Think of the Exciter wire as a (on / off) switch... These old alternators / regulators have to have a signal to turn them ON, then they will charge... The voltage Regulator takes over from there as to how hard it needs to work the alternator to charge the battery.
As I mentioned before this wire should be resistive or have a resistor OR a light in line with it. This is because when you first turn on the key it puts power on this wire to the voltage regulator and until the alternator starts charging the voltage regulator Grounds this wire. That is what makes the idiot lights come on. Then after the alternator starts charging the voltage regulator will back feed power on this line which would make the idiot light go out and stops the short to ground...
So not having anything (resistance or light) in there may or may not work as the wire is a direct short to ground until the alternator starts charging... so I don't know how it will go without some resistance
Shayne
I'm not "Brand Loyal" Ford-Chevy-Dodge-Toyota I have them all, one even cross mixed...
If it Looks good and Works good then it's ok by me. Everything has its issues from time to time...
Okay, I wired that wire up directly from the switch to the regulator and still didnt see 13.5...I had the alt tested, battery tested, and all cables are new grounding and power wise, as is the wiring harness.
I just fought with this exact problem two weeks ago. I replaced the voltage regulator, and the alternator. Checked the current and was only getting 13.6 which I could have settled with, but after looking around, I cleaned the area behind the voltage regulator so it had a good metal to metal ground and tightened a chasis ground that was loose and boom..... I got 14.4 out of the meter.
Make sure your grounds are all clean and tight.
"There's just something women like about a Pickup Man"
-Joe Diffie