Calf's 69 Crew build, and CNM67's 67 shorty build

[Calfdemon]

Ordered a ton of stuff from Summit and a few other places over the past few days, so just waiting to get all my parts before I get into more updates and photos. Next week I should have my new spark plug wire looms so I can organize the engine bay a little better and cut my new wires to length for a clean install. I also ordered a new air cleaner, but need a spacer to make it fit. That is also coming with the wire loom. I also ordered LED lights for every light in my truck, inside and out, along with electronic flashers so they work correctly. I haven't looked into headlights yet, but that is on the list.

I still have some electronic gremlins to chase down, and it appears that my door lock kit is crap and does not have enough power to work my doors. Unless I can use the same system and just replace the actuators, I will have to rip the whole system out and put in a new one. That is not going to be fun and quite a bit of work. But oh well... That's what I get for buying a cheap kit in the first place.

I had bought some small 4" speakers that I was originally going to install under the dash pointing downward for my sound in the truck. That was before I bought my Classic Air system and now, I have no room to mount the speakers in the fashion that I had planned. So I have been looking for another answer that does not include cutting any of the metal in the cab. I found a cool speaker box made by Vertically Driven Products that has 2 woofers and 2 tweeters in it which is designed for Jeeps and other off road vehicles: http://www.vdpusa.com/jeep/center-sound ... peaker.php

I was looking at the measurements and upon checking, had a sneaky suspicion that it might work in our Bumpsides. While Summit sells this thing for $190, I shopped around and found it being sold for $142 at Auto Anything with an additional 15% off coupon code... I ordered it yesterday and it arrived today from VDP directly (in Long Beach, CA) for $130 shipped. Here is where I bought it: http://www.autoanything.com/jeep-tops/7 ... Ajyx8P8HAQ

I put the box in my truck and it fits PERFECTLY!! You can secure it down permanently from the inside by taking out a speaker and drilling the box into the floor (instructions included) or you can velcro it to the carpet. I am going the Velcro route for now as I don't think it will go anywhere. I ran the speaker wire behind my firewall cover from the stereo bay and it plugs directly into the back of this unit. I don't have my stereo installed yet so I cannot say how it sounds, but the Jeep guys seem to like it and the reviews I read on it were all good.



They also sell an amplified version and one with LED lights built in for a light show, but I don't need any of that. So I just got the 54101 model.

[Ralphatlarge87]

Hello new to fordification. I just found this build it's like truck porn to me I've only seen one other crew cab in person. I have a 1971 f250 4x4 crew cab myself and see you live in my home town Santa Clarita. I would love to see your truck in person calf and maybe pick your brain a little bit. It's good to see so many people have a love for these old trucks.

[Calfdemon]

Well, Ralph!! And small world huh? I had no idea there was another bumpside Crew Cab in Santa Clarita! Yeah, you can pick my brain or see my truck whenever. It is getting close to being on the road, so you may see it around town here and there shortly if you dont see it before that. My goal is to have it in the Route 66 car show in October up in Canyon Country at the Route 66 grille. I am not sure I am going to make that deadline though, but I am trying...

Feel free to send me a PM with any questions or a phone number if you have questions.

-Rich

[cole71]

Where did you pick up your flashers at? I also have LED's and need to get the correct flasher.

[Calfdemon]

Where did you pick up your flashers at? I also have LED's and need to get the correct flasher.

I bought them from Summit. They came today with my wire looms, air cleaner spacer, and carb spacer. Just search for LED flashers in summit, they have 2 types.. A cheap one for around $6 or so and then a $12 one. I bought the $12 one because it comes with the reverse polarity plug that I "think" we need. I am not sure, so I went with that one so if we need it, I have it. If we dont, then I overspent.. but oh well.
These are the ones I bought: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-90652

I got home a little later from work today than I had hoped, but had enough time to get my plug wires done with the new looms and then cut them to size.. As in typical fashion, I cannot do ANY job on this truck without screwing something up. So I was almost done and was working on my number 3 wire and for some reason, thought I was working on my number 2 wire. So I cut it to fit to the number 2 spot on the dizzy. Once I had it done, I realized my error. I had a pre-made set of Ford Racing wires already which were what I used to get the motor running. So I used the pre-made #1 wire from that kit in my new install, and used my uncut #1 wire from my universal set to make a new #3 wire the proper length. Here are the final results and you can see my #1 wire is probably about a half inch too long. But it is close enough I guess...

