truck security

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sacramento_ford
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truck security

Post by sacramento_ford »

i realize i pretty much set my truck to get stolen, hood open , this thing is so easy to get into, what can i do to avoid a nightmare of coming out to a missing truck ,,, any ideas... i got the best looking truck in my city of 200,000 theres another one thats nice but its lowered, that dont count,. hahah
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Re: truck security

Post by fordman »

put those locks they have for wing windows on it. and make a jimmy blocker inside the door. and then for a quick solution put a chain and padlock in the hood and around the core support.
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Re: truck security

Post by bb429power »

I'm putting a locking hood pin kit on mine. I requires a key.

How do you make a jimmy blocker?
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guerra
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Re: truck security

Post by guerra »

First dont "set your truck to get stolen" lock the doors, shut the hood. park where you can watch it. if its night park in a area with good lighting. buy an alarm system to alert you if someone is around it. and try to be aware of things going on around you.
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Ranchero50
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Re: truck security

Post by Ranchero50 »

Well, night lights just help the thieves see better.

The alarm is a decent idea.

12" of chain cut in half, welded to the hood and core support with a lock in between is a pain but it works.

As said before, a three on the tree will stop anyone from stealing it :)

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Re: truck security

Post by GSequoia »

I have the following security systems on my truck, they're not currently active since it's all beat up and dull now but when I make it shiny I'll use them again.

1: Battery kill switch in discrete location that is easy to access. That kills the battery completely, not just the ignition circuit.
2: Door locks, OEM Ford. ;)
3: Electronic hood lock. This consists of a shaft with a large head, an electric solenoid that mates to that shaft (normally closed, i.e. with no power it will hold the shaft in place, when you give it power it will release the shaft). The system is set up with a wire going from a hot location to a switch under the dash, this allows it to work (so you normally have this switch off), that switch then leads to the solenoid + wire. The Solenoid - wire leads to a momentary switch in an easy to access but discreet place behind the grille, when holding that switch you will give the solenoid ground (the solenoid is otherwise isolated from ground otherwise). To open the hood you first flip the arming switch under the dash to on then with one hand you hold the momentary trigger switch while you manipulate the OEM hood latch with the other hand. This is mostly invisible from the outside to the untrained eye. The nifty part is the solenoid is capable of being powered by a simple 9V battery as well so when I get everything going again I plan to put a 9V battery pigtail in somewhere in case my battery is dead and I have to get in.
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Re: truck security

Post by bb429power »

I had it saved but I had to google it to find it.
http://www.amazon.com/Megatronix-Foot-M ... B00262P71W
Justin
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http://s976.photobucket.com/home/bb429power/allalbums go to both of the albums.
1967 Ford F100 longbed with a 466 500+hp/600+ft-lbs (mine)
1969 Mercury Cougar xr7 with a 351w (dads, I helped alot)
1970 Ford Maverick with a 302 (became our drag car)
1986 f150 5.0 (my DD)
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Re: truck security

Post by Doug Comer »

Take the rotor out of the distibutor.
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Re: truck security

Post by bb429power »

Or the coil wire.
Justin
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=47482
http://s976.photobucket.com/home/bb429power/allalbums go to both of the albums.
1967 Ford F100 longbed with a 466 500+hp/600+ft-lbs (mine)
1969 Mercury Cougar xr7 with a 351w (dads, I helped alot)
1970 Ford Maverick with a 302 (became our drag car)
1986 f150 5.0 (my DD)
"Many can argue, but it takes a real man to apologize."-Me
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Re: truck security

Post by TheEskimo »

Doug Comer wrote:Take the rotor out of the distibutor.
bb429power wrote:Or the coil wire.
Easy, and they both fit in your pocket.
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Re: truck security

Post by averagef250 »

Leave the doors unlocked. Mount an air horn under the seat or dash connected to a 200 cuft CO2 bottle regulated to 150 PSI. Hook the electric horn valve to your dome light circuit.
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Re: truck security

Post by GSequoia »

averagef250 wrote:Leave the doors unlocked. Mount an air horn under the seat or dash connected to a 200 cuft CO2 bottle regulated to 150 PSI. Hook the electric horn valve to your dome light circuit.
But then the seat cleaning fees stack up.
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1966 Rustang (289 / C4 Project stalled for ages)
1989 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D44 / 35's)
1996 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D35)
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Re: truck security

Post by flyboy2610 »

GSequoia wrote:
averagef250 wrote:Leave the doors unlocked. Mount an air horn under the seat or dash connected to a 200 cuft CO2 bottle regulated to 150 PSI. Hook the electric horn valve to your dome light circuit.
But then the seat cleaning fees stack up.
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Re: truck security

Post by BobbyFord »

My brother-in-law had a 110 decibel siren INSIDE his 67 Fastback, on a 10 second delay. His Mustang never got stolen.
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Re: truck security

Post by averagef250 »

GSequoia wrote:
averagef250 wrote:Leave the doors unlocked. Mount an air horn under the seat or dash connected to a 200 cuft CO2 bottle regulated to 150 PSI. Hook the electric horn valve to your dome light circuit.
But then the seat cleaning fees stack up.
If you put a delay on it you might have some seat cleaning. If it's instant with the dome light they'll never get to the seat.

I've heard some great stories about air horns used as security measures, reportedly they're hard to beat. It'd be super great if you had it on a 30 second or so delay, but just before the air horn is set to go off the doors lock, the window regulators are stuck up (somehow) and all power is killed so no light inside the cab. Let him stay in the cab until his ears bleed!
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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