GM Alt. HELP!

[LANCE65]

checkout madelectrical.com

[Ranchero50]

http://www.fordification.com/tech/wiring/68-09.jpg

If you print that out on an 11x17 the wires are tracable. The grn/red stripe gets split off to severl different circuits.

Jamie

[ta TACO]

The red/green strip goes to the volt meter and to the ignition. That is the only other place it goes. Should it be wired differently?

[Ranchero50]

It does. The voltage regulator is wired differently depending on if you have the light or the gauge. I have the info in my '68 Fairlane / Mustang factory service manual at the house.

Here's a link to the same style diagram as the truck one except it uses the ammeter. The VR has all four wires connected on the truck but only three on the stang. I think this is where you are running into trouble (unless someone hacked your harness ages ago...)

http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/wiring/1968/E5.jpg

[ta TACO]

I think your asking if I have dumby lights or gauges. Gauges. I guess this is an ammeter?

[Thunderfoot]

Davin,

If those wires were swapped around it would have caused the problem you have, that is why I was posting the terminal numbers that are on the back of the alternator for routing as there are some different wire colors that could be used.

seattle67 posted this diagram (see below) on another thread and it is a good diagram that shows how the Stock Ford wiring is for an Alternator and Voltage regulator with the Stock Amp Gauge. (just that the amp gauge is wired different (see next paragraph) ) The (I) terminal on the Voltage regulator is not used that wire (the Exciter wire) is hooked to he Stator terminal on the regulator...

But as to following this Exciter wire (Green/red striped) wire back to the ignition switch, it just goes straight back it is not wired into any of the Amp Gauge wiring. If you look at this diagram (for referance) http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... ging03.jpg the the 904 wire will be (about) the same, just the voltage regulator wiring is different for this 65amp Alt set-up, and the Alt Gauge wiring is the same. You will also see in this diagram that wire 904 the exciter wire ties in with the ignition wire 16 (how/where it ties in varies) and this it where you got the voltage loop that was keeping the motor running with the alternator wiring crossed.

[ta TACO]

Shayne,

I need to trim some off the back of the alternator. I'm assuming that there is a bearing in there, so I'm not sure how much I can trim. I was also looking into just swapping a G3 since I would have to do this if I go with the small 95 amp alt. But, since I got the bugs worked out on this one and I don't want to spend money I don't need to, how far can I go on this. Also, I had read some people paid like $40 for one of these alternators. Everyone I looked at was over $150. Where do you find one for $40? I wouldn't mind spending $40, but not $150. Any help would be good.

Thank you,
Davin.

[fordman]

you can get alternators from a junkyard for about 35 or more around here.

[ta TACO]

Thanks Shayne. After I pulled the alternator I realized it was not on square to everything else. I even texted to guy I bought the truck from to tell him not to go back to that guy. It was a pretty crappy job all the way around. Anyways, I'll look to see if I can move thing in or out to get them to line up. I installed my distributor today and going to get it running tomorrow. But I was wondering what Duraspark distributors will work. I have found a couple in some engines labeled 351/400 M. Not sure if this one would fit, and have not seen any info that says this distributor will fit this engines. Any help would be great.

Davin.

[fordman]

i am not sure the 351m /400 distrbutor will work in your 390. i doubt they will. i would stay with the ones labeled 352 360 390. also some 330 md distributors will also fit in your 390. it is the size of the base of the dist where it goes intot he intake that makes the difference on the 330 md dist. new ones are about 45-50. for just the dist.

edited: from 330 xd to 330 md

[Thunderfoot]

The 351-400 wont work as the length of the shaft is different too... BUT you can take the electronic parts out of the distributor (sensor and ring) and put them into the old points distributor you have and make it an electronic one.
Some info here;
http://home.earthlink.net/~rcfaulconer/ ... rk/eec.htm

[ta TACO]

Thank you Shayne. That is some good info. This looks like it would be the easiest thing to do.

Davin.

[Thunderfoot]

I've got one here to do myself and plan on doing some photos and such but just haven't gotten to it yet... I swapped out parts on a 302 one a couple of years ago and I will say to be very careful pulling the Armature ring off they can break easy, but if it does you can get the part at the parts store. You might spray some PB Blaster or some kind a penetrating oil around the shaft a day ahead of time to see if it helps.