I have a 1973 F100 390. I was driving and the truck just died. Now, the fuel gauge doesn't work (gotta fix the sending unit). So, I added fuel.. Tried starting it and it was hard and sluggish trying to turn over (I've noticed it being sluggish trying to start in the past month), as if the battery was dying. So, I tried to jump it off and the Starter Solenoid, started smoking.
I ran up to the part store and replaced the Starter Solenoid. Again, it was hard and sluggish trying to turn over. I then, tried jumping it off again, and it then finally turned over (it took about 5 mins).
When I got home, I turned off the engine. Tried starting it again, and now I get nothing at all.
My question, could this be a just a dead battery, or starter? I'm probably going to replace both, a starter isn't but $50. But, what worries me, is why the Starter Solenoid was smoking. I am wondering, why would a Starter Solenoid smoke, if it were just a dead battery and trying to jump it off ? or would a bad starter cause a Starter Solenoid to smoke?
Thank you for your help
Starter Solenoid Smoking
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- basketcase0302
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Re: Starter Solenoid Smoking
First from a 3rd generation DD-214 Vet thank you for your service.I have a 1973 F100 390. I was driving and the truck just died. Now, the fuel gauge doesn't work (gotta fix the sending unit). So, I added fuel.. Tried starting it and it was hard and sluggish trying to turn over (I've noticed it being sluggish trying to start in the past month), as if the battery was dying. So, I tried to jump it off and the Starter Solenoid, started smoking.
I ran up to the part store and replaced the Starter Solenoid. Again, it was hard and sluggish trying to turn over. I then, tried jumping it off again, and it then finally turned over (it took about 5 mins).
When I got home, I turned off the engine. Tried starting it again, and now I get nothing at all.
My question, could this be a just a dead battery, or starter? I'm probably going to replace both, a starter isn't but $50. But, what worries me, is why the Starter Solenoid was smoking. I am wondering, why would a Starter Solenoid smoke, if it were just a dead battery and trying to jump it off ? or would a bad starter cause a Starter Solenoid to smoke?
Thank you for your help
Somewhere in the Blue Ridge Mountains early 80's on my way home on leave my 71 Maverick almost burned to the ground. Cause...starter solenoid!
1) Check both batteries cables / cable ends / clean where they attach to the solenoid and starter and battery.
2) MAKE SURE THE SOLENOID IS GROUNDED / BOLTED TO THE FIREWALL GOOD (the small screw holes are usually stripped out / use bigger screws or move the solenoid over or up or down and make new holes).
3) Make sure you battery negative cable is properly bolted to the engine, (not the body as many shade tree guys take this short cut) the engine should have it's own ground strap from the intake to the firewall.
4) Make sure you have a fully charged battery.
5) Only then would I fly for a starter.
Any of the above will create a low voltage situation, (which will cause the solenoid to stay in a "closed" position) causing the engine to continue to turn over even after you turn the ignition switch off.
My solenoid stayed closed continuing to turn over even after I'd turned the switch off and had my key in hand desperately trying to get the hood locks off. Add to the fun no fire extinguisher, (the battery cable caught on fire-fire caught on leaking carb screw) grabbing handfuls of snow and throwing on an engine fire hundreds of miles from your home is not a good feeling!
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
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Re: Starter Solenoid Smoking
Thank's Brother ! Like wise, thank for your service as well.
That was very good information. The battery negative cable is bolted to the engine.
However, there is also a smaller negative cable that is behind the silenoid starter.
I assume, that should be moved somewhere else ?
It does appear the Silenoid Stater may have gotten loose. The bolts are old, and with my hand there is a slight movement.
I also noticed the bolt on the positive cable to the starter, was white. I'm thinking, I should replace that as well, with an insulated cable to be safe.
Thank you for your help.
That was very good information. The battery negative cable is bolted to the engine.
However, there is also a smaller negative cable that is behind the silenoid starter.
I assume, that should be moved somewhere else ?
It does appear the Silenoid Stater may have gotten loose. The bolts are old, and with my hand there is a slight movement.
I also noticed the bolt on the positive cable to the starter, was white. I'm thinking, I should replace that as well, with an insulated cable to be safe.
Thank you for your help.
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Re: Starter Solenoid Smoking
If you have a ground from the battery to the solenoid , thats a good thing . But make sure all the bolts are clean and tight.SemperFi wrote:However, there is also a smaller negative cable that is behind the silenoid starter.
- basketcase0302
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Re: Starter Solenoid Smoking
commonly referred to as a "dedicated ground".cep62 » Tue Nov 01, 2016 9:12 pm
SemperFi wrote:
However, there is also a smaller negative cable that is behind the silenoid starter.
If you have a ground from the battery to the solenoid , thats a good thing . But make sure all the bolts are clean and tight.
I got tired of chasing crappy ground issues on my truck and started running dedicated grounds to every circuit I worked on-never looked back.
I know it's hard to do, (so hard to reach around the front fender by yourself) but putting bolts backed up with nuts is the ticket here-you'll be glad you did. Quite welcome for my service as well.
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4