fed up with my f.e.

[427]

My engine is possed and iv,e had about all I can take from it. Its a 64 427 r code and im running the factory aluminum 2x4 intake. It started leaking behind the intake so I pulled it off and redone it using rtv. Imediately the day after this was done it started leaking again. So I redid it again this time using adhesive to glue the cork strips to the block and light silicone on the top of gasket. This was a sucess it stopped leaking. I still had oil leaking problrms so I changed the valve cover gasket and that stopped that. Now the rear main was the culprit. I took it to a friend of mine thats a mechanic and he said he would fix it for $100. He said i needed a pcv set-up on it. I was running pent roof valve covers that are solid and i have a vent on the intake and an off-road snorkel on the back. So on the internet i found a pcv set up for my engine. After an easy install i drove it and now it pouring oil out the back of the intake. It got worse than better. Im at my end with this leaky engine. Any thoughts appreciated.Thanks Brian

[averagef250]

The rear intake seal is a real pain in the vehicle with an FE (obviously you know this). I've had to redo them myself and everytime the culprit was not the engine or the RTV I used, it was me. I didn't get the surfaces clean enough or had something fall into the stuff before putting the intake on.

I feel the RTV is much better than the cork seals. I use permatex ultra black or the same stuff with the loctite name on it and let it set up for atleast a few hours before firing the engine. Dropping the intake straight down onto the engine is critical, move it around to line things up and odds are it won't work. I also put a large bead on the block and a smaller bead on the intake itself. When the intake is on and torqued down I go back and carefully smooth the RTV with my finger to make sure it's even and there aren't any gaps.

[BobbyFord]

...and don't allow the Ultra-Black to "skin over" before assembly; assemble while silicone is wet.

[69rangerman]

See...I had better luck letting the ultra black set up for 15-20 minutes or so. The first time I installed the intake when the rtv was wet and it squished out and was leaking oil immediately.

The second time I used a larger bead and let it set up about 20 minutes. Over the next 1/2 hour it took to make 3 passes around the intake bolts it set up even more but was still flexible enough to seal. It hasn't leaked yet.

Without the PCV you do tend to get more pressure inside the engine which can force the leak.

Get every speck off the gasket area, and wipe down several times with acetone which will pull up all the oils - same thing on the intake side.

Good luck!

[rubiranch]

I like the cork gaskets myself.

I put a skin thin layer of black silicone and set the gasket in place and let it set for an hour or even longer. This assures that it wont move when I set the intake in place.

I've had my intake on this truck off twice and so far no leak. Years ago I used to R&R FE intakes all the time to fix oil leaks.

[fordman]

you hav eto make sure the block and intake are oil free. i used the cork or rubber gasket i cant remember now. but i think it was cork. i also used the blue silicone. i first glued the cork to the blcok and let it dry overnight. i then put more blue stuff on it in th mornign and put the cast iron intake back on it. i haven't had a leak since. don't forget to put the silicone in the corners betweent the heads and blcok meeting surface. that is a place they always start leaking first unless the gasket blows out. after awhile the cork will get oil soaked and leak dribble after awhie though. i thin the rubber ones are the best at stopping all leakage from that area.

[willowbilly3]

I use Toyota silicon (FIPG) Also are you letting it cure before starting the engine? And what about the little water hose? Are you trying to slide it on as you install the intake? I take a hacksaw and whack about 1/2" off the pipe (waterpump side) that way you can slide that little hose in later and not hassle with it on the intake install.
Another trick to help the gasket bite is to center punch a row of divots on the block and intake, it helps grab onto the gasket (if you use one) so it doesn't squirt out.

[binder56jd]

fe's need a hole in both valve covers--make that all gasoline pre 1980's something engines--modular--idk & don't care they have to breath-- suck from one side(passenger i think) and blow from the other

[427]

I,ve also been told its possible i have a broken or stuck ring. Is this why I might be having excesive engine pressure? The intake wasnt leaking at all and when I put the pcv kit on it it started pouring oil out the intake.

[My427stang]

First, using 3M weatherstrip adhesive on the bottom of the end gasket is the slickest thing around. Apply to the clean block and the gasket, let dry 5 minutes, then press together glue to glue. Hold for a minute, and it will lock in place.

A light wipe of silicone for lubricant across the top (and a dab in each corner where it meets the intake gasket) will allow the intake to slide across the top as it tightens.

Second, there really is no way a PCV could make it worse, unless you have a bad gasket on the adapter plate you are using for the PCV.

Just to be certain, you now have a 3/8 line or bigger from some vacuum source directly to a PCV valve on the valley AND a vented cap on the oil fill tube to allow airflow and to beathe at WOT?

If that is the case, and whatever basket that prevents oil from going to the PCV isnt plugged with sludge, then I would look to see what you have for blowby.

A leakdown test would be best, but if you pull the PCV out and the front breather cap off and just give the throttle a wing, if it makes any signficant pressure, you could be pressurizing the crankcase. However, I would look to make sure the PCV is properly set up first.

BTW the old road draft tubes worked OK, but they were really only a breather, by having a PCV you are doing a much better job evacuating the crankcase.

[DuckRyder]

I agree, I think I would start looking for what is pressurizing the crank case.

[sideoilerfe]

And what about the little water hose? Are you trying to slide it on as you install the intake? I take a hacksaw and whack about 1/2" off the pipe (waterpump side) that way you can slide that little hose in later and not hassle with it on the intake install.
Another trick to help the gasket bite is to center punch a row of divots on the block and intake, it helps grab onto the gasket (if you use one) so it doesn't squirt out.

I Just remove the water pump to be safe. It's easy enough.

[averagef250]

I've driven FE's with extreme blowby. I taped up the valve cover breather hole once in a pinch (lost the breather) and the path of least resistance was the pan gasket.

3M weatherstrip adhesive will work, but the proper stuff and stuff that works much better is gasgacinch. I use it on the intake gaskets, but hate the cork end gaskets myself, they seem to work at first, but weep in short time. Cork is not a very good gasket material period.

[My427stang]

3M weatherstrip adhesive will work, but the proper stuff and stuff that works much better is gasgacinch. I use it on the intake gaskets, but hate the cork end gaskets myself, they seem to work at first, but weep in short time. Cork is not a very good gasket material period.

My opinion is 100% opposite. Gasgacinch is OK, but it doesnt lock in place like 3M does with cork. Most people dont use the 3M correctly. Its a contact cement and gets assembled glue-glue after it dries. When done like that it doesnt move.

I have two FEs in the garage, one put together 2 years ago and the other 16 yrs ago, and both are dry as a bone.

People tend to be reluctant for some reason, but I learned that way as a shop owner, any extra time or comebacks came right out of my pay. When hanging deep over an old heavy F series radiator support, or sitting on the tire of a Lousville, I only wanted to do it once.

Now of course, everyone should use what they like best, so I am certainly not saying you are wrong, but 3M done right feels like the cork is part of the block, then a little RTV to lube the top during assembly and its good to go as fast as you can tighten bolts