starter problems
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- CNM67
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starter problems
Hey y'all im new to the forum and new to old fords but not old trucks in general ne way this is what ive got.
In my 67 f100 im getting several loud clicks from my starter solenoid relay but nothing from the starter.
Ive bench tested the starter and its fine ive also used 2 different batteries and replaced the solenoid still nothing to the starter any ideas?
In my 67 f100 im getting several loud clicks from my starter solenoid relay but nothing from the starter.
Ive bench tested the starter and its fine ive also used 2 different batteries and replaced the solenoid still nothing to the starter any ideas?
The iron never lies and 200 pounds is always 200 pounds
- forrestbump
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Re: starter problems
Battery cables in Great (not simply OK) condition? All three of them? Any signs of corrosion or breaks in the wire strands?
How rude of me...
glad having you here!!
How rude of me...

1970, 2WD, F-250, C/S, Dual Tanks, 390 FE (of course), C6, Power Steering, Power Disc Brakes, Dana 60 3.73, Sky View Blue, Ranger XLT
1970, 2WD, F-250, C/S, A/C, Dual Tanks, 390 FE (again, of course), C6, Power Steering, Power Disc Brakes, Dana 60 3.73, Wimbledon White & Sky View Blue, Ranger (almost twin brothers!)
"One of the greatest discoveries a man makes, one of his great surprises, is to find he can do what he was afraid he couldn't do" - Henry Ford
Larry
1970, 2WD, F-250, C/S, A/C, Dual Tanks, 390 FE (again, of course), C6, Power Steering, Power Disc Brakes, Dana 60 3.73, Wimbledon White & Sky View Blue, Ranger (almost twin brothers!)
"One of the greatest discoveries a man makes, one of his great surprises, is to find he can do what he was afraid he couldn't do" - Henry Ford
Larry
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Re: starter problems
battery cables bad connections. bushing in the starter could be going bad. and making it not want to start in certain spots.
- CNM67
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Re: starter problems
Yeah I've replaced everything and still the starter won't even try to turn over when I bench tested the starter I hooked it up through the cable and it worked fine I even tried to jump the solenoid directly by suggestion of the part store and all I got was a spark? It's a mystery to me.
The iron never lies and 200 pounds is always 200 pounds
- sargentrs
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Re: starter problems
I've fought that same beast in my stepson's '85 Mustang GT for a month. Replaced everything electrical from starter to the battery and every component and connection in between. His battery wasn't very old and checked out ok so we didn't replace it. It did the same thing with my bump battery and his brother's truck battery. We put 'em both back in our trucks and they fired right up. Put 'em in his GT and no go, so we didn't think it was a battery problem. Finally, I pulled the starter off again and cleaned off both the starter mounting surface and the bell housing mounting surface with a scotch brite pad, getting them nice and shiny. Put it back together and put a brand new 800 CCA battery in it. Fired right up and hasn't missed a lick in 2 months. Not sure what did it but with that 800 amp battery in it she really spins on start.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- CNM67
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Re: starter problems
Hey thanks that's what I'm down to, buying a new battery it's the only other thing I can think of
The iron never lies and 200 pounds is always 200 pounds
- basketcase0302
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Re: starter problems
If you don't have a load tester any Autozune / uriellys / audvance or other chain type parts store will load test your battery for free.CNM67 on Sun May 15, 2011 7:58 pm
Hey thanks that's what I'm down to, buying a new battery it's the only other thing I can think of
Might also want to make real sure the solenoid is grounded well. It will not pull in if it does not have a ground. This might also be due to the frame to cab ground being deteriorated of the ground strap at the front frame area being bad.

Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
- sargentrs
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Re: starter problems
Yeah, I checked mine with a voltmeter. Started at the battery terminals with cables disconnected and got 12.6v across the posts. Put the hot cable on and left it disconnected from the solenoid, got 12.6v (solenoid "S" terminal wire connected) to the other end of the cable. Connected battery cable to the solenoid and got 12.6v with the starter cable disconnected from the solenoid. Turned the key and got 12.6v to the starter side of the solenoid. Hooked up the starter cable to the solenoid, turned the key and the voltage dropped to 6v at the starter post of the solenoid. Given this, I concluded that the voltage drop was occurring either across the starter cable or the starter itself. Replaced the cable, cleaned the starter mounting surfaces and still same problem. Replaced the solenoid again (for the 2nd time) and put one of our other batteries in and she started. Hit it again and she wouldn't. Put the new 800 CCA battery in it and have had no more problems. During all this we wound up replacing...
(2) solenoids
ground cable from battery to block
ground cable from block to firewall
all cables from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter
(2) starters (took the 1st one back and exchanged)
voltage regulator
battery
had alternator tested 3 times (in sequence at o'reillys)
had battery tested twice (2 separate times)
checked ground continuity to ALL connections repeatedly
Not necessarily in that order. Some of it done by my stepson and his brother, and then redone by me, some of it by me personally. All because I don't (DIDN'T!) know how to troubleshoot an electrical/starting issue. It was only after everything else failed that we stopped, stepped back and started over, one component at a time. I think I could figure out now without going through all that or at least keep the "circle jerk" down to a minimum. I'm still not 100% sure what the original problem was. See, you're never too old to learn!
(2) solenoids
ground cable from battery to block
ground cable from block to firewall
all cables from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter
(2) starters (took the 1st one back and exchanged)
voltage regulator
battery
had alternator tested 3 times (in sequence at o'reillys)
had battery tested twice (2 separate times)
checked ground continuity to ALL connections repeatedly
Not necessarily in that order. Some of it done by my stepson and his brother, and then redone by me, some of it by me personally. All because I don't (DIDN'T!) know how to troubleshoot an electrical/starting issue. It was only after everything else failed that we stopped, stepped back and started over, one component at a time. I think I could figure out now without going through all that or at least keep the "circle jerk" down to a minimum. I'm still not 100% sure what the original problem was. See, you're never too old to learn!
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- CNM67
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Re: starter problems
@sargentrs Where you getting the loud multipliable clicks form the solenoid and nothing from the starter?
The iron never lies and 200 pounds is always 200 pounds
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- Blue Oval Fan
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Re: starter problems
Have you checked your neutral safety switch located on the column. I think just about everyone here has had to adjust theirs at some point or another. Just loosen the two 5/16" screws and slide the switch over to where it will turn over in either park or neutral. Either that or jiggle the shift lever while turning the key. This assumes that you have an automatic transmission.
Common Sense is an Uncommon Virtue
- CNM67
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Re: starter problems
No it's a 4 on the floor manual tranny it does the same thing in first clutch or no clutch same in nutrel
The iron never lies and 200 pounds is always 200 pounds
- CNM67
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Re: starter problems
Sweet thanks I'll be going over on thurs with my volt meter I'll fill everyone in after I try a few things and y'all the hospitality is much appreacheated
The iron never lies and 200 pounds is always 200 pounds
- CNM67
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- Joined: Sun May 15, 2011 1:57 pm
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Re: starter problems
Ok so I changed all my cables cleaned up the starter replaced the solenoid and jumped the battery with pops new F150 and it started no problem i still dealing with some fuel issues. But im happy and hopefully ill be driving her soon. 

The iron never lies and 200 pounds is always 200 pounds
- forrestbump
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Re: starter problems
...a Happy Ending is what we all like to hear.CNM67 wrote:But im happy and hopefully ill be driving her soon.
Thank YOU for keeping us all updated!
1970, 2WD, F-250, C/S, Dual Tanks, 390 FE (of course), C6, Power Steering, Power Disc Brakes, Dana 60 3.73, Sky View Blue, Ranger XLT
1970, 2WD, F-250, C/S, A/C, Dual Tanks, 390 FE (again, of course), C6, Power Steering, Power Disc Brakes, Dana 60 3.73, Wimbledon White & Sky View Blue, Ranger (almost twin brothers!)
"One of the greatest discoveries a man makes, one of his great surprises, is to find he can do what he was afraid he couldn't do" - Henry Ford
Larry
1970, 2WD, F-250, C/S, A/C, Dual Tanks, 390 FE (again, of course), C6, Power Steering, Power Disc Brakes, Dana 60 3.73, Wimbledon White & Sky View Blue, Ranger (almost twin brothers!)
"One of the greatest discoveries a man makes, one of his great surprises, is to find he can do what he was afraid he couldn't do" - Henry Ford
Larry
- sargentrs
- 100% FORDified!
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Re: starter problems
Xcellent! Glad to hear she's running again.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.