Help.....

[sargentrs]

Ok, so you do have gauges. The attached photo is the diagram should should try to follow. I'm thinking the green/red wire connecting to your 2 prong plug is serving the function of the green/red wire in the diagram. So just make sure you have the F to F connection and the A spliced together with the wire from the BAT terminal of your alternator then your inline fuse to the solenoid. If those connections are in place we can move on to the ignition circuit. Did you say you have a voltmeter and know how to use it?

[johnny55]

more
now I soon give up. I do not get it. A simple drawing how I relax on all this for my cable colors does not seem consistent with other cables. how the hell are they linked in the car ?? Now it became too much for my thinking to get this all together.

[johnny55]

oh I could not see that you sent it. okay, this is how I will relax everything now ??

[sargentrs]

If it was working that way before, it should still work. All of that is really secondary. If you have a fully charged battery, we could have you driving with a couple of jumper wires in no time, at least until your battery runs down. The alternator's primary job is to recharge the battery and the VR's job is to regulate a consistent voltage to the external circuits like the headlights. Let's move on to the ignition circuit. Make sure your battery is fully charged and hook it back up. Make sure you have the right cables on the right posts! Grab your voltmeter and start testing the flow of current from your battery + post through the solenoid and ignition circuit. First, connect the black lead of the voltmeter to the - terminal of your battery and the red lead of your voltmeter to the + terminal of the battery and make sure you have a full 12v. Then move the red lead to the battery side of the solenoid and check for 12v. That way you know you have power going to the solenoid. Then turn your ignition key to the "on" position, not all the way to start, and move your red lead to the "I" terminal on the solenoid. You should read around 9v there with the key on. If not, we have a starting point for the break. Locate the ignition wire to the coil harness. This is a 3 prong plug at the firewall on the driver's side, at the rear of the engine. It will have 3 wires, one going to the + terminal of the coil, one going to the temperature sending unit on your intake manifold and the 3rd wire going to the oil pressure sending unit down by your oil filter. Unplug this connector, turn your ignition key on and check for power on the pin that leads to the coil. You should read 9-12v there with the key on. Have you replaced your solenoid yet? And are you still using points in the distributor?

[johnny55]

Thank you.
Now tonight, the rain came, so it was no more work with Ford. I'm starting to understand a little more now of what you learn. I will try to measure tomorrow with my voltmeter. My battery is now fully charged, so I should relax on it tomorrow if it does not snow and rain hehe.

I have replaced the solenoid to the new one. Do not quite understand the whole "are you still using points in the distributor 'How do you mean?
Then the whole "Locate the ignition wire to the Coil harness the" I do not know what it is and where it is but I will look after tomorrow. You should probably just be the key. Ignition shall only be on and not start if I understand correctly.

[sargentrs]

The ignition harness I was referring to is labeled D in this diagram. http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... arging.jpg. That plug connects your main ignition harness to the ignition switch and connects the temp/oil pressure sending units to your gauges. One of the wires goes to the + terminal on your coil. That's where you need to check for power with the key on.

By "running points" I mean is your distributor still the original contact points with condenser design. https://www.google.com/search?q=ford+po ... 10KJ-yCJUM: or have you converted your ignition system to an electronic ignition design?

[johnny55]

Now I'm damn tired of this car. I soon give up. Just a lot of trouble now ... .suck
Now I have a new battery to 12.90 volts as I measured out with a multimeter.
I put on the first pluss cable + then I put on ground - and then flashed it and did not sound good, and the car began to try to start without the key in ???
Battery pole ground do not look good now. See the picture. Now, I give up. Is tired of this now. Have tried for so long now but nothing works

[sargentrs]

Haha! Electrical problems can be very frustrating, Don't give up on her yet. Are you sure you put the right cable on the right post this time? Your cables are still the wrong color which is an accident waiting to happen. On a positive note you've made progress, At least we know you have power and that your starter works. Here's what I want you to do. Disconnect your battery cables from the battery posts. Then disconnect everything from your starter solenoid, every wire. Now connect your ground cable to the - post of the battery. Then connect the + battery cable to the solenoid but leave it off of the battery for now. Your cable that goes from the solenoid to the starter looks to be between your fender and your heater hoses. Get it out of there, inspect it for burnt insulation, and route it on the other side of the hoses, between them and your engine. Pinching a "hot" cable against a metal surface like that is another accident waiting to happen. Once you've moved it, connect it back to the solenoid. So now you have your ground cable connected, your starter cable connected to the solenoid, and your battery hot cable connected to the solenoid but not connected to the battery. At this time nothing else should be connected to the solenoid but those 2 cables. All other wires have been disconnected and are not touching any metal surface or other wires. Once confirmed, briefly touch the cable that goes from your solenoid to the + post on your battery. Just a quick touch. Did the starter engage? If so, your solenoid is bad and stuck open. Solenoids are often bad even though they are brand new. I've had to buy 3 before I got a good one.

[sargentrs]

If the starter engaged, replace the solenoid and try the same test again. If it didn't, we'll move to the next connection. If the starter did not engage, leave your battery cables connected to the battery and reconnect the wire to the "I" terminal on the solenoid. This should be the brown wire with the L shaped rubber boot. Did the starter try to engage? If yes, the solenoid still may be bad, replace it, or your ignition switch may be bad. If no, reconnect the wire to the "S" terminal on the solenoid. This should be a red with blue stripe wire with an L shaped rubber boot. Did the starter try to engage? If yes, the problem is most likely your ignition switch and you should replace it. If no, leave that wire connected and we'll move on to the next connection. If you have the wires to the "I" and "S" terminals reversed, the starter will also engage as soon as you connect your + battery cable. I have made that mistake before.

[johnny55]

Unfortunately, I do not understand really what you mean? (Language translation)
I have no battery cables to the battery now. Yes, I have attached the correct + and - though they do not have the correct cable color.
1. Should I switch on - ground cable to the battery. But no + cable to the battery ??
2. All cables look good from the starter solenoid no lies against the metal?
3. Should I remove all the cables to the starter solenoid and only have a cable + connected to the starter solenoid?
The strange thing is that it is the first time the car has tried to start without a key when I have inserted the battery.
This was difficult to find a solution. Does not get any more work today this has been raining all day, and now it has started snowing ... .suck and only 3 + out.

[sargentrs]

Unfortunately, I do not understand really what you mean? (Language translation)
I have no battery cables to the battery now. Yes, I have attached the correct + and - though they do not have the correct cable color.
1. Should I switch on - ground cable to the battery. But no + cable to the battery ?? Correct
2. All cables look good from the starter solenoid no lies against the metal? I'm talking about the red cable in the photo below..
3. Should I remove all the cables to the starter solenoid and only have a cable + connected to the starter solenoid? Yes but also leave connected the cable from solenoid to starter.
The strange thing is that it is the first time the car has tried to start without a key when I have inserted the battery.
This was difficult to find a solution. Does not get any more work today this has been raining all day, and now it has started snowing ... .suck and only 3 + out.

The reason for this test is to see if your solenoid is stuck.

[sargentrs]

Sorry, can't attach photo from phone. Will attach when I get back home.

[sargentrs]

The red cable between the inner fender and the heater hoses. Possible short circuit situation.

[johnny55]

I will look at the cable, but I think it is in good condition.
It may be when the weather is a bit better here. must be under the car to see all the way.

[sargentrs]

Still winter time in Sweden? Here in Georgia it was 65* and sunny