3g alt conversion

[timmytim]

If I understand it right the 3g alt has a built in regulator? So I pull out all the bump alt wiring and regulator. Then run a power cable from solenoid to alt and add a inline fuse. Also there is a wire that should be yellow coming from alt and hook up to power cable side of solenoid. then there will be a wire(green) coming from alt and hooked up to the "i" terminal on the solenoid. Is that right? Where does the other terminal on the solenoid hook to? Also I will have to modify the alt brackets correct
Thankssss

[bill69f100]

I've used a 130A 1 wire alt. and it was easy to hook up. Generally you don't need the existing wiring for that type of setup. However, for what your doing you might need a couple of the wires. I found this web site for installing 3g alts on cars. It sounds like what you want to do. http://www.racesystems.com/3gproj/ Electronically it does work the way this person has the alt wired. Good luck.

[timmytim]

Thanks

[ForingaMex]

...I will have to modify the alt brackets correct

I don't think so, at least I didn't need to modify anything when I did my upgrade. It's a great upgrade, easy to do and inexpensive. You'll like it. My

[justiz00]

I removed the donor wiring back up to the distribution block so I could get the large black/orange wire with fusible link and the twin yellow wires that are spliced to a fusible link, this way I did not have to use a megafuse or source my own wire. I tied the green wire with a 560 watt resistor from radioshack into the two wire plug below the solenoid (on my truck). That was wire 904 or a green/red stripe on my 71 that goes to the key switch. I went ahead and lengthened the bracket on mine 3" even though I had a small frame 130a unit because the battery stud was right against the head and I did not want to risk a short to ground. Belt length for me was 48 3/4" using standard (stock) pulleys.

[timmytim]

I removed the donor wiring back up to the distribution block so I could get the large black/orange wire with fusible link and the twin yellow wires that are spliced to a fusible link, this way I did not have to use a megafuse or source my own wire. I tied the green wire with a 560 watt resistor from radioshack into the two wire plug below the solenoid (on my truck). That was wire 904 or a green/red stripe on my 71 that goes to the key switch. I went ahead and lengthened the bracket on mine 3" even though I had a small frame 130a unit because the battery stud was right against the head and I did not want to risk a short to ground. Belt length for me was 48 3/4" using standard (stock) pulleys.

Have any pics?
The two wire plug below the solenoid has a yellow wire, what did you do with it? I was under the impression that the 560 watt resistor had to be tied up by the charge light so if light blew it would bypass light, is that not true? You could also use the "I" terminenal on the solenoid for the green/red wire, couldnt you?

[timmytim]

I found one small case 130 amp alt on a ford escort today in the local bone yard. There were atleast a dozen 95amp. Think I just might go back tomorrow and get it. If I do I will take it by autozone and have it checked out.

[justiz00]

That yellow wire goes to my horn. I was following the schematic is have and it shows the wire I used (which originally went from the ign. switch to the regulator) is a resistor wire, so a resistor may not be needed if using this wire. Ultimately the Ign wire on the solenoid goes back to the same place as the wire I am using.

[timmytim]

That yellow wire goes to my horn. I was following the schematic is have and it shows the wire I used (which originally went from the ign. switch to the regulator) is a resistor wire, so a resistor may not be needed if using this wire. Ultimately the Ign wire on the solenoid goes back to the same place as the wire I am using.

Thanks justiz00 for the yellow wire info: I went out today and got everything I need for the swap. I found a couple of slo blo fuses and swiped them along with 4g wire and got the yellow wire, green red wire and plug from bump to hook up the horn without jack leggin up my wiring Also ran by autozone and had them test the altenator and it was putting out 14.66

[justiz00]

Wait a minute. Which yellow wire are you talking about? I want to make sure we are on the same page. The yellow wire with green stripe I am talking about is in the two wire plug on the inner fender and goes to the horn. The larger yellows from the alternator go to the battery side of the starter solenoid. I dont want anybody frying anything on my account.

[timmytim]

Wait a minute. Which yellow wire are you talking about? I want to make sure we are on the same page. The yellow wire with green stripe I am talking about is in the two wire plug on the inner fender and goes to the horn. The larger yellows from the alternator go to the battery side of the starter solenoid. I dont want anybody frying anything on my account.

haha yea we on same page justiz00

[timmytim]

The red circle in the pic is the plug that plugs into the factory harness, the green circle in the pic is the plug for horn, and yellow circle goes is the exciter wire to alt....

[timmytim]

cleaned alt

[justiz00]

I ended up having to run a washer under my pulley. It would have been close otherwise when the nut was torqued. Have you swapped pulleys yet?

[timmytim]

Not yet but I have a single and double belt pulley and hoping the double pulley will line up