AC restoration - Is it worth it?

[alvald83]

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I have a '69 f250 CS Ranger and want to get the factory AC going.
Before i have it gone through, i was just wondering how cold these original systems were capable of getting?
All of the components are in place and the compressor engages when it is turned on, so hopefully it wont cost me my left lung to get it going. Anyone have experience getting their systems going?

[forrestbump]

Bear with me as my example is a 1978 F-150 Dent I used to own... close to our Bumps I would imagine.

The truck was a standard cab with a 351M and it had a cast iron york A/C compresser all O.E.M., factory installed, A/C.

Anyway, with the system running "right", it would keep you cold... I know, a relative term, but it's my opinion.

Keep in mind that I live in SoCal, in the desert,and yup... it gets HOT here and that factory A/C worked pretty darn good.

So I'd say keep it, fix it, do what you have to, you'll be happy with the results.

[fordman]

my 68 factory air did cool down the cab. it was way better than running without a/c. it would take a little for it to get really cold. getting repair parts probably isnt that hard. as far as cost it depends on what it needs. it will have to be upgraded to different freon of course. they also say that a large condensor in frotn of the radiator is better for the newer freon to cool the truck.

[mrollings53]

Stick with R-12 (freon). Putting in R-134A will require changing some parts out becuase the two lubricate differently or something. R-12 may come at a premium, but it will definitely cool better than R-134A. Converting to R-134 will require the A/C system be flushed and the filter replaced. It may also require new rubber lines installed.

Now my question is where do you go to get these systems rebuilt? I've got a '69 with factory air and would like to get it working again. The PO took the V-belt off of the compressor for some reason and stuffed it in the bed side tool box. I don't know if the clutch engages because the wiring's been disconnected,but all of the parts are there. I just don't know of their condition.

[fordman]

you have to have a licence to buy R12. R134A i snow on the way out i have read. they are going to a even newer freon / which i forgot the name. both R12 and 134A use ester oil for lube. the conversion only takes two new fittings to use 134A. i did it to my dakota. it was very easy. as far as where to get it rebuilt. any auto repair shop that deals with a/c can fix whatever is wrong with your air system. i did see that classic auto air does have parts for these older systems. you can do some testign of the system yourself. see if you can spin ht ecompressor pulley first. if it turns then the problem may be in the elcetrical part of the a/c system.

[70_F100]

to charge an a/c system it needs to be vacuumed down to 29.9" mercury for at least 1 hour to remove the moisture and air, if you don't do this you will destroy the a/c system and it won't cool. not something most people can do at home

That number is significantly dependent upon barometric pressure and altitude.

29.9" is pretty much for sea level, and has to be adjusted for higher altitudes.

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

well i was being nagged to leave in a hurry. what i meant to imply is that the system has to be vacuumed down to 29.9" which is the maximum. not talking about absolute pressure.

anyways. specifics aside the system has to be evacuated

[fordman]

my mistake on the oil. i have never done anything but conversions. and i used the ester oil 100 or 200 something like that.