Cluster lights

[occupant]

I'm about to tackle the same issue on my Torino. My solution so far is to check for continuity in the wires leading to the cluster and the other green wires to other dash lights. Then if all that comes back ok, I'm changing out the headlight switch. If that doesn't work, I'm buying one of those voltage regulators for the cluster I have. My dome light works from the door switch and the headlight knob. My running lights, headlights, turn signals, brake lights, high/low beam floor button, all that works ok. Reverse lights are out though. Don't need those for inspection.

Then I have 'til the end of March to figure out why the turn signals stopped working in the Durango. There's only one flasher, and the 4-ways work fine. So I'm thinking a wiring problem or the column switch went bad. Methinks I can change it without pulling the airbag and wheel.

[Bumpside Collector]

I figured out my problem. I had some bad wires leading to the front of the truck. The battery tray had rubbed the insulation off the wires causing them to shot intermittently. These shorts caused the cluster lights, radio light, headlights, and flashers to dim and go out. I reconnected the wires and replaced the battery tray and now it all works good!

[Mancar1]

I am working on finding out why my cluster lights didn't work, and then worked off and on, now they work every time. Maybe turning the switch knob back and forth several times everytime I crawled in the truck cleaned the reostat up. Guess I should be happy the problem seems to be solved.

[Thunderfoot]

I am working on finding out why my cluster lights didn't work, and then worked off and on, now they work every time. Maybe turning the switch knob back and forth several times everytime I crawled in the truck cleaned the reostat up. Guess I should be happy the problem seems to be solved.

Could have, as it is a bit common for them to corrode on the coil and contact. Here is a picture similar to what they look like, the contact just rubs on the coil and the placement on the coil (length from end) determines the resistance = brightness of the lights.

[Mancar1]

Thunderfoot, thanks for the pic.

[mrollings53]

I had this happen recently too with all dash lights(radio,cluster,aux gauges,heater controls). All of my exterior lights/signals work as well as the dome lamp. After I noticed that they weren't working I checked the fuse block and found the fuse had blown. I replaced the fuse and tested the lights and it immediatley blew the new fuse. The only electrical I've done is install a new cigar lighter. I've tried shorting the fuse with a nut only to have it get real hot and emit weird noises from the speakers. If this turns out to be something with the switch would be great because it's easy to get to. I've also heard that it could be something else under the dash specifically for the dash lights. What's your guys' opinion on this?

[Thunderfoot]

I had this happen recently too with all dash lights(radio,cluster,aux gauges,heater controls). All of my exterior lights/signals work as well as the dome lamp. After I noticed that they weren't working I checked the fuse block and found the fuse had blown. I replaced the fuse and tested the lights and it immediatley blew the new fuse. The only electrical I've done is install a new cigar lighter. I've tried shorting the fuse with a nut only to have it get real hot and emit weird noises from the speakers. If this turns out to be something with the switch would be great because it's easy to get to. I've also heard that it could be something else under the dash specifically for the dash lights. What's your guys' opinion on this?

The fuse for the instrument lights is after the light switch, so your light switch is not the problem. You have a wire shorted out somewhere and I would look at the last thing you installed "new cigar lighter" but follow and check all the Blue/red striped wires under the dash to all the lights and look for a short to ground.

[heavyd1701]

I just hopefully fixed my cluster lights. I bought some new bulbs and put them in and my right turn signal lamp was still not working. Well out came the test light, every thing checked out. Then out came the meter and checked for continuity between the circuits, every thing seemed ok there. So I then took a bulb and socket from another hole and put it in the turn signal hole and it worked. So the darn new bulb was no good. So check everything with meters and test lights, and make sure the bulb is a good one. And by the way If I am not mistaken the hot side of the bulbs works all the bulbs, they are all on the same circuit, and is always hot when the ignition switch is on. The negative side is what turnes each bulb on independently when called opon for the turn signal lamps.

[Thunderfoot]

And by the way If I am not mistaken the hot side of the bulbs works all the bulbs, they are all on the same circuit, and is always hot when the ignition switch is on. The negative side is what turnes each bulb on independently when called opon for the turn signal lamps.

They are all on the same Grounding circuit (common ground) but they get power to them separately, the instrument lights (both bulbs) are on one power circuit from the light switch, and the turn signal indicators get there power from the same wires running out to the front signal lights.