Crank - No Start - Electronic Ignition - Need Advice

[Massauto]

Hello,

I'm trying to fire up a 1968 F350 with a 360 engine.

Prior tests with points showed no spark, so I replaced condenser and points with electronic ignition because everything had been sitting for 5 years.

It almost started on the first turnover of the engine once the ei was installed. Since then no sign of life.

I've put an inline spark plug tester on one of the plugs so I could see if the plug was getting spark. I get spark when it first turns over and then it doesn't spark again until I shut off the ignition and resume cranking. Repeat - 1 spark and then nothing.

Rotor is turning. Wires inside distributor are not getting in the way of the distributor moving parts.

I just can't figure why no continuous spark.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thank you.

Ron

[sargentrs]

Did you use the Pertronix unit? They're finicky about the setting of the collar in relation to the pick up. Double check your gap between the module and the collar as well as make sure the the top of the collar is flush with the top of the module. Did you bypass your reisistor wire to make sure you have a full and constant 12v going to the module? Did you swap coils to a non-resistor coil too?

[colnago]

Randy said everything I would have suggested.

You said you got one spark. Is someone else cranking the ignition while you are in the engine bay? If so, you should be bypassing the ballast resistor (different circuit for cranking than for running). Test to make sure you're getting 12V to the coil. Maybe your battery is junk, or maybe your wiring has degraded so you're not able to get 12V. Try swapping batteries, or jumping from another car.

Joseph

[Massauto]

Thanks for the advice.

I am getting 12 v to the coil with key on.

I did not bypass the resister wire and I don't believe the coil I have is a non resistor coil.

I will check these issues out to see if it resolves the issue.

Thanks.

Ron

[Massauto]

Just to follow up, I straightened out the issue with the coil. I still don't know why I wasn't getting consistent spark to the # 5 plug, but I worked backwards (or forwards if you prefer) from the battery terminals to the solenoid, to the coil. I re-seated the ground wire within the distributor directly to the plate and not to the neg terminal of the coil and then it gave consistent spark.

Strangely enough, the engine would crank but not start with the number 1 spark plug installed. Removing that plug and cranking the engine caused it to catch and run roughly (of course).

I pulled the valve cover and lo and behold there's a bent rod in the #1 exhaust spot. Hopefully, I only need to replace the bent rod and not do any further tear down. (i'm hoping it's not a stuck valve).

Anyway, I thought I'd update on the no start issue.

Thanks for the help.

Ron