POR-15 Vs. Other Rust Encapsulators

[Caseys71]

Well, I've gotten my truck torn down for the most part, and have been working all weekend so that I can purchase some POR-15 and some other supplies to coat my chassis. Currently I'm on the fence between a few products, and am unsure of which method to use when applying said products. First off: Which rust preventative have you guys had the best experience with? Specifically I'm stuck between Rust-Bullet, POR-15, and Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. 2nd: I hear that POR-15 bonds better to rusted metal, is that true , If it is true would it be better to strip down to bare metal or paint right over the rust on my frame. Lastly: About how much POR-15 or which ever product you recommend, would you think it will take to do an entire chassis? POR-15's website says 1 Qt. Covers 96 Sq Ft. with one coat so I think I should be okay with two quarts for the entire chassis. Sorry if I posted this in the wrong section, I wasn't really sure where to post it . Also thanks in advance guys .

[fordman]

i bought a product called chassis saver from the local paint store. i saved on the shipping. i havent used it yet either. myself i am goignt o strip all the way down to bare metal before i use it. i only bought 1 qt . i am hoping that may be enough for the frame. i think it will be from what i read about kieths build.

[Caseys71]

I looked up Chassis-saver and there's a store about 10 minutes away from my father's job that carries it . It seem's like a pretty decent product too, the only thing that I don't wanna mess with about POR-15 or Rust-Bullet is the shipping because if I can I wanna get the stuff this week, to start doing some work while I'm off from school.

[michael69]

My local paint store carries the por15. I used it on my 67 chevelle when I restored it about 5 years ago and it still looks just as good as it did when it was put on.I'm going to use it on my 69 f100 in about a month or so. I really like it.

[robroy]

Good evening Caseys71!

I'm a beginner when it comes to prep and paint, but I've tried out a few products: Rust Bullet Automotive, Rust Bullet Black Shell, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, and POR-15 Engine Paint. You're asking some great questions and I'm not able to respond to all of them, but here are my thoughts on these products.

As you probably already know, all of these paints contain dangerous and even deadly chemicals that you mustn't breathe. For example, both Rust Bullet Automotive and POR-15 contain isocyanate-based hardeners. Inhaling too much of this chemical can be deadly--it can stop your lungs from working, and it does very nasty things to your skin too.

To quote the Wikipedia isocyanate article, "The reactivity of isocyanates makes them harmful to living tissue. They are toxic and exposure is known to result in hypersensitivity pneumonitis as well as occupational asthma in humans, both through inhalation exposure and dermal contact. Exposure to isocyanates and their vapors should be avoided. "

Brushing these paints on reduces your risk because you avoid a lot of the vapor that's generated by using regular spray or HVLP guns. And you'll want to leave no part of your body exposed to the paints.

In my opinion, the minimum safety gear for working with these paints is:

1. Long pants
2. Long sleeves
3. Thick gloves like SAS Thickster EX (part 6603)
4. Goggles that seal around your face
5. A quality 3M paint respirator like the R6211 ($31 at Amazon).

When working with these paints, a guideline is that you should never be able to smell the paint. A quality 3M respirator will remove the paint smell 100%. If you're smelling the paint, you have a leak around your mask that needs to be fixed.

Rust Bullet Automotive

Rust Bullet contains deadly isocyanate hardeners. It comes in cans and can be brushed on or sprayed through an HVLP gun with a very wide tip (1.8mm or wider). It brushes on very well and does a good job of hiding brush marks. It's also pretty fast-drying in warm weather, and it's easy to avoid drips; it's a very thick paint. It's almost like runny anti-seize compound!

Here's my frame painted with Rust Bullet Automotive shot through a Finex FX3000 HVLP.



Here's Rust Bullet Automotive on an I-beam.



Rust Bullet Automotive brushed on to the back of my FE.



Here's my driver's side floor pan. I brushed on Rust Bullet Automotive with a throw-away hardware store brush.



And the passenger's side floor pan.



Here's Rust Bullet Automotive brushed on to my brake booster.



