Basic question on Coil

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robbkramer
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Basic question on Coil

Post by robbkramer »

Greetings; 69 F-250 360 2WD:

Is the + post on the coil connected to the distributor or the lead from the firewall?

Thanks,
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basketcase0302
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Re: Basic question on Coil

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robbkramer on Fri Mar 09, 2012 8:33 pm
Greetings; 69 F-250 360 2WD:

Is the + post on the coil connected to the distributor or the lead from the firewall?

Thanks,
Rob, first off thank you for posting your trucks data! It really helps with getting answers quicker. :wink:
The "+" terminal on your coil gets 12 volts from the ignition switch via the firewall wiring.
The "-" on your coil hooks up to your distributor. :thup:
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
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robbkramer
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Re: Basic question on Coil

Post by robbkramer »

basketcase0302 wrote:
robbkramer on Fri Mar 09, 2012 8:33 pm
Greetings; 69 F-250 360 2WD:

Is the + post on the coil connected to the distributor or the lead from the firewall?

Thanks,
Rob, first off thank you for posting your trucks data! It really helps with getting answers quicker. :wink:
The "+" terminal on your coil gets 12 volts from the ignition switch via the firewall wiring.
The "-" on your coil hooks up to your distributor. :thup:
Excellent. I pulled the distributor to clean and replace a few parts (the coil for one) on the manifold and of course, now the truck won't start when before it did. I'm sure I messed up the timing. Battery is charging now and I'll dive into this tomorrow. Just wasn't sure about those leads! Thanks for the quick response.

r
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basketcase0302
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Re: Basic question on Coil

Post by basketcase0302 »

You'll need to get #1 piston back up to TDC on the compression stroke now to properly "stab" the dizzy.
Bumping the engine over / with the plug out of #1 cylinder and your finger over the plug hole / when you feel pressure stop bumping / then finish turning the engine to TDC by hand if possible until your timing pointer lines up on the TDC mark. :thup:
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
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robbkramer
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Re: Basic question on Coil

Post by robbkramer »

basketcase0302 wrote:You'll need to get #1 piston back up to TDC on the compression stroke now to properly "stab" the dizzy.
Bumping the engine over / with the plug out of #1 cylinder and your finger over the plug hole / when you feel pressure stop bumping / then finish turning the engine to TDC by hand if possible until your timing pointer lines up on the TDC mark. :thup:
Excellent. I'll update tomorrow after I work with it. Does it matter where the rotor points when I reinsert the 'dizzy''--should it be at or near the No. 1 socket? Man, I haven't done this for YEARS!
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basketcase0302
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Re: Basic question on Coil

Post by basketcase0302 »

Rob,
In a "perfect world" rotor button-in relation to cap matters-as far as I know simply for wire routing. You can always change the plug wires around on the dizzy cap once you've got the dizzy "re-stabbed". Seems like I remember doing that a few times also. Make sure you have plenty of travel either way on the dizzy when re-stabbing for timing, (once you have #1 wire identified on the cap). And don't try to force the dizzy in, try turning the rotor button back and forth as well as the dizzy itself while it drops into the hole. They usually never go in where you need them-always seem to be one tooth off-keep trying-you'll eventually get it there! Then reroute the plug wires per firing order for your engine. Sorry but I'm not sure of the firing order for the 360 as I've never owned a book for that engine. :(
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
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robbkramer
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Re: Basic question on Coil

Post by robbkramer »

basketcase0302 wrote:Rob,
In a "perfect world" rotor button-in relation to cap matters-as far as I know simply for wire routing. You can always change the plug wires around on the dizzy cap once you've got the dizzy "re-stabbed". Seems like I remember doing that a few times also. Make sure you have plenty of travel either way on the dizzy when re-stabbing for timing, (once you have #1 wire identified on the cap). And don't try to force the dizzy in, try turning the rotor button back and forth as well as the dizzy itself while it drops into the hole. They usually never go in where you need them-always seem to be one tooth off-keep trying-you'll eventually get it there! Then reroute the plug wires per firing order for your engine. Sorry but I'm not sure of the firing order for the 360 as I've never owned a book for that engine. :(
works like a charm...got her going this afternoon. Will get timing light and fine tune it. Thanks for the assist!
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basketcase0302
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Re: Basic question on Coil

Post by basketcase0302 »

More than welcome! :thup: :)
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
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