Help.....

[johnny55]

Hello
I'm getting tired of my Ford F100 1970 that only malfunctioning all the time. Now I really need you everyone's help so that I get Ford to work again. 1. What is this thick cable that is black with a red stripe in to? How does it work? Can I remove it completely? See Figure 1.
I've put a fuse of 25 amps as you see in picture 2. I've done it when there was a thick cable that burned up 2 months ago, and the car would not start at all. I removed the burned cable and put in a fuse holder that just passed the 15-ampere fuse and broke all the time. I could start the car, turn off the ignition and then start again and then went fuse broken. But now sits 25 amperes fuse in. Ford did not start yesterday and I made enough out of my new battery. So now the charging. It feels like it's any cable or something wrong in this connection between the starter solenoid and the voltage regulator. So please come with tips.

[johnny55]

more

[sargentrs]

You've got a bit of a challenge on your hands for sure. The only black/red wire in that region is actually supposed to be the ground wire from the "G" terminal on the alternator to a mounting screw on the voltage regulator. Don't immediately go and move it though until you sort all of this out. Start with this diagram http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... rging2.jpg In the upper left area is the voltage reg, solenoid, alternator, etc. Cut all of the tape off that bundling all those wires together and spread them out so you can trace them. Don't be so concerned about color codes on the wires, you never know what a previous owner may have done. Do your best to get all of the wires connected back to the proper locations and then you can determine which circuits are failing.

[johnny55]

Thanks Sargentrs

Okay if I now choose to replace all the cables to the new, so I will not have the same color and the same thickness of them new leads. The big thick black with a red stripe in feels very strange that it is and go to the generator and then to a thin to solenoid where it is paired with another thin cable blue, yellow and black that goes to the fuse holder. (See photo) Maybe I need to replace the harness connecktor new. I can not get it together ?? Having looked at the chart and see where the cables should go but there is nothing about the thickness of the cables. In my Ford cables are of slightly different thicknesses and colors. Would have an easier explanation or drawing how it must be linked. The've worked with this link which exists now and it starts but when it got a little cold so have the battery charged out and the fuse has gone even fuse in the fuse box inside the car? The car starts and I shut off. Starts again and the fuse has blown ?? I think there must well be current on the cable with fuse holder that goes together with the thick black cable red and the other blue, black, which also goes to the voltage regulator ??? This feels very hard right now to get it together.

[johnny55]

Now I tried to see how some cables go ??? Do not become wiser in this now hehehe
I have ordered this (see picture 5) and my beautiful description of the cable hehe. Now I saw that there were only three pins ändvänds my voltage regulator? See picture. But how shall I best connect all this now? Have tried to read the chart that I received but is not wiser

[johnny55]

I will buy new cables, and try to connecting on

[sargentrs]

Here's a good reference for the wire sizes. Labels and colors miget not match but the descriptions are accurate enough to lead you in the right direction. http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... -chart.gif

[johnny55]

Thanks again Sargentrs

Very well now I know the wire size  
A stupid question maybe but there are cables that are as kind as hedges of any kind ??? Thinking on my thick black cable that is black with a red stripe in? still can not understand why you put in such a cable. It is certainly original cable. Here I'm used to putting a fuse holder with the right amperage Now if the cables get hot and so on. Do you think I should cut all the cables and try to connect with new cables ?? I will buy new cables at the end of the week and a new mount for the cables on my voltage regulator. But I need a fuse holder on any cables ?? Do you understand how I think if they can or can become hot ??
I do not have so much experience of these beautiful old cars but I do not give up if there is a problem I want to solve it through. Do my Ford F100 is a great and beautiful car. Here in Sweden it is still winter and cold and I have no garage but I will still try to fix some of Ford. Longing for spring and get out and run.

[sargentrs]

Here's a '70 diagram. http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... master.jpg I had given you the '69 version because it had the wire colors on it and the '70 doesn't. Originally, the only fuse was a fusible link from the alternator to the solenoid, about the same place as you have that inline fuse. It is shown on the '70 diagram in same region I mentioned before. I wouldn't be concerned with replacing all of the wires as long as they appeared to be in good condition, not burnt or too many splices/repairs. You can check them with an Ohm test on a voltmeter to see if they're allowing a good flow of current. The biggest thing is just to make sure all of the wires are connected to the right place. From looking at your photos, I have my doubts that is the case.

