1967 F250 EZ wiring questions.

[DB1996]

So I have a standard 12 circuit harness from EZ and I was wondering if anyone can fill me in on how they wired the neutral safety switch. Also how they wired their tail lights and reverse lights specifically how they incorporated the flasher. The lights were already wired when it came to me. I have no diagrams from EZ only factory diagrams from here. The truck is an automatic btw. Thanks in advance.

[Canonman67]

If your truck is like my '70 the rear emergency flashers are tied to the lead from the brake light switch and go into the turn signal switch. The front flashers are run from the switch to each individual light. Tail lights come off the headlight switch. Neutral safety switch, I don't have one but I have the circuit that goes from the ignition to the starter relay on one of the small terminals, I don't remember which one, sorry. I'm using a KwikWire harness and just finished the turn signals and ignition today. Good luck and please share some pictures of your project.

[DB1996]

Thanks for the reply Cannonman67. I got the neutral safety switch worked out. I'm trying to start the truck and I'm getting nothing. I have 12 volts at the switch and twelve out of the fuse block, to one side of the ballast resistor and on the other side I have 6 volts. I have a wire going to the coil from the I post on the solenoid like it used to. I have 6 volts there instead of 12. And on the coil I have just the 6 volts. I took the ballast resistor out and have 12 volts everywhere but I still cant start the truck. What did I do wrong? It's probably something super simple. Any help is appreciated.

[Canonman67]

If you're using points you should have less voltage at the coil. I don't have anything here but if I remember correctly you should take off before the resistor to the solenoid. Hooray, I found the diagram and I'm actually right. http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... gauges.jpg The wire numbers you want to follow are 16A and 262. Hope this solves your problem.

[DB1996]

Hey Cannonman. Again, thank you for the help. I have it similar to the diagram. I have a ballast resistor inline from the ignition switch to drop the voltage to the coil (16A)and the wire from the solenoid (262) terminated at the coil with the coil wire. I read 6 volts at the solenoid also. Shouldn't it be 12? I thought that the purpose of 262 was to get the coil the full 12 volts while cranking? Is that right?

[DB1996]

So I remembered that when I measured at the ignition switch on the coil wire it had power only when turned to start and the wire that goes to the neutral safety switch was hot in the run position. Oops. Swapped those and BAM! Nothing happened.....

[carnuck]

The "I" terminal on the solenoid is what fed the coil full power when cranking. Your resistor may not have power at both sides when the key is on.

[DB1996]

I did have power at both sides of the resistor that's part of what was confusing. I got it started. I changed up how it was wired and got the solenoid to engage so I started checking out power on all sides of the solenoid and it was 9 volts. The battery had 12.3 volts so it was a little low. I had another battery that was at 12.6 volts, put that in and had 12 volts everywhere and it fired right up. Now on to lights and gauges. Thanks for the help Cannonman and carnuck. I'm sure I'll run into a few more issues before this is over so you will probably hear from me again. Haha.

[Canonman67]

That's why we're all here.

[carnuck]

PS: If you have an ammeter in the dash, check it for corrosion on the wire terminals. One of the 2 middle wires on the 4 wire voltage regulator plug like to corrode and burn off, leaving you without a charging system that fully charges too. I got a '66 Fairlane and several other Fords in the past with that problem. New alternator wouldn't charge, so a new regulator is put in. It works for awhile, then it doesn't. (took me 3 tries to figure it out the first time)