Turn signals, Hazards, Breaks, and Dash HELP!

[Youngkidoldtruck]

My Dash lights, turn signals, break lights, backup lights, and hazards are all not working, and they were all working perfectly fine a few days ago, and they all suddenly stopped working at about the same time. I checked the fuses and saw the fuse marked "Emerg & Stop" was broken, i checked the size of the fuse and saw it was a 14A fuse, i knew the turn signal fuse was the same size, so i switched them around, but the lights still wernt working, and when i put the fuse back, the turn sigs didnt work either (i checked the fuse with a meter and its still good) i checked the wiring which dragged on until night, i tried to turn on my dash lights, and it wouldnt turn on either and the fuse labled "dash" doesn't appear to be broken, can i get some help please?

[Youngfordkid]

i had the same problem on my 67. here is what i discovered-

1. check the fuse block for corrosion. mine was so corroded that the wires broke off the back. replaced that and turn signals came back along with brakes.

2. head light switch. this will control dash lights, and if the rehostat is broken, the dash lights wont work. replaced mine, all the lights started working.

3. it wont hurt to get a can of contact cleaner and clean all the plugs and connectors in the wiring harness.

good luck and post what you find!

[basketcase0302]

If you put what year and model truck you have in your signature at the bottom of your posts it will help many here-to help you. Here's a 69' fuse panel schematic that might help. I posted it as I remembered my the brake/emer fuse shouldn't be 14A-it should be a 20A:
http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... epanel.jpg
If you have a good voltage meter, I'd first start with checking power at the fuse panel on all the fuses. Turn and brake more often than not wind up being the switch in the column, but let's make sure your sending power to the switch first.
And the instrument cluster lighting would be a separate issue, it is the very small tiny fuse in the panel.

[Youngkidoldtruck]

If you put what year and model truck you have in your signature at the bottom of your posts it will help many here-to help you. Here's a 69' fuse panel schematic that might help. I posted it as I remembered my the brake/emer fuse shouldn't be 14A-it should be a 20A:
http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... epanel.jpg
If you have a good voltage meter, I'd first start with checking power at the fuse panel on all the fuses. Turn and brake more often than not wind up being the switch in the column, but let's make sure your sending power to the switch first.
And the instrument cluster lighting would be a separate issue, it is the very small tiny fuse in the panel.

Thanks, the blinkers work now, well, except the right front one, for some reason it isnt flashing and i checked the bulb, i think i have to replace the light housing itself

[basketcase0302]

Thanks, the blinkers work now, well, except the right front one, for some reason it isnt flashing and i checked the bulb, i think i have to replace the light housing itself

I'd love to get a bunch of folks together here and sit down with voltage meters-they can save you so...much time and money when used properly. I'd check for power to the light socket, (it unplugs right behind the assembly) before buying a new socket for it. It could still be losing power to the socket in several places.

[Youngkidoldtruck]

Thanks, the blinkers work now, well, except the right front one, for some reason it isnt flashing and i checked the bulb, i think i have to replace the light housing itself

I'd love to get a bunch of folks together here and sit down with voltage meters-they can save you so...much time and money when used properly. I'd check for power to the light socket, (it unplugs right behind the assembly) before buying a new socket for it. It could still be losing power to the socket in several places.

i checked cut the wires And stripped the ends, they look black and fried...

[basketcase0302]

i checked cut the wires And stripped the ends, they look black and fried...

It's never a good thing to see dark discolored wire like that. It typically shows a overcurent situation has occurred The only way to where the bulb pulled too much power for one reason or another. I would look at the ground wiring in that area real...close! The way to correct it-is to cut and splice new wire into the harness to replace the burnt wire. You can follow that one wire and try bending it slightly back and forth along the length, (starting at the light socket that doesn't work) to determine where the bad/burnt wiring stops at. Hoping it's not bad all the way back to the cab. I like soldering and using heat shrink tubing for splicing into wiring like this. Chances are that you'll never have to go back and revisit the splices ever again if it's soldered and protected with heat shrink tubing.
Here's another cheap tool that works in a pinch if you don't have a good voltage meter:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=12% ... ht&_sop=15
The good thing about test lights is that you can pierce the outside insulation of a wire to test for voltage, (without having to cut into the wiring).

[basketcase0302]

You might also want to post a "wanted-used turn signal assembly" here to save some money rather than buy a new one, (if the socket is bad in the assembly):
http://www.fordification.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=13
I would bet someone here has one for a much better price than new. And most folks here are honest.
Although there was one "playa" that was on here a few months ago! Last I heard, he had tar and feathers on him running around the net somewhere still? Probably over there on the "dark side"...

[Youngkidoldtruck]

You might also want to post a "wanted-used turn signal assembly" here to save some money rather than buy a new one, (if the socket is bad in the assembly):
http://www.fordification.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=13
I would bet someone here has one for a much better price than new. And most folks here are honest.
Although there was one "playa" that was on here a few months ago! Last I heard, he had tar and feathers on him running around the net somewhere still? Probably over there on the "dark side"...

its all fixed now, thanks, turns out the wires became fried somewhere along the line, i rreplaced them, they work fine now

[basketcase0302]