My "$50 Paintjob" has begun... [LG. PICS]

[FORDification]

Just to get those of you up-to-date who haven't followed this thread, a link was posted to a very lengthy thread in a Mopar forum where they were discussing painting a car with roll-on/brush-on Rustoleum. After spending several evenings reading through the entire thread, I was intrigued and I decided to give this a try. About a month ago I got the supplies I needed, but haven't been able to get started on it until now.

Anyway, I finally got started today. I decided that until I get the hang of it, and until I'm 100% convinced that this IS what I want to do, I'm just going to be painting a single front fender, going through all the steps of applying two layers and then wetsanding, and then repeating at least 3 more times. Then, if I decide I don't like the results, I can just strip the fender back down to bare metal and go from there.

So anyway....here's a picture of the bare fender I started with:



....and here's a shot of the fender with the first coat applied:



As you can see, the paint is applied in very thin layers. You won't actually get full solid coverage until at least the third coat. I kinda started getting a little worried here, because this was supposed to be a very dark blue called 'Aftermidnite Blue', but it's sure not looking like that to me!

....and a shot after applying the second coat:



OK, now I'm definitely upset. It's NOT the dark blue it was supposed to be. It'll get a little darker as additional coats are applied, but it's definitely not what I was hoping for. Oh well, it's not a major problem....it just means that for the final couple coats I'll have to mix some black in with the remainder of the paint to darken it up.

In the last picture you can definitely see the orange-peel effect. This is normal, and will be wet-sanded out after every other coat. That's what I'll be doing tomorrow morning, and then applying two more coats. Also, there's a trial-and-error method of thinning the paint AND in applying it, until you get the hang of it. I believe I did well applying the first coat, but think I got it a little heavy on the second. Also, I don't think I thinned it enough, because it should have layed down a little smoother. No big deal, that's easily remedied for future layers.

Anyway, like I said, I'll be hitting the shop bright and early in the morning, so that I'll have time to wet-sand this fender and apply the third coat, and then let it set up for the required 6-7 hours or so before applying the fourth coat. I'll post more pics tomorrow night.

[FoMoCo]

Keith what ever you do dont add black to darken it up. That will turn it grey. You have to add maroons and violets to darken blue. Like wise adding white does not lighten the color it just milks it out.

Nick

[FORDification]

Oh really? Cool....thanks for letting me know before I did that. I run a printing press for a living, and that's how I custom-mix ink, so I guess I figured it would work for paint too. Oh well....learn something new every day.

So what would you recommend I get to turn this into a very deep blue, almost black?

[460 crew]

Got my eyes on this one. I want to see the finish product. Thanks for taking the dive Keith

[heep70]

Ya, I wanna see what happens here.

[rjewkes]

ive been noticing the new cars have that "orange Peel" Effect under the clear coat from factory.

[shanmeg1]

Yeah the technique is really in the mixing and sanding part. We have had some high humidity here in jersey so I had to really thin it because of it otherwise it really orange peels on me. By the way the fender looks good and is easier than the door I just did. John

[69F110]

Keith,

I've been catching up on posts and this does indeed sound like a great deal...after midnight blue does sound like it would be darker...but for 50 bucks...you can't beat it. That Charger looked pretty good.

I have copied and pasted his method to a word document for when I get back to the States.

I can't wait...but until then, I will be watching your progress.

Thanks again man!

[DuckRyder]

Thinning so much it probably lightens it as well.

I admit to not reading the other thread, but the primer can definitely effect the final color since it appears you went over bare metal (no primer sealer?) I can see the silver metal lightening it quite a bit as well.

I know you only want to start with the one fender, but you might try hitting another one with black or red oxide rattle can primer and then doing it to see how that changes the color.

[crazy larry]

if'n i'm not mistaken, I believe rustoleum makes a brush on primer also.....

what did the guy with the charger say about primer???? I'd hate to go read that whole thread again.....

keep on keepin' on. looking forward to the end results....

[67f100]

Wow! The BIG reason my truck isn't painted is the cost. I just read and saved the thread from the mopar page and am totally hooked on the results of Keith's painting this fender. Like most old car/truck nuts I have way more time than money. This deal just might be the ticket for an awesome budget paint job. And the stuff is durable. rick

[rjewkes]

He said he just roughend up the old paint.

Primer would most definitley add some darkness to the blue.

[binder56jd]

thanks Keith-this is a very interesting paint process

[CJ,s 67 F100]

Ok, I just finished painting the ranch hand front end replacement I took off my 05 F250 and saved for my 06 F250. The reason I have not put it on my 06 was because I had it painted it white to match my white 05. I did not take pictures after every coat. I ended up with 6 coats. I sanded after every coat. 400 grit for the first 2 coats, 600 grit for coat 3 and 4, then 800 grit after coat 5. It would have been fine to stop after coat 5 but I wanted to see it after the 800 grit sand. I do not recommend painting tread plate this way. About all you can sand is the thread parts. I got the orange peel after the first 3 coats. I also had big fish eyes at first. I cleaned the bumper with the zylene first and no sanding then wiped it off good with acetone. I used my acetone as my thinner and mixed it I would guess a 15-20% cut. This was probably to much cut but this stuff was very forgiving to me. I had the zylene and acetone so with 6.95 for a quart of Rustoleum and sand paper I have a $16.95 paint job. I applied a coat every 12 hours. The temp here never got below 85 and a humidity below 75%. 106 was the high one day so my paint dried fast.

[hardtailjohn]

Once your coat has been applied, if you can drop the temp, to lets say 55 or 60 degrees, it will let the paint "level" and flow out... it's also going to take alot longer to dry, but if you'd rather wait than sand, it's an option. You may have to play with temps and humidity (I'm not familliar with Rustoleum) but alot can be done to a finish by regulating those two factors.
JH