Ignition Switch Problem??

[LuvMyScamper]

Hi folks,

We had a no-start problem this morning on our '71 F350 (w/390 auto). Turned the key, thought we heard the solenoid click once, then nothing. Turned the key to accessory, and the radio wouldn't work either. We had a new solenoid already so put that on in case it was that, but it wasn't. I fiddled with the wires going to the ignition switch, thinking one of them may have been loose. When I tried this, the radio started when turned to accessory and the truck started right up. Drove it once, turned it off, and it restarted no problem. Drove it home, shut it off, and went to restart it immediately and we're back to the no-start problem. I fiddled with the wires again but that didn't work this time.

Do you think this could be a bad ignition switch?

Cindy

[Kurt Combs]

What do you mean, "fiddled with the wires"?

[sargentrs]

They're available at your local parts store and inexpensive to replace. I'd do it anyway.

[LuvMyScamper]

What do you mean, "fiddled with the wires"?

I just pushed on the wires that go into the switch.

We ordered one from the local parts store, it was only $20.00. Is it easy to change? Are there any tricks I should know about?

[sargentrs]

No tricks. The bezel ring can be a little stubborn to get off the front. They make a special tool for it but I just use a small flat head screwdriver and tap it easily around till I can turn it by hand. Be gentle working the old plug off of the back. They can be brittle. Wiggle and pull slowly and evenly. Try to resist the urge to stick a screwdriver in it and pry it up. Ask me how I know Btw, try to start your truck with the new switch before you mount it back in the dashboard. That way you won't have to repeat the process if that wasn't the problem and you'll have it out for further troubleshooting. Also ask me how I know about that too

[LuvMyScamper]

No tricks. The bezel ring can be a little stubborn to get off the front. They make a special tool for it but I just use a small flat head screwdriver and tap it easily around till I can turn it by hand. Be gentle working the old plug off of the back. They can be brittle. Wiggle and pull slowly and evenly. Try to resist the urge to stick a screwdriver in it and pry it up. Ask me how I know

Cool, thanks. So the bezel ring just threads on? And once that is off, the switch comes out from under the dash, and then I pull off the plug (gently), and then plug it into the new switch. What about the key cylinder (or whatever that is called). Does it come out of the old switch and get put into the new one? If that's all there is to it, I might be able to handle this...

[sargentrs]

Yep, it's just a threaded ring. To remove the key cylinder, first DISCONNECT the battery. You don't want any power going to the switch. Then put the key in and turn the switch to the ACCessory position. Straighten out a paper clip, or small diameter wire, and stick in the small hole beside the key. Turn the key counterclockwise and just pull the cylinder out. Installation is the reverse of removal. I'm sure you'll do just fine. That's why we like these trucks. So simple even a man can do it.

[LuvMyScamper]

Yep, it's just a threaded ring. To remove the key cylinder, first DISCONNECT the battery. You don't want any power going to the switch. Then put the key in and turn the switch to the ACCessory position. Straighten out a paper clip, or small diameter wire, and stick in the small hole beside the key. Turn the key counterclockwise and just pull the cylinder out. Installation is the reverse of removal. I'm sure you'll do just fine. That's why we like these trucks. So simple even a man can do it.

Thanks Randy!

[basketcase0302]

Cindy,
I'd check your voltage to the coil when this happens first, as there are a few other things that will give you this same symptom!
What you've described sounds to me like a typical coil issue.

[LuvMyScamper]

Cindy,
I'd check your voltage to the coil when this happens first, as there are a few other things that will give you this same symptom!
What you've described sounds to me like a typical coil issue.

We are actually about to have a Pertronix Ignition system installed, with the new Flamethrower II coil. But would a problem with the coil cause the radio not to work when the key is turned to accessory? This is what made me think the problem was in the ignition switch.

[mrollings53]

It depends. If it's a stock radio then it should work when the ignition is in the accessory position. If it's not stock, then it would depend on how well it was installed. If the radio is the only thing that doesn't work then I would look into it's wiring. If the cigar lighter, heater, lights, etc. don't work either then it's the ignition switch.

