Need Your Advice and Experience on Adding Air Conditioning

[68RGR]

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I am planning to add air conditioning to my '68 Ranger with a regular cab.

It has never had air conditioning - Factory, dealer or otherwise.

My goals:

1. Have enough capacity to be cold on even the hottest day.

2. To install it myself with the least amount of frustration, time and expense.

3. To have a setup that I can depend on.

I do have a '69 parts truck that had air. It has no compressor but the brackets, idler pulleys, etc are there. To use the under hood parts, the alternator will have to be mounted low on the passenger side. I've looked for a way to run the power steering pump off the second groove in the compressor pulley. But, there must be a problem with that setup because I don't recall seeing one like that.

I want to avoid using the glovebox-eliminating evaporator from the '69 even if it does work. I want an under dash evaporator due to the least frustration, time, etc goals and because I can live with separate systems for heating and cooling.

Years ago, I had a '69 Ranger that had an evaporator that hugged the bottom of the dash and was "fattest" in the center of the dash, if I recall correctly. It used R-12 and would literally spit small ice pellets at the center seat passenger. That is what I'd like to have - A sleet machine in my truck. Well, I can do without the ice pellets but you get my drift. If the coil is close to freezing, I'll be happy!

Maybe something like this one from Old Air - http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/1 ... -4501.html

Or, this one from Nostalgic Air - http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air-co ... uck-91.php

Or, something you suggest.

I'd like to use a Sanden type compressor and plan to use an adapter mount for it. I've seen all sorts of air conditioning setups in bumpsides over the past few months online and have quite a few photos.

Both types of refrigerant, gauges, a hose crimper and a vacuum pump are standing by. So, I'm ready to make some component decisions.

My main questions are:

1. If you've done this, what components did you use and why?

2. I'd like to keep the engine bay as "clean" as possible. How did you route the refrigerant hoses to the evaporator?

3. Is there a best, easier or simpler choice for the location where the hoses go through the firewall? I understand that this could depend on the evaporator used. I'd like to avoid routing hoses through the fender well.

4. If I go with R-134a, should I get a larger condenser or not? (Remember - COLD ON THE HOTTEST DAY!)

5. Ford seemed to prefer placing the drier beside the condenser. Is this the best location and why or why not?

6. What should I look out for and what should I avoid?

7. What do you think of the u-bend-it aluminum tubing for use in tight spots where using a hose would be difficult?

What would you suggest based on your experience?

[tbone6]

Hey Bill, I am in the process of adding a/c to my 72. I am going with the mini gen2 (A/C/Heat/Defrost) from vintage air. I am using this system in order to have the least intrusive evaporator. I will be losing most of my glove box, however.

As near as I can gather, the drier can go pretty much anywhere as long as it is in the high pressure side.

My engine bay hoses will be routed as follows; I will use hard lines from the evaporator out through the firewall for both lines, as near to the stock heater hose location as possible. I am doing this in order to be able to make the sharp turns, as you discussed in your post. I will then run the line (low pressure) to the compressor hugging the firewall/cowl going towards the drivers side. Somewhere near the drivers side valve cover, it will turn towards the front of the engine and into the compressor, transitioning from hard line to rubber hose at some point yet to be determined.

The high pressure hard line will route through the firewall and hug the inside (engine bay side) of the inner fender and forward to the radiator support, where it will pick up another hard line that goes through the radiator support, near the horn, turns toward the drivers side and follows the top of the support to the drier (this second hard line, as well as the condenser and drier I have already installed). The drier is mounted in the top left corner of the condenser. I am undecided on using rubber hose between the evap and condenser, I figure the fewer unions the better, but I am concerned about movement. I think as long as I don't fasten the hard lines too rigidly they can flex a bit and be okay (I removed the voltage regulator and associated wiring and replaced them with a one wire alternator, as a result, I had room near the horn).

The Line from the compressor to the condenser consists of hard line from the condenser through the rad support (again done to make a tight turn) and then hose from there to the compressor.

