In my 72 F250, it has the small round red emergency brake light that I assume is supposed to be on whenever the emergency brake is activated. The little red light has stayed on for years, per the PO. The emergency brake wasn't working until I had it adjusted yesterday while having the rear drums and hardware replaced. I'd like for the brake light to operate like it was designed to do and not just stay on or totally disconnect it.
Any thoughts on how I might tackle this is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
'72 F250,390,C6,76K Sport Custom, Camper Special "Ole Blu" '90 F250,460,48K XLT Lariat, Supercab '88 Lincoln Mark VII LSC, 5.0 H.O.original, was daily driver, now retired '97 Lincoln Town Car-Cartier,73K, 4.6, fact. dual exhaust,mint/original-Last Big Towncar '05 GMC Denali XL,6.0 Vortec-for the wife & kids '02 Cadillac DHS,4.6 Northstar-daily driver '73 Great Divide 22' travel trailer,restored to original '79 Mitchell 11' "Challenger XL" cabover camper-restored to original '88 Lance 11'3" LC 780 cabover-current project
There is a switch on the side of the E-brake assembly. It is probably broken. Find it and disconnect it and see if the light goes off. If it does, replacethe switch, make sure the replacement is properly adjusted, and you are in business.
I think I heard that there was a sensor wired to that light on some trucks as well...something at the proportioning valve, or the master cylinder. Neither of my trucks have it, hopefully someone who has it will post as well...or tell me I am smoking some bad dope!
Hope this helps.
Offio
When in doubt, hit the gas. It may not be the right answer, but at least it ends the suspense!!
The only substitute for Cubic Inches, is Cubic Money!
1967 F-100 swb "Varmit"
1968 F-250 4dr lwb "Beast"
1976 F-350 drw 460
1977 Club Wagon
1986 F-250 lwb
our trucks came with a brake pressure differential switch. the switch would see a imbalance in the brake fluid system and turn on a light. the one above the parking brake pedal. soem people assume that light is for the parking brake. it isnt. it is a warning light the the brake fluid has leaked and the switch is tripped. turning on the light.
there is one memeber here that i know of has two lights above the parkign brake pedal. the second light is to let you knwo the pedal is engauged. it has a switch on the pedal to turn on the light.
if you have two ligths then you have both switches. if you only have one light you need to bleed your brakes to rest the pressure differential switch.
Thanks Fordman!! I knew someone would set me straight!
When in doubt, hit the gas. It may not be the right answer, but at least it ends the suspense!!
The only substitute for Cubic Inches, is Cubic Money!
1967 F-100 swb "Varmit"
1968 F-250 4dr lwb "Beast"
1976 F-350 drw 460
1977 Club Wagon
1986 F-250 lwb
When you bleed them it might take numerous attempts to get the light off. I had to bleed 6-7 times to do it.
Once it has been bled, the light will come on briefly when starting the engine,then go out again. A pita.
Thanks everyone. I had no idea that the light was for the overall brake system. I assumed that it was to tell me that the emergency brake was on. I just flushed the brake system on Friday and bled the brakes but the light is still on. What a PITA if I have to do that several times to get it to come off! I will also see if I can find the switch and see if it's broken or whatever.
I'm really glad y'all knew this stuff as I'll have to take a look at it again.
'72 F250,390,C6,76K Sport Custom, Camper Special "Ole Blu" '90 F250,460,48K XLT Lariat, Supercab '88 Lincoln Mark VII LSC, 5.0 H.O.original, was daily driver, now retired '97 Lincoln Town Car-Cartier,73K, 4.6, fact. dual exhaust,mint/original-Last Big Towncar '05 GMC Denali XL,6.0 Vortec-for the wife & kids '02 Cadillac DHS,4.6 Northstar-daily driver '73 Great Divide 22' travel trailer,restored to original '79 Mitchell 11' "Challenger XL" cabover camper-restored to original '88 Lance 11'3" LC 780 cabover-current project
If you only had the rear system open, it's probably tripped that way.
Try bleeding the front brakes to recenter it. Open one of the front bleeders SLIGHTLY while someone holds the pedal down and watches for the light to go out.
It only requires a small pressure differential to trip it, so you probably won't loose much fluid.
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???
That's not an oil leakThat's SWEATfrom all thatHORSEPOWER!!
DMiller wrote:Hey terry1167,
You are probably already looking over there, but if not, the Brake forum has a lot of info also. Good luck!
Thanks everyone for the feedback. DMiller, you are probably right in that I should have posted this within the brake section but at the time, I had "electrical problems" on the brain but duh, you are right. Sorry about that!
'72 F250,390,C6,76K Sport Custom, Camper Special "Ole Blu" '90 F250,460,48K XLT Lariat, Supercab '88 Lincoln Mark VII LSC, 5.0 H.O.original, was daily driver, now retired '97 Lincoln Town Car-Cartier,73K, 4.6, fact. dual exhaust,mint/original-Last Big Towncar '05 GMC Denali XL,6.0 Vortec-for the wife & kids '02 Cadillac DHS,4.6 Northstar-daily driver '73 Great Divide 22' travel trailer,restored to original '79 Mitchell 11' "Challenger XL" cabover camper-restored to original '88 Lance 11'3" LC 780 cabover-current project