Coulda' swore I remember someone here stating that the instrument panel lights get power from the IPVR, (making it less than 12 volts powering them). But when I look at this diagram I see them getting 12 volts from the headlight switch:
I would put a digital volt meter on the socket of the panel lights just for grins and giggles and verify the voltage there before condoning the new bulbs. Please let us know what voltage you read there.
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
Bill, I believe that the IPVR reduction in voltage, (around 6 volts) also feeds the instrument panel lighting. I just can't "see it" or how it's done on the above wiring diagram.
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
Instrument panel lighting is controlled by the headlight switch.
It's wire #19 that goes through a 2 amp fuse then to the instrument lamps.
The rheostat in the headlight switch is what controls intensity.
Not saying that Bill is wrong (there may be some grounding issue when the IPVR is removed), but the IPVR is on a totally different circuit than the lights.
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???
That's not an oil leakThat's SWEATfrom all thatHORSEPOWER!!
I knew that Richard, just forgot I guess as I've had so many of them quit on me! Check the rheostat on the headlight switch. A lot of times I'd just bent the "arm" to put more pressure onto the spring assembly of it to make them work. Might also want to verify the voltage needed to make the LED's work-as I believe they do need a full 12 volts, (rheostat turned all the way up). If you have an aftermarket, (made in china) headlight switch in the truck-this is probably the fault. I'll never spend another penny on a "standard" brand (red & white box) anything electrical.
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
The LED type bulbs use a special flasher. The old style flashers that came with our trucks won't flash them. Some of the LED bulbs have more LED's than others and have them arranged differently, so that can affect how much light gets reflected through the tail light lens. They also work best if the LED's are the same color as the lenses. Our trucks originally used 1157 bulbs so an 1157 LED would be best. The 3157 may not be the correct replacement LED. IHTH
Last edited by Nitekruizer on Wed Feb 13, 2013 2:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
390 FE IN A "BUMP" / 383 WEDGE IN A 2 DOOR C-BODY / 351W IN A FULL-SIZE MERCURY / 194 CHEVY 6 IN A DUECE / 2.4 DOHC CHRYSLER IN A PLASTIC BUBBLE (Driver)
little late to the party, but..Dash lights are 12v, off the switch. One thing about LED's, they are great if you have a straight "line of sight". Once you get about 15 deg. off of direct, they are worse than regular bulbs. just my
As a metter of fact, i AM trying to keep up with the Jones'
Driving like Parnelli, Drinkin' like George
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basketcase0302 wrote:Coulda' swore I remember someone here stating that the instrument panel led lights get power from the IPVR, (making it less than 12 volts powering them). But when I look at this diagram I see them getting 12 volts from the headlight switch:
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I would put a digital volt meter on the socket of the panel lights just for grins and giggles and verify the voltage there before condoning the new bulbs. Please let us know what voltage you read there.
I dont think there is any worse performance.. I have been using them for years and I think no other lights perform better