[sargentrs]

Can you post a good photo of the back of your alternator that shows what terminals you have?

[johnny55]

Hi Sargentrs
Here is a picture of my alternator.
I have purchased a new renovated from the United States that are the same model as this.

[johnny55]

Now I looked at the wiring diagram and I will not wiser ... .suck
my voltage regulator so it will only 4 cables, 2 yellow, one orange and one green with a red stripe.
A hole - pin empty ?? In all the wiring diagram is used all four outputs of the voltage regulator but with other colors switched on but not in mine. On my so use only three exits and it has worked without problems for 1 year but not now. I burned a fuse link that goes from starter solenoid but where I now I have 25 ampere fuse holder. For a while it worked fine but the car then came all wrong. The car starts and when I turn off and to start again the fuse in the fuse holder is broken
This does not happen always, but very often. I want to try to connect everything to the new so I do not get it together. So I need help
Now I just wait for my battery gets charged again I pulled out all the power when I tried to get it going

[sargentrs]

I would go ahead and rewire the voltage regulator and alternator back to where they belong. If you can find a voltage regulator plug in a junk yard, that has all four wires intact, cut the wires leaving plenty of wire and start with that. Any Ford car/truck from the 70's - 80's should have it. The 1st prong on the left of the VR goes to wire # 904 which goes to the 2 prong plug. This was originally an 18 Ga green wire with a red stripe. The 2 prong plug should be coming out of the taped up wiring harness on your inner fender. The 2nd terminal on your VR should go to wire #152 which was originally a 16 Ga yellow wire. This wire will join with wire #38 which connects to the "B" terminal on your alternator. Wire # 38 was originally an 8 Ga black wire with a yellow stripe. You splice #152 to #38 and from there install your inline fuse (7 amp?) and then to the battery side of the solenoid. The 3rd terminal of your VR goes to the top right "S" terminal of your alternator. This was originally a white wire with a black stripe, probably 12-14 Ga. The last terminal of your VR, the one that's missing, is wire #35 and goes to the FLD terminal on your alternator (between the "B" and "G" terminals). This was originally a 16 Ga orange wire. Until you get this area correct, you will continue to struggle.

[johnny55]

Thank you so much for all your help sargentrs

I will try to order a new VR plug as on the picture up there. Here in Sweden there is no scrap buying parts (junkyard) for old cars. So it must be to be ordered from a shop.
I have purchased a new alternator, new voltage regulator, new starter solenoid and battery. All started when a fuse link burned up when the battery terminals were reversed ... .suck. (My fault)
The strange thing is that the car has worked well in the summer with these cables connections that now exist and only 3 inputs on the Voltage regulator?? I will try to strip the wires and see how they go again.
When I look at your cable chart so would all of my cables to be wrong and nothing would work. But it has it's done before??? Is it worth to disconnect all the cables and start afresh? Lay new cables for the wiring diagram?
I know it goes three cables down to my alternator and it is BAT FLD and a ground, and it has and works.
What could be wrong?
Here in Sweden I can not buy Fuse link cables so I may use a fuse holder with a loose fuse in.
Yes, you probably understand that I do not become wiser now hahaha

[sargentrs]

I believe the 3 wire vs 4 wire connection has something to do with a "voltage sensing"circuit. This circuit is to signal the alternator when to operate based the load requirements during operation. Older alternators like ours, 45 amp or 65 amp, only produce enough current to run basic operating functions required by the engine and electrical system. This is why you may see that your headlights dim when you're just idling at a red light and get brighter as your rpms increase. If you add an aftermarket stereo or amplifier your electrical needs increase depending on the load placed on the alternator. The 4th wire, labeled "I" on the VR, senses this increased demand and tells your alternator it needs to produce more amperage. The stock OEM alternators are only capable of so much which is why many people convert to a 90-130 amp alternator system capable of producing much more amperage than the stock configuration. I order to function, you really only need the 3 terminals on the VR labeled "S", "F" and "B". The "S" (or "A") terminal on the VR goes to the (S)tator terminal on the alternator, the "F" goes to the FLD terminal on the alternator, and the "B" goes to the BAT terminal. Some good reading to help educate you on voltage regulator and alternator theory. Mostly directed toward GM and Mopar but theory applies to Ford products also. http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech ... orks.shtml and http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech ... sing.shtml