I think they came out pretty well. Much better than the spaghetti that was all over the place before. I still need to finish up the rest of the wiring under the hood and get it all cleaned up. I also forgot to plug in the #1-4 wires to the plugs for this photo.. but you get the idea.

[BobbyFord]

Where did you pick up your flashers at? I also have LED's and need to get the correct flasher.

I bought them from Summit. They came today with my wire looms, air cleaner spacer, and carb spacer. Just search for LED flashers in summit, they have 2 types.. A cheap one for around $6 or so and then a $12 one. I bought the $12 one because it comes with the reverse polarity plug that I "think" we need. I am not sure, so I went with that one so if we need it, I have it. If we dont, then I overspent.. but oh well.
These are the ones I bought: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-90652

I got home a little later from work today than I had hoped, but had enough time to get my plug wires done with the new looms and then cut them to size.. As in typical fashion, I cannot do ANY job on this truck without screwing something up. So I was almost done and was working on my number 3 wire and for some reason, thought I was working on my number 2 wire. So I cut it to fit to the number 2 spot on the dizzy. Once I had it done, I realized my error. I had a pre-made set of Ford Racing wires already which were what I used to get the motor running. So I used the pre-made #1 wire from that kit in my new install, and used my uncut #1 wire from my universal set to make a new #3 wire the proper length. Here are the final results and you can see my #1 wire is probably about a half inch too long. But it is close enough I guess...

I think they came out pretty well. Much better than the spaghetti that was all over the place before. I still need to finish up the rest of the wiring under the hood and get it all cleaned up. I also forgot to plug in the #1-4 wires to the plugs for this photo.. but you get the idea.

That looks so much better. Good job
What did you do to cure the fuel seepage on the front float bowl fuel fitting?

[Calfdemon]

I'm embarrassed to answer that Bobby... I cured it by tightening them down while the carb was installed. It is amazing how much tighter you can make things when they are secured to something rather than when you are holding the carb on your lap...

[BobbyFord]

[Calfdemon]

Well, today I feel like I made some real progress... I dove in to my power windows to correct my wiring which was causing windows to work opposite of what my switches were doing. So got those all dialed in and then called Spal to inquire about a few other problems I have been having with the system. It ends up that about 2 years ago (when I bought my system), they had a batch of bad switches that went out with their systems. The problems I was describing were exactly what they had heard before and he assures me it was a problem with the switches. He is sending me out 7 new switches which will correct the problem. I had 2 good switches out of the 7 and used the 2 good switches in other locations to see that he was right. The windows work great with the good switches. So that is a load off my mind and my windows will be working great here very shortly. I will say that the windows work GREAT with our trucks, and Spal has great customer service...

The auto door locks are another story. The kit I bought does not have enough power to operate our locks. The phone number on the website for Commando is no longer in service, but they are still selling kits. They do not answer emails which is the only way to get ahold of them. Their product sucks and their customer service is non-existant.

I will be looking into another kit (possibly Spal) that has more power and purchasing a new system. The crap part is that I worked the wiring for the door locks in with the windows and it is going to be a major pain to pull the old system and put in the new one. Well, pulling the old one wont be too bad as I can just cut and pull, but installing a new one is another story.

Anyway, that can wait... My door locks still work manually they way they came from the factory.

I dove under the hood today and got the entire engine bay buttoned up with the exception of the brakes, vacuum lines, the AC compressor belt, and I have not attached the 2 hoses to the compressor yet. But everything else is done under the hood and all the wiring is done and wrapped. I think it came out pretty clean...





The list of stuff to do is pretty small at this point before I can drive it... The way I see it, here is what is left:

Install windshield
Wire the rear of the truck from the engine bay to the back
Finish stereo install and buttoning up the dash (easy stuff)
Install front seats
Bleed the brakes
Install window felts (anti-rattle kit)
Install cowl to hood rubber
Install front grille, bumper, and valances
Swap out my reverse thread lugs on the rear drivers side wheel
Get the exhaust done
Get my wheels out of storage and clean them up
Order the proper size lug nuts for my wheels
Wash off all the dirt and dust that has acquired on the truck
Get the 2 spots on the truck that I scratched touched up and painted
And eventually get new tires, but the ones on my good wheels are fine for now

That is pretty much it aside from any unforseen issues. But other than the door locks which I will tackle later, that is it. I am trying to get all of this done in the next 4-5 week as there is a car show in October that I have as a goal to get the truck in. We will see...