Rust Bullet Black Shell

This is an extremely thick, gooey paint that takes FOREVER to dry. I sprayed this on my frame and suspension pieces, over Rust Bullet Automotive.






When brushed on (instead of sprayed), it's not particularly good at hiding brush marks.

If you choose to top-coat with this product, take extra care to follow the instructions on the wait time between coats. This paint releases gasses as it dries and if you top-coat too soon, you'll get ugly gas bubbles in the finish! Same goes for Rust Bullet Automotive now that I think of it.

Eastwood Rust Encapsulator

This stuff's convenient since it comes in rattle cans, and it sprays on nicely and dries quickly (just a few minutes). It's also available in two colors (black and red) to make it easier to see where you've already sprayed when putting on a second coat. It dries with a matte finish.




POR-15 Engine Paint

I have no idea if my experience with POR-15 engine paint is the same as it would have been with the regular, black POR-15 chassis paint, but I used the engine paint for the first time today. My review and some photos are in Making a T18 top end nice and tight: canes and top covers..

Caseys71, here are a few threads you may enjoy:

Durable paint in bright colors without deadly isocynates?
What safety equipment is required for paint w/isocyanates?
Which paint brushes are good for what (foam or hairs)?
Which paint spray gun should I buy for applying RustBullet?

I'd be happy to go in to more detail on the little I know about paint prep and these specific products.

Robroy

[mljjones67]

Preparation is the biggest key here. I think there is a lot of paints that will work. But I personally will be using silver bullet with there metal prep.

[Caseys71]

Thanks for the replies everyone .

Good evening Caseys71!

I'm a beginner when it comes to prep and paint, but I've tried out a few products: Rust Bullet Automotive, Rust Bullet Black Shell, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, and POR-15 Engine Paint. You're asking some great questions and I'm not able to respond to all of them, but here are my thoughts on these products.

As you probably already know, all of these paints contain dangerous and even deadly chemicals that you mustn't breathe. For example, both Rust Bullet Automotive and POR-15 contain isocyanate-based hardeners. Inhaling too much of this chemical can be deadly--it can stop your lungs from working, and it does very nasty things to your skin too.

To quote the Wikipedia isocyanate article, "The reactivity of isocyanates makes them harmful to living tissue. They are toxic and exposure is known to result in hypersensitivity pneumonitis as well as occupational asthma in humans, both through inhalation exposure and dermal contact. Exposure to isocyanates and their vapors should be avoided. "

Brushing these paints on reduces your risk because you avoid a lot of the vapor that's generated by using regular spray or HVLP guns. And you'll want to leave no part of your body exposed to the paints.

In my opinion, the minimum safety gear for working with these paints is:

1. Long pants
2. Long sleeves
3. Thick gloves like SAS Thickster EX (part 6603)
4. Goggles that seal around your face
5. A quality 3M paint respirator like the R6211 ($31 at Amazon).

When working with these paints, a guideline is that you should never be able to smell the paint. A quality 3M respirator will remove the paint smell 100%. If you're smelling the paint, you have a leak around your mask that needs to be fixed.

Rust Bullet Automotive

Rust Bullet contains deadly isocyanate hardeners. It comes in cans and can be brushed on or sprayed through an HVLP gun with a very wide tip (1.8mm or wider). It brushes on very well and does a good job of hiding brush marks. It's also pretty fast-drying in warm weather, and it's easy to avoid drips; it's a very thick paint. It's almost like runny anti-seize compound!

Here's my frame painted with Rust Bullet Automotive shot through a Finex FX3000 HVLP.

[ Image ]

Here's Rust Bullet Automotive on an I-beam.

[ Image ]

Rust Bullet Automotive brushed on to the back of my FE.

[ Image ]

Here's my driver's side floor pan. I brushed on Rust Bullet Automotive with a throw-away hardware store brush.

[ Image ]

And the passenger's side floor pan.

[ Image ]

Here's Rust Bullet Automotive brushed on to my brake booster.

[ Image ]

Rust Bullet Black Shell

This is an extremely thick, gooey paint that takes FOREVER to dry. I sprayed this on my frame and suspension pieces, over Rust Bullet Automotive.

