Painless Harness Charging problems

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I installed a painless harness a while back, and everything is working properly except for my charging system. I plan to upgrade to a 3G in the future, but want to get the old system working before I make any changes.

I have a known good battery that has 12.7V, my regulator is properly grounded, as is my alternator. I have a good engine ground, and a good chassis ground.
When I use a jumper wire across A and F on the regulator connector, the charging system puts out upwards of 17V, which I can read on my dash gauge, as well as a my multimeter at the battery. I have followed the troubleshooting instructions on this site, and everything leads to the regulator being the culprit. I swapped the regulator over to another bump, and it performs fine.

Below is from the Painless manual for hooking up the charging system. I am running a standard voltmeter, so it just needs battery voltage when the key is on, which it has. The two wires that show to be hooked up to the ammeter are just tied together, as I am not running one.


The green/red wire coming from the "I" terminal on the regulator connector is where I think my problem lies. It is typically hooked up to a charge light, which should be lit if the system is not operating. I was told that if I am not using a charge light, it must be hooked up with a resistor in line.

For testing, I hooked up one of the dash bulbs that came with the Painless kit. I hooked up the bulb to the "I" terminal on the regulator, and then went to ground. The system still does not charge. I know the bulb works, as it lights up when I hook it up to the battery. There are no fuses blown, and I feel it is something simple I am overlooking or hooking up incorrectly.

Can you see anything I have done wrong based in the information provided?

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No real answer here in case you are looking at this with the same issues. I gave up and just did the 3G swap and all is well. I am running an electric fan, electric fuel pump, and plan to have more electric components so the added amperage was necessary anyways.

[Nitekruizer]

I don't know what to tell you. What happens if you untie the ammeter wires?

The original factory wiring diagram shows a resistor in parallel with the Charge Indicator Light even when the light is used.

Make sure the regulator has a good ground.

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With the ammeter wires disconnected and no resistors in line, the result was the same.

All of my grounds were verified and I even used jumper wires after the third or fourth time of doubting myself.

I know it was something simple, but after three weeks of trying every combination I could for a system that was still inadequate, I made the swap.

Thanks for the reply.