[BobbyFord]

Engine compartment looks great. I like the air cleaner.

[Calfdemon]

The last 3 days have been hell at work and today was the first time I had a chance to do anything on the truck. So I gave up on the chrome windshield trim and ordered the non trim window gasket from LMC. It came the other day and now my front windshield is finally in. I also glued the rear view mirror bracket to the glass and got my mirror with built in map lights installed. So that's done. Anyone want a front window gasket for trim along with a really nice set of window trim for a steal? I no longer have a use for it.. I paid $50 for the gasket and the trim is worth over $100 in the condition it is in. $100 shipped for all of it. It can be someone else's headache! (quite the salesman, aren't I?)

I also got all of my LED lights in. So now every light in my truck aside from the cigarette lighter lights and my headlights, are now LED. I got the rear end wired up and all the lights in finally. I pulled the original hacked up wiring that was on the frame from the engine compartment to the rear and used a good portion of it to extend my 72 rear wiring harness a few feet so it would reach the rear on the crew cab. I have that wiring all done and will be running it tomorrow and securing it to the frame. So then the rear end of the truck will be done and I should hopefully have working brake lights, blinkers, and reverse lights.

I am still torn on how I am going to handle my auto door locks. I am pretty set on buying a new set which includes the key fobs and alarm as one complete kit. Either the SPAL kit which is the same maker as my power windows, or the MES kit from A1electric which is also a pretty nice kit. Either way, I have to wait till Monday when I get paid. My dilemma is that I want to button up the rest of the interior so i can get the front seat in and get this thing driving in order to get more done on it. But if I button everything up, then I have to tear it all back apart to re-do the door locks. So it does not make sense to do that. But if I do not button it up, then I am stalled and cannot get other things done because I cannot drive and move the truck. Its a catch 22...

Oh well, I will figure it out. In the meantime, the only picture I took today was the windshield that is finally in the truck and not taking up space in my garage.

[sargentrs]

She looks great Rich! Fantastic work!

[guhfluh]

Lookin good!

1) Order the SPAL kit to match.
2) Replace the rear wheel studs - it'll take a while.
3) Connect brake lines, bleed and adjust.
4) Finish radio install
5) Install wiper arms
6) Install seat with 4 bolts as needed, it can be unbolted and slid back out of the way if need be? Or install lock kit because it's come in by now

[jimmy828]

That truck looks great. Looks like you pay a lot of attention to the detail work also. That thing will turn heads.

[Calfdemon]

Lookin good!

1) Order the SPAL kit to match.
2) Replace the rear wheel studs - it'll take a while.
3) Connect brake lines, bleed and adjust.
4) Finish radio install
5) Install wiper arms
6) Install seat with 4 bolts as needed, it can be unbolted and slid back out of the way if need be? Or install lock kit because it's come in by now

Thanks for all the compliments guys! Now to address the above list...

1. I am actually leaning more towards this kit: https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/me ... =W02F-740T as it is all inclusive. If I go with the Spal kit, then I need to make it work with the keyless and alarm brain that I have now. Not sure I want to go that route and with the MES kit, then it is all designed to work together. A bit more money, but probably the better route to go. Here is a little more info on the actual MES system: https://www.a1electric.com/mes.htm

2. I am actually not going to do the wheel studs myself. I am going to take it to my tire guy who can knock it out, get my proper lug nuts for my 5 slot mags, and then mount and balance my tires on my wheels all in one shot. So it will get done in a few hours. Just gotta get the lug nuts pre-ordered so he already has them.

3. Yeah, very soon

4. I would have this already done, but again, I need the stereo out to run door lock wires from the drivers side to the passenger side. If I button it up, I have to take it all back out...

5. Ha! Yeah, simple 30 second install. They would already be on but I want to get new wiper blades first.

6. in a stock bench, this would work. But my custom front seat is heavier and a little wider which makes sliding it back near impossible. It is just easier to not put it in until I am done with the interior.