Need help with dash wiring...Pink resistance wire & oil sending wire

[Bryan_Tenn]

I had some wiring that looked bad behind the instrument panel in my 72. Turns out that it looked a lot worse than it is. I HATE dealing with electrical issues, but trying to figure this out & do it the easiest way.

It appears that the blue wire out of the ignition switch got hot & every few inches its mangled. That wire goes to the idle solenoid which I do not need because I'm gonna use a Holley.

BUT, it also messed the pink resistance wire up in a few places going to the coil. Since my plan is to use an electronic distributor, do I need this resistance wire? Can I just do away with it & run a regular wire in its place that will carry 12 volts? Also, can I do away completely with the blue wire?

I guess I just need to get 12 volts to the coil so whats the easiest way to do that & get rid of the pink wire?

Also, I have an idiot light for the oil in my cluster. I have another cluster that has the oil pressure gauge. Do I just need to change the sending unit on my engine or is the wiring different going to the cluster, I havent gotten that far yet. Schematic shows white-red going from sender/switch to cluster, I want to know if the wiring is completely different in the different cluster. If so, what do I need to do to use the cluster with the gauges?

I plan on running a separate mechanical oil pressure/temp/volt gauge but I just like the looks of the gauges in the dash & would like them to work if theyre gonna be there.

[Bryan_Tenn]

Also, it looks like the harness may have rubbed the dash where it attaches behing the cluster & finally ate through the tape & thru the blue wire, finally thru the insulation & rubbing the metal & thats what caused it to get hot & burn up.

Does this sound like a possibility? What would cause that blue wire to do that if this isnt the case?

[BobbyFord]

Running 12V to your ignition will toast your points prematurely. You need the resistance wire or an inline, Chrysler type ballast resistor.
Gauge type instrument harness also requires the use of a gauge type alt/reg harness.

[Bryan_Tenn]

Running 12V to your ignition will toast your points prematurely. You need the resistance wire or an inline, Chrysler type ballast resistor.
Gauge type instrument harness also requires the use of a gauge type alt/reg harness.

like I said, I'm not gonna run points

[BobbyFord]

Find out what your new distributor requires.

[Bryan_Tenn]

I dont know what distributor Im gonna use yet, but it will be an aftermarket electronic, so I guess I will just wire it back up the way it is for now. I'm gonna get the rest of it done, wiring, interior, etc.. before I get the engine in so I'm on the lookout for a good used MSD

[sargentrs]

I recommend an OEM Duraspark set up from a '77ish F150. The distributor and ignition box are available at your local auto parts store (around $130 for both). All you'll need is the harnesses, junk yard find, or you can rig your own wiring. Good, reliable electronic ignition.

[Bryan_Tenn]

ok, so for the moment, Im trying to get my dash wiring all secured

Knowing I will not be using points or needing the throttle solenoid, what do i need to do with the pink & blue wire?