I have found the u-bend-it aluminum lines to be easy to work with. I had never worked with it before, and it does take a little practice to get the bends in the right place. I am not satisfied with my bending job on the line from the drier to the condenser, as it was a short run (12" if I recall) that just bent into a U shape. It came out kinda caddie wompas. I may replace it or re-bend sometime in the future, but it is sealed tight. The other two, however, came out very nice (IMO).

My condenser is 252 square inches, which is a bit larger than the minimum called for by Vintage Air for their Mini Gen2, and as large as would fit in front of my radiator. I am in Florida, after all...

The reason I already installed the condenser and drier was because I already had the front end apart and wanted to get it all in before I reassembled it. My Evaporator and compressor purchase are on hold awaiting funding.

I will be using a Sanden compressor and this bracket from ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/121132878160?ss ... 1436.l2649 ). The bracket is a bit more expensive than others, but I think it looks ten times better.

I am undecided on vents, I want to get the evap temp installed to see what I have for room, and go from there.

[68RGR]

That sounds like it is going to be a very clean and well thought out setup. Thanks for the report on the u-bend-it lines. I have a tubing bender but it may not be large enough to handle that tubing. So, I'll have to get the proper bender.

What diameter(s) of the aluminum tubing did you use?

The 252 sq in condenser sounds like a 14 by 18. I want one that is large enough to work well but not too large - if that is possible.

My truck is a driver so I've decided to go with an under dash evaporator because it _should_ be easier to install. Plus, I liked the one I had years ago.

The compressor mount that you linked should look great.

How are you handling the pulleys and belts? I've seen some fairly costly bracket and pulley kits online. But, my needs and budget rule them out. I hope to be able to utilize the brackets and pulleys from my parts truck. But, if there is something better, I'd like to consider it.

[sargentrs]

I don't believe I caught what engine you have in your truck. I'm putting a 351w back in mine but the same applies to a 302. I went to the salvage yard and took everything off of the front of a late 80s F150 with a 5.8L in it. Picked up all the brackets and pulleys for newer model a/c, p/s, cooling fan and alternator components complete in a serpentine configuration. Just a thought.

[tbone6]

Tubing sizes are #10 from evap to comp, #8 from comp to cond, and #6 from cond to drier and drier to evap.

For bending I used a tool for the small lines and the spring type for the larger lines. The tool works great, the springs worked okay. If you can find a tubing bender for the larger lines I am sure it would turn out better. I can post up some pics of what I have if you want to see em. It will probable be next week before I can get to them.

You are correct on the 14 x 18 condenser. The size of the condenser I decided on was taken from a chart or formula I found somewhere on the web. I will try to locate it, but a quick search for it should give you an idea of what size you can get away with. It may have come straight from Vintage air. I have been running with the condenser in place for a few months now with no radiator overheat issues at all, temp has stayed constant even in the "Florida in August" heat. Not sure what will happen when I get the system up and running freon through it, but I don't anticipate any issues. My suggestion is go with as big as you can fit in...

I use my truck mainly when the wife and I are at the farm, so I can take it down for major work without too much worry. If you are driving it daily, I can see why you would go for ease of install. I debated this route myself, but in the end decided to go with the "cram it under the dash" method.

For the belts, I have a two groove waterpump pulley and a two groove pulley (not installed yet) on the crank. That should handle the compressor without any idlers. The Sanden compressor can rotate either direction, and my alternator does the same (see attached pic), so that is not a concern. If I ever switch to power steering (unlikely), I will have to change it up. I would probably go with Randy's idea on the serpentine system. If I could afford it, I would go with the March Motors system, but at $610 clams, it is down near the bottom on my priority list. Randy's would look more in tune with a stock system, and cost would be much more in line with my budget.

