Repairing Wiring Harness

[davbell22602]

Someone cut the wires to connector going to the key switch and I need to solder the connector back on the harness. Does anybody know specs for a the wiring harness on a 67 F100 2wd base model 8ft bed? Amps, watts, etc? I know its 12 volts.

[72BahamaBlue]

I think that entire connector is available, new plug and short lenth of wires. Those '67's had faulty switches initially, and replacements were sold with a new connector to splice onto the ignition harness.

LMC catalog, page 129, #31...is that what you need?

[davbell22602]

I think that entire connector is available, new plug and short lenth of wires. Those '67's had faulty switches initially, and replacements were sold with a new connector to splice onto the ignition harness.

LMC catalog, page 129, #31...is that what you need?

No. I just to solder them back together it was cut. Its like someone couldn't get the connector off of the ignition switch.

[basketcase0302]

davbell22602 on Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:26 pm
Someone cut the wires to connector going to the key switch and I need to solder the connector back on the harness. Does anybody know specs for a the wiring harness on a 67 F100 2wd base model 8ft bed? Amps, watts, etc? I know its 12 volts.

I'm doubtful you'll ever see the wattage rating number for our trucks, (I've never seen one). There were simply too many variations, (too many options). Each slightly individual truck, (ie. CS/cab & chassis/F-100) would all have a different electrical consumption. I believe most our trucks came with a standard 45 amp alternator if that helps. Maybe TF or Hawkrod or someone else knows a little more on this too.

Do you just need to know a particular wire size at the ignition switch harness to replace?

[davbell22602]

davbell22602 on Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:26 pm
Someone cut the wires to connector going to the key switch and I need to solder the connector back on the harness. Does anybody know specs for a the wiring harness on a 67 F100 2wd base model 8ft bed? Amps, watts, etc? I know its 12 volts.

I'm doubtful you'll ever see the wattage rating number for our trucks, (I've never seen one). There were simply too many variations, (too many options). Each slightly individual truck, (ie. CS/cab & chassis/F-100) would all have a different electrical consumption. I believe most our trucks came with a standard 45 amp alternator if that helps. Maybe TF or Hawkrod or someone else knows a little more on this too.

Do you just need to know a particular wire size at the ignition switch harness to replace?

I just need to know which type or kind of soldering wire to use.

[71PA_Highboy]

Hmmm... there is a lot of argument on this, but I will provide a semi 'mil-spec' answer.

Never solder wires in environments that are subject to vibration, such as a vehicle, as the wicking of the solder up the wire causes a weak spot on the wire that will cause work cracking of the copper due to said vibration.

The caveat to that is: there are special tools that allow that to be done, but in specialized situations.

Personally, I use butt splices. I work some 'Kopr Shield' (sp?) [Made by Thomas and Betts IIRC'] into the wire, then crimp the wire in, then use a QUALITY sealing heat shrink.

If you are going to solder you want an electronic solder, usually 63% tin (or better) rosin core.


YMMV.

[72BahamaBlue]

What 71PA_Highboy said.

A good mechanical crimp with quality connectors works very well. Aircraft or marine spec butt splices are my favorite, worth the added cost.

Try these:
http://terminaltown.com/Pages/page98.html

[davbell22602]

What 71PA_Highboy said.

A good mechanical crimp with quality connectors works very well. Aircraft or marine spec butt splices are my favorite, worth the added cost.

Try these:
http://terminaltown.com/Pages/page98.html

I gotta order some of those see through butt connectors. Thanks