[ Image ]
[ Image ]
[ Image ]
[ Image ]

When brushed on (instead of sprayed), it's not particularly good at hiding brush marks.

If you choose to top-coat with this product, take extra care to follow the instructions on the wait time between coats. This paint releases gasses as it dries and if you top-coat too soon, you'll get ugly gas bubbles in the finish! Same goes for Rust Bullet Automotive now that I think of it.

Eastwood Rust Encapsulator

This stuff's convenient since it comes in rattle cans, and it sprays on nicely and dries quickly (just a few minutes). It's also available in two colors (black and red) to make it easier to see where you've already sprayed when putting on a second coat. It dries with a matte finish.

[ Image ]
[ Image ]

POR-15 Engine Paint

I have no idea if my experience with POR-15 engine paint is the same as it would have been with the regular, black POR-15 chassis paint, but I used the engine paint for the first time today. My review and some photos are in Making a T18 top end nice and tight: canes and top covers..


Caseys71, here are a few threads you may enjoy:

Durable paint in bright colors without deadly isocynates?
What safety equipment is required for paint w/isocyanates?
Which paint brushes are good for what (foam or hairs)?
Which paint spray gun should I buy for applying RustBullet?

I'd be happy to go in to more detail on the little I know about paint prep and these specific products.

Robroy

Robroy: Thanks for your thoroughness I appreciate it! Also just to let you know I read through each and every one of the links you posted and now I think I've got all the information I need . Glad that you mentioned the dangers of POR-15 though I knew it contained isonocaytes I wasn't aware on all of the risks associated with it so thanks again for the links . I think I will be going with POR-15 based on what I've heard about it being much more durable than others. And with the knowledge that I have now I will be sure to pick up a good respirator, and gloves from our local Auto-body supply store. Also did you strip down to bare metal before you applied POR-15 or apply it over rust?

Preparation is the biggest key here. I think there is a lot of paints that will work. But I personally will be using silver bullet with there metal prep.

Thanks for your input, I thought about rust-bullet but I can't find anywhere local to get it and I'd like to be able to pick up the products this week so I can get to work, however I'd like to try it somewhere on my truck and will probably order some when I run out of POR-15 for the body portion of rust preventing. And I will be sure to take your advice and make sure I do the needed prep-work per POR-15's recommendations .

My local paint store carries the por15. I used it on my 67 chevelle when I restored it about 5 years ago and it still looks just as good as it did when it was put on.I'm going to use it on my 69 f100 in about a month or so. I really like it.

Thanks for mentioning that your local paint store carried it as I had thought it was something I'd have to order. Turns out our local NCS Coatings here in town carries it, and for the same price as ordering it through POR-15, and I don't have to pay shipping . Glad to here that you are satisfied with it, just out of curiousity did you strip down to bare metal before you applied POR-15? That is the one thing I'm still not decided on yet. I've been told that it works best when applied to rusty metal but I would feel much better about applying it to a clean surface, but not if it would affect the longevity of the finish .


Thanks for your help everyone, your input is much appreciated .

Edit: Also how much POR-15 should I get? Fordman indicated he only bought one, will that be sufficient for two light coats or would I be better off with getting two quarts just to be safe?

[stephen44]

I intend on blasting my chassis, washing and degreasing and then use - SPi's epoxy - it does not need a top coat as underneath the truck - UV's cannot reach.

you can read about it here - http://spi.forumup.org/viewforum.php?f= ... 0cf1b2c39e
(hope it is ok to link this ?)

- from what I'm reading - can't be beat on quality, price or help you will get from Barry - the owner.

I think everyone has there favorite though - and the safety points are well taken and important to follow

just my worth.

- Stephen

[flyboy71]

Whats up with 2-part epoxy primers? The guy at work that sits next to me swears by it.

[Caseys71]

Thanks for the continued input guys .

