So here are a couple issues, First i took off my instrument cluster cause it needed a make-over and i noticed random wires cut or with a butt connector and seems like a missing wires too.
First. This wire is CUT and added a butt connector that go nowhere.
This one is Also CUT, it has two wires coming down to one.
This one is also CUT but is connected to what the that button looking thing to the left
This one is Guess...CUT just comes from the braid of wires behind it.
This one isnt cut but when i disconnected everything this was tucked behind some other wires.
Just there with a boot.
Missing wires
Sooooo. Thats it haha. ANy help is much appreciated. Thanks a bunch.
the picture showing the boot with two wires going into it and the picture showing a three holed plug with only one being used seems like these are power or grounds for plug in options like a cargo light or gas tank sending unit switch is my guess. the ones that are acually cut with wire showing should be traced with a wiring diagram since they look factory color coded to make sure they are goign where they need to be or blocked off or removed if they are added in.
Rich
1973 f350 super c/s 460/c6 22k orig miles
1972 f350 srw crewcab special 390
1972 f250 4x4 sport custom 390fe Red
1972 f250 4x4 custom 360 FE " Ranger Ric"
1972 f250 4x4 custom 84k og miles 390
1971 f250 4x4 sport custom 56k og miles. 360
1970 f250 4x4 428 fe hp60 205 d60
Dont eat yellow snow.....
drizzie27 wrote:So here are a couple issues, First i took off my instrument cluster cause it needed a make-over and i noticed random wires cut or with a butt connector and seems like a missing wires too.
First. This wire is CUT and added a butt connector that go nowhere.
[ Image ]
This one is Also CUT, it has two wires coming down to one.
[ Image ]
This one is also CUT but is connected to what the that button looking thing to the left
[ Image ]
The button looking thing is a brake warning light of some kind don't remember exactly, there should a purple wire that goes to the botton also
This one is Guess...CUT just comes from the braid of wires behind it.
[ Image ]
This one isnt cut but when i disconnected everything this was tucked behind some other wires.
[ Image ]
Sooooo. Thats it haha. ANy help is much appreciated. Thanks a bunch.
Don't a have pic to look at on the quote but the black 3 hole plug comes off the main wire from the battery goes to the fuse box. The og./white white should power the windshield wiper sprayer. I don't think anything else is suppose to hook up to it.
The blue/white should go to the cig. lighter.
The brown connector I don't think it was suppose to be connected to anything. The green wires it's hard to tell if they green or green with a color strip. Let me know and I can look at a harness I have a part. The purple/yellow I'm guessing here but look at the instrutment cluster plug and see if there is a cut purple wire there. Again I can check on mine tomorrow and see.
Ok looked at the 2 green wirers again I think po used it as a hot line maybe. Don't think anything is suppose to be connected to it.
Purple/yel I think goes thur the wirer wall and out to the brake sensor. Look at the plugs the go thur the firer wall on drivers side. Also check the wirers out side the firer wall and look for a purple/yel wire
Picture #1 Blue/ Y stripe to horn
#2 Green/Y stripes from door switches to courtesy lights
#3 is it Red/white stripe or Red/Yellow strip? If it was to "the little button thing" it should have been attached to a lamp socket for the brake warning light and should be Red/Y
#4 Red/Y to dimmer switch
#5 Blue/W cigarette lighter
#6 Did the truck have marker lights on top? Even if not that is probably for that purpose and was just not used.
#7 The recepticle with 3 holes and only one wire hooked up I believe that Orange/W stripe wire goes to the windsheild wiper switch
Looks like Rattler ID'ed the blue/white as going to your cigarette lighter. The 90-degree end of it looks like the connector to my temperature sender/sensor on the top of my engine. However, I'd follow the wiring diagrams before I connected it to the temp probe (I don't remember the color of my temp probe wire, and it's too cold/dark to check right now). You should be able to find a wiring diagram in the tech section of the forum.
Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
Much appreciated rattler, on #6 the PO had a yellow/black maybe yellow/blue wire coming out to the radio. I yanked it cause the wire was all melted and asking for trouble. So there was actually two wires originally but I pulled that one. That brake light warning one is red/yellow. Dimmer switch is that when I rotate the light switch and it dims the lights inside cause that already works? On #2 where is that wire supposed to be connected to cause my light does not turn on when I open my doors. But I also found out that the wire that connects to the boot that has the black/blue wire, it has no power but the boot has power when the truck is turn to the on position or running. And my cigarette light lee is trash the backend just falls off so I gotta figure out how to take it out. Tried taking one from a 76-78 from the junk yard but couldn't figure it out. An no no lights on top.
If #2 is hot when the truck is off, I betcha the PO put in a stereo, and he needed a hot lead to keep power on for his clock and station presets. I think yellow is typically used for that.
Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
Maybe but the radio wasn't working when I got it that's why I just pit in the pioneer. So that makes me wonder what I should go to still or what it can go to.
Typically, radios take two power leads. One goes to the ignition, and allows the radio to be turned on. One goes to "always on" power, which allows the radio to keep its presets and clock, even when the truck is off. This wouldn't be the case for our stock radios, which have mechanical presets (remember when you pulled the button out, then pushed it in, to store your station?). But for aftermarket stuff, you'll need a constant-power source, and that's probably what the yellow is.
Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
I understand what your saying. I have a constant and a hot for my aftermarket already I used a splice connecter from the fuse wire and a black wire that is always hot. I'm just curious if this is supposes to connect to something important or if I can just put a cap on it so it doesn't start a fire.
If you already have a hot, then just cap it off. From the photo, it doesn't look like it goes to anything stock.
Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
colnago wrote:Looks like Rattler ID'ed the blue/white as going to your cigarette lighter. The 90-degree end of it looks like the connector to my temperature sender/sensor on the top of my engine. However, I'd follow the wiring diagrams before I connected it to the temp probe (I don't remember the color of my temp probe wire, and it's too cold/dark to check right now). You should be able to find a wiring diagram in the tech section of the forum.
Joseph
H2O sender has the same 90 degree connector but the wire to it is Red/ W strip.....Blue /W is the lighter