[LuvMyScamper]

Well it wasn't the ignition switch, but that was an easy swap thanks to Randy's instructions and I now have spare in case it ever fails in the future. So then as others have suggested I wondered about the coil. It looked pretty ancient. I had another one (old-looking too) that was under the seat in the truck when we got it, so we took the old one off and tested them both with the multimeter and they're both bad (if I checked them right). Now we have a truck that won't start, waiting to get new electronic ignition installed with a Flamethrower II coil, but we can't get it to our mechanic.

Question - can the Flamethrower II be put on WITHOUT the Pertronix ignition just to get it to our mechanic (5mins away) or will that destroy it (or something else in the ignition system)? It sucks if we have to go buy a new coil just to get the truck to our mechanic.

TIA,
Cindy

[basketcase0302]

Cindy,
Sorry the switch didn't get it running. When you say you've tested the other coil you have-were you able to actually try it to see if it would start the truck? Most times when the coils on our trucks break down-heat will be the biggest contributor to them not working, (they'll work a lot of times when they're cold-to move the truck). Ask TNIcewolf about my scenario a few months ago.
And yes, the Flamethrower II will work fine (without the Pertronix). Actually should see quite a difference with the hotter coil in your performance.

[TNIceWolf]

Jeff is correct in his description of how a coil CAN act. They can be pretty unpredictable. He had a very nice looking coil on his truck when I first saw it and I was somewhat dismayed that my run of the mill stock parts coil just didnt measure up looks wise. A couple of hours later Jeffs coil failed. And we wound up replacing it on the side of the road with an old spare he had hidden away in a stowage box. Heck.....try the old hidden coil............what do you have to lose?

Edit....I am sorrry ....its late and I am tired. Did you mean the truck wouldnt start.....or did you mean it wouldnt crank?. Kind of a difference there.

[LuvMyScamper]

Jeff is correct in his description of how a coil CAN act. They can be pretty unpredictable. He had a very nice looking coil on his truck when I first saw it and I was somewhat dismayed that my run of the mill stock parts coil just didnt measure up looks wise. A couple of hours later Jeffs coil failed. And we wound up replacing it on the side of the road with an old spare he had hidden away in a stowage box. Heck.....try the old hidden coil............what do you have to lose?

Edit....I am sorrry ....its late and I am tired. Did you mean the truck wouldnt start.....or did you mean it wouldnt crank?. Kind of a difference there.

No problem... The truck wouldn't crank - we just get a click when we turn the key.

Here's exactly what happened:

1. Came home from a 1400km trip. On the trip, we had two instances of when the truck lost power and backfired into the carb (or so it sounded). It did that once the first day, and once the second day, then never did it again the rest of the trip (3 more days). We know the truck needs a tune-up - we have all the parts, including the electronic ignition, which was supposed to be done before our trip but our mechanic ran out of time.

2. The day after we got home from the trip, we attempted to start it to take it to the dump station to empty the black tank. It cranked for about 10 seconds with no hint of starting, which was odd, then he let off the key to give the starter a rest, then he tried again. This time, just a click - no cranking at all. It sounded like the click came from under the hood on the passenger side, so we thought the solenoid just went. We had a brand new one as a spare, so we but that on but same problem. When trying to start and we just get the click, no accessories work either when the key is turned to the accessory position. I pushed on the plug to the ignition switch, thinking it may have been loose, and tried to start it again. This time, it started, and we drove it to the dump station and shut it off. After we finished, it started up again without problems and we drove it home. When my hubby backed it into the driveway and shut it off, he realized it was parked over too far and got back in to move it. Turned the key and click. No accessories again either.

3. Put on a new ignition switch since it was cheap and easy, but that didn't fix it.

4. Put on the old coil, which according to my multimeter test was bad, but wanted to try it anyway in case I did the test wrong. Before trying to start it, I turned the key to accessory and the radio worked. Then I tried to start it, and just got the click again, no cranking. I turned it back to accessory, and the accessories no longer worked.

So there's the whole problem in detail. Since I already have the Flamethrower II coil, I was wondering if I could put it on just to get the truck to our mechanic 5 mins away. I know you're not supposed to use the coils with points ignition, but does anyone know if this would work for a 5-min drive?