Turn signal "click"

sublimer · Post by **sublimer** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 6:24 pm

So, whenever I drive my truck I become "that guy" who forgets to turn his turn signal off. This happens for two reasons...

1. When I'm cruising, I can't hear the very quiet "clicking" noise the turn signal makes. Is there a way to make this louder, or are they naturally quiet?
2. Were the 68 Ford F-100's ever have the feature that the signal cancels when you complete the turn like most cars do?

flyboy2610 · Post by **flyboy2610** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 6:48 pm

I can't help you with #1, but the answer to #2 is a definite YES. The cancelling arms inside the turn signal switch have probably broken off. I don't think you can get them separately, you'll have to buy the whole switch.

72BahamaBlue · Post by **72BahamaBlue** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 2:39 am

A new turn signal relay might be louder. I have an electronic relay late 90's, makes a distinct and audible clicking. Some RV, truck and bus relays are even louder.

Mancar1 · Post by **Mancar1** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 7:27 am

This older guy bought a louder turn signal flasher from Napa. I can hear it now. I also replaced the signal cam. Turns off with a left turn, but the right turn arm has already broken off. Hence the louder flasher. Of course sometimes I drive a while until it dawns on me there is a loud clicking noise. That and the shaking fists remind me to turn off my blinker

sublimer · Post by **sublimer** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 7:52 am

flyboy2610 wrote:I can't help you with #1, but the answer to #2 is a definite YES. The cancelling arms inside the turn signal switch have probably broken off. I don't think you can get them separately, you'll have to buy the whole switch.

Could you tell me a little more about a fix for #2? Is it a complicated or expensive fix?

Post by **70_F100** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 4:34 pm

Fairly cheap, not too difficult.

Probably a 50/50 chance of making it work right.

Best fix is to replace the switch.

I got mine from these guys: http://www.shee-mar.com

sublimer · Post by **sublimer** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 5:22 pm

70_F100 wrote:Fairly cheap, not too difficult.

Probably a 50/50 chance of making it work right.

Best fix is to replace the switch.

I got mine from these guys: http://www.shee-mar.com

Like this?

http://www.shee-mar.com/PDF/SM41F.jpg

How much did it cost? Thanks!

Post by **FORDification** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 9:12 pm

Actually, you CAN just buy the part of the switch which has the cancelling arms. It's normally available in the HELP section of your local auto parts store.

If your truck's a daily-driver beater, just getting this would save you a few bucks. But if you're fixing up the truck, you might be better off just replacing the whole turn signal switch, since it's likely the original and getting pretty worn out. And since most of your outside lights are wired through it, once it starts to go, you'll be tracing 'gremlins' around for a while.

sublimer · Post by **sublimer** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 7:47 am

FORDification wrote:Actually, you CAN just buy the part of the switch which has the cancelling arms. It's normally available in the HELP section of your local auto parts store.

[ Image ]

If your truck's a daily-driver beater, just getting this would save you a few bucks. But if you're fixing up the truck, you might be better off just replacing the whole turn signal switch, since it's likely the original and getting pretty worn out. And since most of your outside lights are wired through it, once it starts to go, you'll be tracing 'gremlins' around for a while.

Cool, my local store has one for $16.

Let's say that this doesn't fix it though...would the next step be the switch? That seems to be more in the $60 range :/

Post by **70_F100** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:53 am

FORDification wrote:Actually, you CAN just buy the part of the switch which has the cancelling arms. It's normally available in the HELP section of your local auto parts store.

[ Image ]

If your truck's a daily-driver beater, just getting this would save you a few bucks. But if you're fixing up the truck, you might be better off just replacing the whole turn signal switch, since it's likely the original and getting pretty worn out. And since most of your outside lights are wired through it, once it starts to go, you'll be tracing 'gremlins' around for a while.

That's the cheap, 50/50 fix I was referring to.

Some people have had some luck using that, others haven't (guess how I know...

)

The $60 range is about right for a new replacement switch from Shee-Mar. I put mine in about 6 years ago, and haven't looked back. GREAT quality.

In my case, I wish I had gone ahead and bought the switch first and bypassed the cam replacement

, but, as I said, some people have had good luck with repairs only.

sublimer · Post by **sublimer** » Sat Dec 31, 2011 3:09 pm

Yep, I'll need to buy the switch

The wiring needed work anyways from when a previous owner converted it to a floor shifter...they just cut the 7 wires and then used electrical tape to put them back together *rolls eyes*

This will also help me fix the horn!

sublimer · Post by **sublimer** » Sun Jan 01, 2012 12:26 pm

So I'm going to replace the switch...what tools do I need and where can I get replacement connector pins?

basketcase0302 · Post by **basketcase0302** » Sun Jan 01, 2012 10:24 pm

You might want to shoot these guys an email to see if they have them or not:
http://order.waytekwire.com/scategory2/ ... onnectors/
Please let us know if they do.

If not I'd try a boneyard for a decent used one. I'm also having issues with the same harness after my tilt install. But I've pacified it for now, (spray contact cleaner) so I'll hold off on replacing it for now.

sublimer · Post by **sublimer** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 12:55 am

basketcase0302 wrote:You might want to shoot these guys an email to see if they have them or not:
http://order.waytekwire.com/scategory2/ ... onnectors/
Please let us know if they do.
If not I'd try a boneyard for a decent used one. I'm also having issues with the same harness after my tilt install. But I've pacified it for now, (spray contact cleaner) so I'll hold off on replacing it for now.

What I just realized was that the replacement switch that I ordered already had the Molex pins on it, I just need to put it into the plastic connector which is easy enough.

However, Molex pins seems to have an "industry standard" size. I don't have a caliper on me to see if the size of the pins in our bumps matches their "industry standard." Could someone check the size of these pins? The "industry standard" diameter of a pin is 0.093" (2.36mm).

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/fam ... troduction

What's your problem basketcase?

basketcase0302 · Post by **basketcase0302** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:22 am

What's your problem basketcase?

Don't know...and all 3 of my ex-wives won't tell me either LOL!

I just had to go there...

I've bookmarked the Molex site, good link thanks. My issue with BC #16 is with the single Molex pin in my harness for the left rear turn signal. I've got it working at present by simply moving the wire in the harness and will leave it at that for now. I can easily remember to check the left rear turn on a regular basis, (as I have a daily DOT on a company truck that reminds me).
There are a lot of folks here on the site that have issues with this harness though. It would be nice to have a source for a replacement harness for the two different turn signal switches for our bumps.

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