I intend on blasting my chassis, washing and degreasing and then use - SPi's epoxy - it does not need a top coat as underneath the truck - UV's cannot reach.

you can read about it here - http://spi.forumup.org/viewforum.php?f= ... 0cf1b2c39e
(hope it is ok to link this ?)

- from what I'm reading - can't be beat on quality, price or help you will get from Barry - the owner.

I think everyone has there favorite though - and the safety points are well taken and important to follow

just my worth.

- Stephen

That looks like a pretty neat alternative Stephen , I've read a bit on the epoxy from the forum you linked to and it does indeed sound like a great coating. I'm not sure that I would be better off going that route as opposed to POR-15 though due to my lack of experience with that coating, but then again this is my first time with POR-15 as well .

Whats up with 2-part epoxy primers? The guy at work that sits next to me swears by it.

There's some neat reading on them, if you google it, or look at the link Stephen posted you can get a good gist of it. As for explaining it them I'm of no help there , Stephen could probably provide you with some input though he seems well read on them .

Once again, Thanks for all of the information you guys are submitting, I find it helpful and I'm sure that there are a few other guys out there reading some of these posts and learning as well! .

[flyboy71]

Im bringing this thread back because Im looking at all the good info on here and trying to make my decision on what to use on my frame. That being said, Im seeing all kinds of varying opinions all over the net with regard to spilling automotive fluids on the finished surface with each product. Thus....

Have any of you coated your frame or other parts with any of these and spilled brake fluid, gas, etc. on it to know if it does permanent damage to the surface or not?

[stephen44]

I haven't one it myself - which I know is what you wanted but - SPI epoxy is gas and brake fluid resistant - which is why I have just bought it to do my chassis and engine and bay.

- so that almost counts

- Stephen

[robroy]

Good day Jeff!

The Rust Bullet Automotive + Rust Bullet Black Shell finish on my truck has been exposed to sunlight, brake fluid, motor oil, and brake cleaner so far.

Sunlight had the most dramatic effect on it--after just a few days in direct sunlight, its glossy finish turned a dull matte (where ever the sun hit it directly). Maybe I did something wrong--I don't know!

There was an area on the crossmember right under the engine where brake fluid pooled up and stayed for hours or days (I don't remember the details exactly), and when I went to wipe the brake fluid up, several quarter-sized pieces of paint came up with it. So the brake fluid did seem to mess it up after being in contact for a while.

Motor oil seems to have had zero effect on it so far.

Brake cleaner (to my surprise) doesn't seem to effect it so far either!

Robroy

[fitzwell]

I intend on blasting my chassis, washing and degreasing and then use - SPi's epoxy - it does not need a top coat as underneath the truck - UV's cannot reach.

you can read about it here - http://spi.forumup.org/viewforum.php?f= ... 0cf1b2c39e
(hope it is ok to link this ?)

- from what I'm reading - can't be beat on quality, price or help you will get from Barry - the owner.

I think everyone has there favorite though - and the safety points are well taken and important to follow

just my worth.

- Stephen

in spades.

if you paint over rust, you have sealed it in. You have not killed it. Like Neil young says..."Rust never sleeps" Blast, wire wheel it down to bare clean metal & SPI epoxy. Bulletproof. As stated, the safety precautions are printed on these products for a reason.

[hazelnut]

Ive always used caterpiller paint because it works, Ive painted frames, inner finders, trim, axels, underside of the bed, inside doors, or anywhere that needs protection. Ive had brake fluid, gasoline, all sorts of cleaner on it and it still looks good. Most of the time i use medium gloss black and UV dosnt effect it, when i painted the frame on my highboy it sat outside for 3 years before put the body back on and the frame looked the same as i painted it after a power washing, still had that nice looking satin finish to it. Prep is key to any painting, after my frame was clean i sanded it with a DA sander ( 6" air sander) useing 80 grit to give the paint a good bonding surface. Caterpiller paint dosent stop rust but if its painted on clean metal its not going to rust and will look good for many years to come. Ive used it for 25 years and its allways did a good job of protecting and looking good. When you see caterpiller equipment look at how the paint holds up to whats asked of it on equipment, im sure you truck frame will look the same.