Headlight harness?

[19agin]

I was wondering about the headlight wiring harness a lot of you spoke about in "bump upgrades". What is the purpose of it, and what does it cost? - Thanks

[Racer Z]

As wires age, the resistance increases. That means that the electricity has a harder time going through the wires. As the resistance increases, the headlights become weaker, dimmer, and start to look yellow, not white like they were 40 years ago. Replacing the wires will give the lamps back their youthful luster.

Sometimes a previous owner hacked the wires for one reason or another. Mine looks like it was butchered with a chain saw. Some things don't work and others barely. In my case, it's better and easier to replace the harness than to repair it.

Ha. I pulled the instrument cluster to see why the dash lights and gauges didn't work. The connector to the instrument cluster had been removed and all the wires crimped. As I gently moved the cluster for a better look the crimps pulled loose. Gee, I wonder why it didn't work!

Some people (like myself), simply make our own wiring harnesses, while others want that original look. Granted it's easier to just buy a ready-made harness and plug it in, but where's the fun in that?

[19agin]

I was thinking that someone had made some composite type headlights that just took the bulb in and out of the back like modern set ups. I could definetly use some more light when driving at night. I have looked ath the Sylvania halogen bulbs, I guess when I have an extra 30 I may try that out.

[Racer Z]

I was thinking that someone had made some composite type headlights that just took the bulb in and out of the back like modern set ups. I could definetly use some more light when driving at night. I have looked ath the Sylvania halogen bulbs, I guess when I have an extra 30 I may try that out.

I've seen enough adds to think it's available, but never paid any real attention to them. Just more "white noise". Not so sure I want that "look" for my truck. The 7 inch halogen bulbs should be super bright. When whatever I have burns out, I'll spring for the halogens.

[basketcase0302]

I too like Racer Z made my own from pieces and parts gotten from the internet. If you're not too wiring savvy I'd suggest to get one from our member 390Nut (Paul), he's been building these for awhile and it looks like a jam-up kit he sells:
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... ht+upgrade

Word of caution on the Halogens...that was the first thing I tried to improve my bumps lighting. Then wound up having to finally do the headlight upgrade, (most halogens just pull too much amperage for our old dilapidated wiring in our bumps). Only takes a short time to install the upgrade also.

[Thunderfoot]

As wires age, the resistance increases.

This is not a True statement, the resistance in the wire wont change with age unless it gets corroded which degrades the wire, most common place for corrosion is of the connections/connectors that have issues and add resistance to the circuit. Other thing is over current for what the circuit was designed for (if it was designed correctly) as this will breakdown the wire in any week spots it has.

As Basketcase said just up grading your headlights without upgrading the wire will make things worse as the higher watt headlights are too much for the stock wiring, see my post hear. http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 50#p496798 you gain more then just brighter headlights... I know that 390nut is out of his harnesses right now but you can find something similar that a couple of other have used at LMC or you can build your own as suggested.

[Racer Z]

Wattage is a measure of how much electric power an item draws.
Lumens is a measure of how much light a lamp creates.

Different types of lamps can draw the same amount of watts yet produce different amounts of lumens. The newer types, such as halogen can produce more lumens and use less watts than the old "conventional" sealed beam lamps.

Clearly, the connections will get dirty, even corroded effecting the flow of electrons. Simply taking the connections apart and cleaning them will help, a lot.

To clean a switch, I use a spray can of switch cleaner. Last time I bought some I got it from Radio Shack. It was labeled "Color TV Tuner Cleaner". or something close to that. Take the switch out if you can. Spray it good, deep down inside where the contacts are and operate the switch for the purpose of rubbing the contacts. Be sure the battery is disconnected. Dry the switch the best you can. I use compressed air with the regulator turned way down.

The wire its self will increase with resistance over time. In simple terms, the wire can wear out too. It just never "looks" worn out. And it take a whole bunch of years for it to become an issue.

[Thunderfoot]

Please show me where to get some of these low watt Halogen headlights for our trucks, as I have never seen any, all the ones I have found are higher then the stock 45/55 watt "conventional" sealed beam lamps were. I did the math on all this with the stock light switch here http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 28#p313744 newer switches may handle more as they could have higher circuit breakers for 4 light systems (one part number for multiple vehicles) but this makes it even worse on the wires.

YES wires do wear out but that is not what you stated, you said

As wires age, the resistance increases.

I probably took your statement to literal and I apologize...

A piece of (old) wire that has never been used will not keep increasing resistance unless it is exposed to the elements and corrodes or has been fatigued some way.

A wire will "wear out" from use from Electromigration and many factors play into how fast it will wear out, but high heat and high/over current speed it up. This wearing of the wire increases the resistance of the wire and lessens its effectiveness in current flow. Most stuff now days is designed for this so it is not an issue and the larger the wire the lesser the issue...
Our trucks have an under-rated main power wire from the battery to the cab which the extra current flow through it IS wearing it out and any extra load applied to it is not a good idea, as some have found out from fried wiring. There is a good explanation on Electromigration here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromigration.

I'm sure I'm "speaking Greek" here for most If anyone has other facts to this please let us know.

[Racer Z]

Sealed Beam 7 Inch Round by GE
Lumens unknown, not provided by manufacture.

The Incandescent Seal Beam Lamp was the ONLY type available between 1940 and 1984 as mandated by US Federal law.

Incandescent
50 / 60 Watts (low beam / high beam)
Model 6014
http://genet.gelighting.com/LightProduc ... 20headlamp

Halogen
42 / 65 Watts
Model H5024
http://genet.gelighting.com/LightProduc ... 20headlamp

Halogen
35 / 65 Watts
Model H6024
http://genet.gelighting.com/LightProduc ... 20headlamp

[Thunderfoot]

Interesting that when I looked this up over 2 years ago that it was 45/55 and now is listed as 50/60 but any rate 65>60 and that is where you have the problems with the circuit breaker in the headlight switch, add in some more resistance in the line from use and poor connections and the circuit breaker getting week, you end up with "blinking headlights" on high beam.

I was wondering about the headlight wiring harness a lot of you spoke about in "bump upgrades". What is the purpose of it, and what does it cost? - Thanks

Here is the original link that 390Nut did showing the results of the upgrade and some more details on it with members feedback. http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... &sk=t&sd=a

[Racer Z]

Interesting that when I looked this up over 2 years ago that it was 45/55 and now is listed as 50/60 but any rate 65>60 and that is where you have the problems with the circuit breaker in the headlight switch, add in some more resistance in the line from use and poor connections and the circuit breaker getting week, you end up with "blinking headlights" on high beam.

So add a relay to the circuit. What do you think the newer cars did to overcome this problem? They stopped running 50+ amps through the switch. Add a relay and a fuse somewhere in the engine compartment.

[Thunderfoot]

that is what this headlight harness upgrade is that the original poster asked about and I posted links and info too...

[Racer Z]

that is what this headlight harness upgrade is that the original poster asked about and I posted links and info too...

"I see", said the blind man.