Help.....

[johnny55]

today I watched how all the cables go from the voltage regulator ??

[sargentrs]

Close, but still a little off. The S terminal on the VR should connect to the S stud on the alternator. The wire you have on the A terminal splices to the wire from The BAT terminal and then to the solenoid, through your fuse, but does not connect to the 3 prong plug like you've drawn. The triangular shaped 3 prong plug in your fender harness plugs into your horn relay. A wire should go from the I terminal, not the S terminal, to the 2 prong plug. The wire you show connected to the A terminal (you've drawn a noise filter) is just a spare constant hot circuit and not really necessary. Make sense?

[johnny55]

What do you think about this sargentrs?
is this connection right to do? I'm getting a little tired now haha. I will buy new cables on Friday and if the weather is good and not snowing and raining here so I will try to replace all these cables and connect like this. Am I on the right track or is it crazy?
see Figure 8
these connections do not know what they're called but here goes the cables into? See picture

[johnny55]

It was on this cable that burned up in the car five months ago which has caused broblem for me.
Therefore, I have put a fuse holder 25 amps and linked them together cables and then started well and worked 2-3 times but then every time I turned off the engine with the key and started again so went fuse broken. so here i have it where every time now before I try to find the problem

[sargentrs]

First of all, forget that 2 prong plug and 3 prong plug coming from your harness on the fender. The 2 prong plug is just for your horn circuit, unplug it at the connector. The 3 prong plug is not part of the circuit. Leave it alone for now but don't have it's wire connecting to the Vr, alternator, or solenoid. Focus your attention on the VR-alternator-solenoid wiring for now. Reference the picture below and let me know if you understand it. You can leave the "I" terminal on the voltage regulator unplugged for now. The "S" and "F" terminals on the VR are single wire connections straight to the "S" terminal and the FLD terminals on the alternator. No other wires go between those 2 places. The "A" terminal on the VR splices to the BAT terminal wire and then to your inline fuse, then to the solenoid. Once you have that wired, we'll move on to the ignition circuit.

[sargentrs]

One more thing. Just so we don't get confused at some point, PLEASE replace or swap your battery cables so the + is red and the - is black. I don't how many times me or my friends have almost messed up because the battery cables were the wrong color!

[johnny55]

Thank you very much Sargentrs
I'm glad you have the desire to help me
Now we shall see if I understand correctly, I have painted in your drawing that I did not understand.
No. 1 I do not use and do not have the horn section. My horn is not engaged and does not work and this becomes another job later
No.2. what is this for a cable? Where is it?
No.3. S have I not on my alternator ?? See the picture on my alternator that I have up here. (Page 1)
No.4. what is this, it is my greens red stripe that goes there?

Well, I shall replace my battery cables for that was the mistake I made. Red cable was negative and the black wire was Pluss. Not good. It was a big white cloud and just problem after 

[sargentrs]

Rough day so haven't had much time to work on your problem.

Looks like a previous owner of your truck may have done quite a bit of modification to your original wiring. None of the colors of your wires, and some of the connections, come any where close to any of the diagrams. Go ahead and cut/remove the tape from the harness that is in your photos, the one laying on the fender under your solenoid. Remove enough tape so that you can get to the original wires so we see the original wire colors. It's still possible they won't match the diagrams but at least we'll know for sure. This will also show us the extent of the damage to the wiring and see how far back it may have melted. If possible, strip it all the way back to the next plug/connector you find.

Do you have a good digital multimeter? And do you know how to use one? Once we have the wiring sorted out, we can begin troubleshooting the ignition and see if we can't get her to run.

Are you still using points? Go ahead and buy a new condenser. The one you have is probably shorted out from the mishap. This is a common problem with losing power to the ignition. Are your points in good shape and set properly? Check the contacts for burn marks.

[sargentrs]

Got a little time today so let's take another look.

Now we shall see if I understand correctly, I have painted in your drawing that I did not understand.
No. 1 I do not use and do not have the horn section. My horn is not engaged and does not work and this becomes another job later
Ok, let's forget the horn relay for now.
No.2. what is this for a cable? Where is it?
This is the power feed from the harness to the horn relay. Don't worry about that for now either.
No.3. S have I not on my alternator ?? See the picture on my alternator that I have up here. (Page 1)
You do have an S terminal on both in both of those photos. When I zoom in on them I can see the S embossed into the case. I have circled it in
both photos below.
No.4. what is this, it is my greens red stripe that goes there?
This is the plug I have circled in blue below. This is also part of the horn relay circuit and not important for now.

The 3 prong plug I have also circled in yellow below, I think, is part of the headlight circuit, although the colors don't appear to match the diagram. No need to worry about that one either, for now. The triangular plug I circled in red is just the horn relay plug and not needed either.

Also, there are 2 different ways to wire the VR to the alternator depending on whether or not your instrument cluster has gauges or "idiot" lights. '67-'69 used lights, '70+ used gauges. Here's a good diagram that shows both ways. http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=74252 This may be why we're getting confused on the colors of the wires. They appear to the different depending on which configuration you have. With gauges, the "S" terminal on the alternator and the "I" terminal on the VR are not used. With only idiot lights they both are. Beginning to make more sense. The only connections that are mandatory right now are the FLD, BATT and Ground. If you take my sketch and eliminate the "I" wiring and the "S" wiring, the alternator and voltage regulator should be able to function. The first of your diagrams above, with the A terminal splicing to the BAT terminal then to your fuse will work.

[johnny55]

thank sargentrs
Now I will soon be out of the car and strip the wires and take a picture of them as you shall see. The fun of it all is that Ford has worked to drive with these cable connections sitting in right now. Very strange it here. Great tipps you give to call into colors. The blue ring that you circled this is where my green red stripe goes into touch from S and the other goes to my horn. On my alternator so I s there but it was not any cable connected to when I bought the car and when I switched to a new one and the same model of the alternator so I switched on the same wires at alternator. And it worked well. Never use the S pin of the alternator ??
That not your instrument cluster has gauges or "idiot" lights. '67 -'69 Used lights, '70 + Used gauges I do not believe I have ?? How do I know and how I see it ?? Is there any lamp that sits in the dashboard ??
hope you can read my bad English is not easy to write the right words, and how I'm going to get it down in words.

Now I look out and little in the engine compartment. I will return. Have a good day / Johnny

[sargentrs]

Here are photos and an explanation of the different instrument clusters, lights vs gauges, under the section on grills. http://www.fordification.com/tech/67-72ID_01.htm

[johnny55]

A fast track? Humm do not think I have it. This is what my Ford out.

[johnny55]

now I peeled off all cover cables and so it looks like this
bild 10 is go to S

[johnny55]

more..

[johnny55]

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