
think i may have found my problem
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think i may have found my problem
there is a adapter i am missing wires 33, 1, and 6 connect to it and i don't know what it is called or what it is but a plug plugs into it . it is between starter solenoid and the voltage regulator. any suggestions? 

Aurelio Landeros
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
- sargentrs
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Re: think i may have found my problem
Are you referring to this relay and it's 3 prong connector? That's the horn relay and shouldn't have any connection to your starting/running issue.
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Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: think i may have found my problem
Yes that's what is not wrong I guess is there something I'm missing my ignition switch is good what else could it besargentrs wrote:Are you referring to this relay and it's 3 prong connector? That's the horn relay and shouldn't have any connection to your starting/running issue.
Aurelio Landeros
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
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Re: think i may have found my problem
What was the original complaint?
1967 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
Another 67 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
2016 F-150 Eco-Boost 2.7 liter. (It will smoke the tires!)
1972 F-350 Sport Custom cab & chassis.
1972 F-250 Explorer Special, Camper Special.
1971 F-100 custom. 302, C-4, p.s. p.b. factory 65 amp alternator with transistorized voltage regulator.
Another 67 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
2016 F-150 Eco-Boost 2.7 liter. (It will smoke the tires!)
1972 F-350 Sport Custom cab & chassis.
1972 F-250 Explorer Special, Camper Special.
1971 F-100 custom. 302, C-4, p.s. p.b. factory 65 amp alternator with transistorized voltage regulator.
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Re: think i may have found my problem
i can not turn truck off with key. i have no head lights or blinkers. ignition coil gets super hot truck will only start and run once and then wont start until several hours of sittingBusboy wrote:What was the original complaint?
Aurelio Landeros
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
- sargentrs
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Re: think i may have found my problem
Did you say you're still running points? Have you checked the pink resistor wire from your ignition switch to the solenoid? You should read about 9+ volts at the "+" terminal of the coil with key in the "run" position if your resistor wire is working as it should. Still sounds like an ignition switch issue. Is this an automatic transmission? Do you have a neutral safety switch? Just shooting in the dark...
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: think i may have found my problem
Yes running points brand new points condenser an rotor cap I have not checked pink wire yet I do have a manual it is always out of gear when cranking the harness I have is off a v8 and I have a240sargentrs wrote:Did you say you're still running points? Have you checked the pink resistor wire from your ignition switch to the solenoid? You should read about 9+ volts at the "+" terminal of the coil with key in the "run" position if your resistor wire is working as it should. Still sounds like an ignition switch issue. Is this an automatic transmission? Do you have a neutral safety switch? Just shooting in the dark...
Aurelio Landeros
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
- sargentrs
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Re: think i may have found my problem
Sounds like you have a couple of different issues.
Coil getting hot could be why it'll run once and then you have to wait for it cool down before it'll run again. Bad coil or could be getting too much voltage due to a faulty resistor wire.
Also, condensers and starter solenoids are notorious for being bad right out of the box. Don't rule out a faulty "new" one.
Headlights not working. I'm leaning toward a bad headlight switch/circuit or turn signal switch.
Won't turn off with key. Still sounds like a bad ignition switch but could be a solenoid issue.
Start with replacing the coil, it's cheap, to see if you can get to run reliably. Then we can tackle the killing with the key problem.
Coil getting hot could be why it'll run once and then you have to wait for it cool down before it'll run again. Bad coil or could be getting too much voltage due to a faulty resistor wire.
Also, condensers and starter solenoids are notorious for being bad right out of the box. Don't rule out a faulty "new" one.
Headlights not working. I'm leaning toward a bad headlight switch/circuit or turn signal switch.
Won't turn off with key. Still sounds like a bad ignition switch but could be a solenoid issue.
Start with replacing the coil, it's cheap, to see if you can get to run reliably. Then we can tackle the killing with the key problem.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: think i may have found my problem
OK sweet will need some time had surgery on my right hand for a real bad infection swell up like balloonsargentrs wrote:Sounds like you have a couple of different issues.
Coil getting hot could be why it'll run once and then you have to wait for it cool down before it'll run again. Bad coil or could be getting too much voltage due to a faulty resistor wire.
Also, condensers and starter solenoids are notorious for being bad right out of the box. Don't rule out a faulty "new" one.
Headlights not working. I'm leaning toward a bad headlight switch/circuit or turn signal switch.
Won't turn off with key. Still sounds like a bad ignition switch but could be a solenoid issue.
Start with replacing the coil, it's cheap, to see if you can get to run reliably. Then we can tackle the killing with the key problem.
Aurelio Landeros
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
- sargentrs
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Re: think i may have found my problem
Hope it gets better soon! Your truck needs you 

Last edited by sargentrs on Tue Sep 29, 2015 2:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: think i may have found my problem
Thanks and yea she needs some real attention she has to be finished by October 39 I have some pics gonna upload soon so u can see electricalsargentrs wrote:Hope it gets better soon! You're truck needs you
Aurelio Landeros
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
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- New Member
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Re: think i may have found my problem



Aurelio Landeros
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
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- New Member
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Re: think i may have found my problem







these are some pics of the ignition set up brown and red/black are ignition and star wires i believe.
Aurelio Landeros
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
- sargentrs
- 100% FORDified!
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Re: think i may have found my problem
You definitely have some work to do on your electrical. First things first. You say you can start it and it'll run as is, coil gets hot, but you can't kill it with the key? Your headlight switch looks ok although I'm not sure what those empty terminals are for, you may be missing a connection or two. Your red/white ignition wire looks like it may be melted. Do you have a voltmeter? Check your voltage at the + terminal of the coil with the key on and engine running. You should be getting around 9 volts. If you're getting a full 12, then your resistor wire is not doing it's job. You can also check the resistor wire by setting your voltmeter to Ohms and checking resistance on both ends, at the ignition switch and as far back along as you can easily get to. Should read around 1.3-1.4 ohms.
What kind of budget do you have to work with?
By the way, what year is your truck and didn't you say in your previous thread that you have a different wiring harness that what was original to your truck?
What kind of budget do you have to work with?
By the way, what year is your truck and didn't you say in your previous thread that you have a different wiring harness that what was original to your truck?
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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- New Member
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Re: think i may have found my problem
yes major work yes it will crank with key wont turn off with key dont believe i have voltmeter. the harness off a 71 with a v8 my father tore my truck apart and left me with it idk y he tore it apart but he chopped my wiring harnes and its trah complete trash so i had to salvage one of another truck. my budget for the truck right now is about 50 dollars a month as i am paying for a few collage classes. but i can do some side work to get some more cash for itsargentrs wrote:You definitely have some work to do on your electrical. First things first. You say you can start it and it'll run as is, coil gets hot, but you can't kill it with the key? Your headlight switch looks ok although I'm not sure what those empty terminals are for, you may be missing a connection or two. Your red/white ignition wire looks like it may be melted. Do you have a voltmeter? Check your voltage at the + terminal of the coil with the key on and engine running. You should be getting around 9 volts. If you're getting a full 12, then your resistor wire is not doing it's job. You can also check the resistor wire by setting your voltmeter to Ohms and checking resistance on both ends, at the ignition switch and as far back along as you can easily get to. Should read around 1.3-1.4 ohms.
What kind of budget do you have to work with?
By the way, what year is your truck and didn't you say in your previous thread that you have a different wiring harness that what was original to your truck?
Aurelio Landeros
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty
1970 f100 240 I6 3.9L 1bl carb 4 speed light duty