My engine is a stock 302 with a few minor mods (alternator, HEI distro, etc.). I will, in the near future, be pulling the engine and rebuilding it to have a sleeper truck. I should end up in the 300+ range on horsepower, backed by a TKO 500 tranny, but that is a whole nother story... I guess I should start a thread, but I am kinda put off by the super build threads that some have been running. They are all such great threads, I don't think I could live up

Mini Gen II Installation r2_01.jpg

Mini Gen II Installation r2_02.jpg

[68RGR]

All of the F100s I've owned have had 360, 2 barrel engines. Guess I am in a rut. But, that's fine with me.

Thanks for the suggestion. In keeping with my basic principle of "simple", I'm gonna have to pass on the serpentine belt system. The ones on my "normal" vehicles seem to work well. But, I want to get to COLD as simply as possible. Would the belt system from a 302/351 be compatible with an FE block? Never thought about that or checked on it.

The power steering belt does complicate things. The crankshaft pulley has three grooves. If I could move the alternator forward in order to drive it from the unused front groove on the crank pulley, I might have something to work with without idler pulleys. But, moving the alternator and/or its pulley that far forward could be a bit of a problem. Anyone tried using a single belt for the alternator and power steering pump? That would mean moving the alt forward but only half as much. I suppose doing that might put too much load on the belt and/or its driving pulley. It would decrease the contact area for the belt on the crank pulley. And, it would complicate getting the proper tension to keep the belt from slipping on the power steering pulley. OK, talked myself out of that idea.

The parts truck used the front groove on the crank pulley along with two idler pulleys to drive the compressor. So far, that seems to be my simplest option unless someone gives me a better idea.

[pincheweddo]

I don't believe I caught what engine you have in your truck. I'm putting a 351w back in mine but the same applies to a 302. I went to the salvage yard and took everything off of the front of a late 80s F150 with a 5.8L in it. Picked up all the brackets and pulleys for newer model a/c, p/s, cooling fan and alternator components complete in a serpentine configuration. Just a thought.

Sarge,

have been looking at this today. Do you know what the year ranges on the F150's had this set up?

[sargentrs]

1987 - 1992 F150's. My 351W is a 1985 casting block so I started there. I chose 1987 as my pattern for selecting parts when I go to a parts store looking for anything engine related. Don't forget, its a reverse rotation water pump so the timing cover is different, too. They are available aftermarket, reasonably priced, if you don't feel like pulling the balancer to get one.

[pincheweddo]

1987 - 1992 F150's. My 351W is a 1985 casting block so I started there. I chose 1987 as my pattern for selecting parts when I go to a parts store looking for anything engine related. Don't forget, its a reverse rotation water pump so the timing cover is different, too. They are available aftermarket, reasonably priced, if you don't feel like pulling the balancer to get one.

I have just started trying to wrap my head around how I was going to mount a compressor. This seems like the most inexpensive solution. That balancer could be a whipping in a junk yard. Thanks for the tip.

[pincheweddo]

I found this and it helps understand quite a bit about serp brackets and such.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10938 ... iries.html

[flyboy2610]

If the parts truck and your driver have the same engine, remove ALL the brackets and pulleys (every one of them) and put them on your driver. Don't try to mix and match pulleys. That leads to headaches, ulcers, and endless frustration. Don't ask how I know this. Basically you are swapping all the AC parts to your driver's engine. It's a system, so install the system. I plan to install air on my 69, and I have the inside unit you linked to from Old AIR Products. I will be using a Sanden style compressor and this adaptor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/York-to-Sanden- ... 2c71533abf

Going with this compressor style: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Air-Comp ... 04&vxp=mtr

I don't know when I'll get to it, but I'll git 'er done!

[68RGR]

Thanks Red - Like I said, need your experience! Sounds like you have been there and done this.

Both trucks have 360s so I will move all the brackets, pulleys, etc when (if) the time comes.

But, earlier, I ran across this:

http://www.vintageair.com/Instructions2013/901104.pdf

Check out the lower portion of the page where the belt routing is shown. Anyone used this setup with power steering? If this works well, I'd be willing to spend $109 to avoid moving all of the other stuff and relocating the alternator to the lower position.

Thanks,

Bill