Used SeaFoam but NO white smoke

[socalcraigster]

Ok, I bought 1 pint of SeaFoam based on the reviews here for my 69 250CS.

I followed the directions - 1/3 in the carb, 1/3 in crankcase, 1/3 in tank according to the web site.

And guess what? <drumroll> Nothing happened!

It seemed to run a bit better.

I did just rebuilt the Autolite 2bbl carb. But no smoke. I was kinda looking forward to it.

So I called the company and spoke to a rep. He told me that there have been times when the product is used and there is no visable effect. And he did not know the reason why. He said it might just be that the engine does not have any (carbon?) build up.

If someone can give me there , I would be thankful.

[fordman]

i dumped a whole pint in my gas tank and it didnt do anything. but the problem was a bad fuel pump so there may not have been anything for it to clean up.

[1967AceStroker]

I added a whole pint split between my two gas tanks and I didn't see any white smoke either. My dad suggested it to clean the injectors in my truck.

[BobbyFord]

Us west coast folks don't believe in seafoam...

[Redcap]

Us west coast folks don't believe in seafoam...

The hell we don't.

[old_mare]

[cdeal28078]

One use of it is to clean the tops of pistons and valves. Many people will pour the hole pint in the carb revving the engine at the same time to keep the engine running then about halfway through the can pour it fast and let it kill the engine. Then lat it sit a while and soak. Then when you crank it back up you get some smoke.
clint

[BobbyFord]

Seafoam = snake oil.

[Redcap]

Seafoam = snake oil.

Says someone that has never used it.

[BobbyFord]

Says someone that never had a reason to use it.

[AlleyCat]

One use of it is to clean the tops of pistons and valves. Many people will pour the hole pint in the carb revving the engine at the same time to keep the engine running then about halfway through the can pour it fast and let it kill the engine. Then lat it sit a while and soak. Then when you crank it back up you get some smoke.
clint

On carbed engines you can accomplish the same result with plain water. I've done it countless times but never deliberately stalled them. GM used to make a product called Carbon X that did the same thing as Seafoam. I kept an empty Carbon X can in my tool box for years. Any time I got a tune up I'd fill the can with water before the buggy came into the shop. Most folks were very happy to see me using special chemicals to make sure their ride was running right.

[SecondCamperSpecial]

Water down the carb works for that but not in the gas tank LOL. I have been using seafoam for 20 years. If you dont like it then dont use it. I will keep using it. I use it in my powered toys in the spring and fall and never have to clean the carbs. MY friends that dont believe in it clean there carbs every year. When you pour the 1/3 can in the carb kill the engine with it and let is sit for 10 to 30 minutes. If you got no smoke you had no carbon.

[Redcap]

Says someone that never had a reason to use it.

[BobbyFord]

OK, here's my take on snake oil additives such as seafoam, oil stabilizers, Prolong, Slick 50 and other miracle-in-a-botlle cures.

If there actually were a product that when added to the oil, would extend the life of an internal combustion engine then the it would already be a component in motor oil.
Like SecondCamperSpecial said, plain old water down the carb is all that is necessary to de-carbon an engine (and was actually recommended by Jeep/Chrysler to cure carbon knock in 4.2l inline sixes.)
During my Ford and GM FWD auto trans training we were told to stay away from and to NEVER add ANYTHING but transmission fluid to an auto trans.
I was a light/heavy line tech for Ford and am factory trained, I'm also Jeep/Chrysler trained, have taken courses at Tech colleges including Peugeot manual transmissions as well as other courses put on by tool and equipment suppliers. At no time during my tech training were we ever instructed to use an additive of any kind to cure a mechanical issue. We were taught to use tools to repair engines and transmissions.
I guess if you are looking for a cure to a mechanical problem and believe that you will find one in a bottle on a shelf at your local Autozone then it just may work for you. JMO.

[Redcap]

OK, here's my take on snake oil additives such as seafoam, oil stabilizers, Prolong, Slick 50 and other miracle-in-a-botlle cures.

If there actually were a product that when added to the oil, would extend the life of an internal combustion engine then the it would already be a component in motor oil.
Like SecondCamperSpecial said, plain old water down the carb is all that is necessary to de-carbon an engine (and was actually recommended by Jeep/Chrysler to cure carbon knock in 4.2l inline sixes.)
During my Ford and GM FWD auto trans training we were told to stay away from and to NEVER add ANYTHING but transmission fluid to an auto trans.
I was a light/heavy line tech for Ford and am factory trained, I'm also Jeep/Chrysler trained, have taken courses at Tech colleges including Peugeot manual transmissions as well as other courses put on by tool and equipment suppliers. At no time during my tech training were we ever instructed to use an additive of any kind to cure a mechanical issue. We were taught to use tools to repair engines and transmissions.
I guess if you are looking for a cure to a mechanical problem and believe that you will find one in a bottle on a shelf at your local Autozone then it just may work for you. JMO.

Who said anything about it curing a mechanical issue? It does a great job of de-funking the inside of your engine, which isn't so critical on a FE, but can work wonders on little Jap rigs like Subarus (which start making all sorts of interesting noises once they get up there in mileage) and this stuff cleans them out when added to the oil. Yeah, Seafoam doesn't do all the crap it says on the can...but it does have an application. You have some training. Great. No one asked or probably cares. And who was talking about auto transmissions besides you?