Help with Electronic Ignition Install

[fireguywtc]

I chose to just bypass mine. It was easier then tearing down the whole harness and I installed plugs incase I ever need to install a points distributor back in. You will just have to pull out the ignition swtich and find the igniton wire. Here is a diagram I found from Supermike that helped me a bunch last week.

[colnago]

do the petronix instructions say to change the coil to high voltage coil?

The instructions didn't specifically say to change the coil. I bought the ignitor, coil, and new spark plug wires as a kit. The PO suggested I replace the wires, and I figured I would swap it all out at the same time. The ignitor and coil are both Pertronix products, so I "assumed" they would play nice together.

It is the pink wire coming out of your ignition switch(key switch). yes you have to remove it and splice in another wire of the same gauge of the others. Cut it about an inch from switch splice in new wire then cut it about an inch from were it goes into firewall and splice in the other end of new wire.

Right after my last post, I found the wiring schematic on the fordification tech pages. It definitely looks like I'll have to splice in another wire; if I just cut the pink wire, then the coil won't get any power from the ignition switch.

fireguywtc, thanks for the diagram. That helps quite a bit!

Thanks to all for the tips; I hate cutting wires in a vehicle, so any pointers are greatly appreciated. Hopefully, I can report this afternoon that everything went smoothly.

Joseph

[michael69]

Yes if you cut it you have to put another wire of the same gauge back in its place.

[Mancar1]

Which pertronix and coil, (output), did you install?

[colnago]

I installed the Ignitor electronic ignition (not the II or III), and the Flame Thrower coil (1.5 ohm, 40,000 Volt). Pertronix part numbers are 1281 and 40011. Both of these are the low-end Pertronix units; they get a lot pricier from here. I'm not trying to turn my truck into a competition monster, just a reliable daily driver. I haven't put in the spark plug wires yet, but I got MSD Street Fire 8mm wires as part of my "kit".

Joseph

[colnago]

Okay, I did what fireguywtc suggested -- I spliced a line in parallel with the ballast resistor wire (using 12-gauge wire, and those squeeze clips you get at NAPA). This effectively brings the resistance to zero, and I wanted to make sure this was correct before cutting wires. Unfortunately, still nothing.

I re-applied dielectric grease to the tip of the rotor. Nothing.

I ran a trickle charger on my battery, and got it up to 13.1V unloaded. Nothing.

I've checked every one of my connections, and tightened every nut/bolt/bracket/etc. Nothing.

I put in a couple of gallons into my tank, on the off-chance that it was fuel, and not electrical. Nothing.

I am at a complete loss at this point. What else is there? My next step is to remove my resistor bypass, and put in the original coil.

When checking voltage to the coil, do I turn the key to its "On" position, then run a volt meter between the coil (+) and ground? If I do this, should I see 12V? If I don't get 12V, where else can I check?

The engine cranks, and sometimes tries to start, but nothing is "catching". It also seems that when I stop cranking, for a split second, it gives me a "burst", like it would have started if I just let the starter turn a little longer.

Any clues? Anything I can check? Unfortunately, I have to leave town in a couple of days, so I have about two hours left this week that I can devote to it. So think fast! Seriously, any pointers greatly appreciated.

Joseph

[fireguywtc]

advance the timing and check all the grounds. I know when I hooked up my setup, which might be different, it had a new ground wire. Make sure all the grounds are good to go including battery and such. You may also want to swap to the origninal coil. I don't think its necessary to go back to the resistor with the stock coil, but I am not sure about that. I though the resistor was for the points.

[colnago]

I did check the ground with the ignitor (ignitor base against engine block). I didn't check coil (-) against ground, though. I've never modified the timing on any vehicle; time to pull out the Chilton's. Interesting about the resistor being there for the points, but I would believe it with the info that came with the ignitor. That won't be covered by Chilton's, but I should be able to find something on the internet.

Keep the suggestions comin' ...

Thanks,

Joseph

[fireguywtc]

Did you pull the dizzy when you installed the pertronix? If you did, you may have it in 180 or off a tooth. If you didn't remove the dizzy, then I would suggest you try and advance it a bit to see if it helps start it. Loosen the dizzy and just turn it a couple of degrees advance. You can always reset the timing after you get it started. You are just trying to rule stuff out atm.

[colnago]

No, I didn't touch the dizzy (other than removing the top and replacing components inside). Do I adjust it from underneath? Which direction do I turn it, and by how much? You're right; I'm just trying to rule things out rignt how. After I get 'er running, I can fine-tune things. It's the I'm-not-gonna-start-and-you-can't-make-me that is driving me nuts right now.

Obviously, I can't get the rotor installed 180 degrees off; there's a notch and key to keep that straight. There didn't seem to be a right-way/wrong-way of installing the magnet, but is there a way to install it that I could have gotten wrong?

Thanks,

Joseph

[Mancar1]

I am running the petronix 1, and a flame thrower coil. I just left the resister wire in. No problems. It has been a while with a bunch of use. No problems with it.
If I was at the point you are at, I would take it off, reinstall the old coil and points and start it. Then start from scratch. Something isn't installed right obviously. Just saying that is what I would do at this point.

[fireguywtc]

No, if you left the dizzy in, you are good. You turn it clockwise to advance it. I don't know what you mean my adjust it underneath. But if you didn't remove the dizzy, you are fine. I have no idea about the magnets, my stuff was already together. It may a problem for you to look at.

[fordman]

your problem is with pwoer to the petronix. dotn start movign the dist. then it wont start at all. since i dont know if your petronix is suppose to have a different electronic coil or a points coil i cant help any further. if it needs aelectronic coil and you put a electronic coil in then you need a full 12 votls going to that coil to get it to give out enough spark to start the engine. since the petronix says not to remove the resistor wire i would say you dont need a electronix coil and you have the wrong coil on there. and that may be why it wont start.

[Hemmi06]

I have an identcle setup..

Three wires to the coil - POS= Full (no resitor)12Volt from ignition key.... Make sure it is HOT when in START position, not just hot in ON position!!! and the (Red) Pos from Pertronix.
- NEG= (Black) from Pertronix. (If you have an aftermarket Tach it would go here also)

For a quick trouble shooting test run a wire from battery (+) to the positive side of Coil and try to start. If you are not comfortable with this don't do it. ALSO DO NOT LEAVE IT (jumper from battery) CONNECTED FOR A LONG DURATION WHILE NOT RUNNING!!!! if you get a spark this way your issues are with 12V from the key/ignition.

Another thing I have found is the Pertronix seems to like to be closer to the magnetic pickup than the .30 they recomend.

After looking at yor picture of the coil it looks as if you have the Pertronix Ignitor wires backwards on the coil..... or they are right and you have the (Green) from ignition on wrong.

Good luck and keep us posted........

[michael69]

I have an identcle setup..

Three wires to the coil - POS= Full (no resitor)12Volt from ignition key.... Make sure it is HOT when in START position, not just hot in ON position!!! and the (Red) Pos from Pertronix.
- NEG= (Black) from Pertronix. (If you have an aftermarket Tach it would go here also)

For a quick trouble shooting test run a wire from battery (+) to the positive side of Coil and try to start. If you are not comfortable with this don't do it. ALSO DO NOT LEAVE IT (jumper from battery) CONNECTED FOR A LONG DURATION WHILE NOT RUNNING!!!! if you get a spark this way your issues are with 12V from the key/ignition.

Another thing I have found is the Pertronix seems to like to be closer to the magnetic pickup than the .30 they recomend.

After looking at yor picture of the coil it looks as if you have the Pertronix Ignitor wires backwards on the coil..... or they are right and you have the (Green) from ignition on wrong.

Good luck and keep us posted........