1959 hub retaining screws

[Bonham]

My 1959 Ford B-600 needs attention to the brakes on that left rear. The wheel studs are left hand thread. the 3 retaining screws that secure the hub are being stubborn and wont budge with impact screwdriver. I want to make sure im turning them the correct way. Are they right tight, left loose like everything else or they left hand too?
anyone know?

[fastEdsel]

Are you trying to remove the brake drum from the axle? I just did my 1956 Chevrolet 1700 series 3 ton and the screws are right hand thread, brass screws. All the wheel studs are right hand thread and 1 3/16" socket size. When I got the rear duals removed I did see the screws and my heart sank. I do have an impact screwdriver so soaked up with warm WD40 I smacked the screws and they all came out, 3 per side. Next came the brake drums which took multiple smacks with a 3 pound blacksmith hammer on the rear of the drum to remove from the shoe pressure, released as much as possible of course, and all inside was exposed. Good luck, keep some band aids close, you may need some heat on those heads. Hope this helps.

[Bonham]

Exactly, trying to remove the drum from axel. Thanks for the response. I'll put some heat on it today and hope they will come out.

[Bonham]

The heat did the trick. last one I had to hit it with water after heated up.

[fastEdsel]

When I got my Chevy apart I already knew the brake cylinders were shot. I asked about new brake cylinders at the NAPA and holy cow you would think I hit them with a plank! No idea, trucks too old, you're screwed! So I called Carquest. He had 2 on the shelf and 2 more in a nearby city! The parts are 1 1/2", 4 used, 2 per side and fairly easy to switch out. Take pictures, make notes. Replace all the copper washers. Mine also has a Wagner casting number on it and was cross referenced to the proper Carquest part number. The rear axle is an Eaton axel with an electric 2 speed shifter. These axels were made for Ford, GM, International and Dodge trucks. 9.00X20 inch bud wheels. The axel doesn't know what kind of truck it's on so don't know what NAPA's problem is. I also overhauled the front cylinders, one per side with 7/8" bore. So, happy and no leaks, brakes bled I still had little brake power. The LT1 350 is pulling a strong 18 inches vacuum also. As VERY good luck would have it, a very knowledgeable parts man actually found me a proper brand new, Bendix Hydrovac still in the box so when I get that all installed I will report back. I know these units are old but are worth nothing if you have them but worth a lot more if you don't have them IMO. Still cheaper than a girlfriend, no one bugs you when you are covered in 90W gear oil and the end result is still personal satisfaction for repairing something neat.

[tsherry]

I can take in a wheel cylinder off the car or truck into NAPA, have them match it up, and I walk out with change from a twenty. I've done this with cylinders for vehicles that they don't even have in the catalog, my '37 and '40 Packards in particular. You need to get onto a knowledgeable forum (like this one) ask around, check the inevitable posts from other people that have been down this road before, and build on that.

There are a lot of wheel cylinders out there but there is not an infinite variety, and all were supplied by third-party vendors to GM, Ford, Chrysler and all of the others. You might need to cobble together a different hydraulic fitting at the hard-line or flex-line end, but you should be able to find a brand new one without too much trouble.

Regarding boosters, it's often better to have yours rebuilt--if you can find a local heavy truck mechanic specializing in stuff like that, takes about a week.

[fastEdsel]

Most certainly all NAPA stores are not the same and have very good luck with others in nearby towns and cities. This one in question is in my home town and owned by my younger brother. And it wasn't my brother I was dealing with but another employee who is no longer there. An inquiry was made to the management who went to bat for the employee in question and just shrugged it off so with others with the same complaint about other items they were shopping for, we are now seeking other stores to purchase from, including NAPA in other towns.

I was seeking out a overhaul shop for my hydrovac unit when the parts store, Silver Automotive, I took the unit to said he had a new unit in a box, just two days away. And of course if it is overhauled at a designated shop and tagged by them it may eliminate the possibility of any litigation if there is an accident. The repair, overhaul kits are available out there, somewhere, but being in the aviation business for most of 40 years I kinda know about what can be rebuilt, tagged, and that entry made in the appropriate maintenance journals and what I can do by myself. So my NOS hydrovac is on it's way and like I mentioned before I will report back. BTW, all the brake overhaul parts I used when I restored my '59 Edsel Corsair were supplied by my brother's NAPA store, still running very strong and good brakes. Also my youngest son who is a red seal Journeyman Parts Person made a request for a pic of the data plate for our Edsel to be forwarded to some Edsel enthusiasts. I did, he said the internet lit up, turns out this car which was ordered by my parents in 1958 is one of one. Pretty cool! Will also send off my current hydrovac unit for proper overhaul.

[Bonham]

You remove the axel nuts off spindle and the hub comes right off. Three retainer screw have nothing to do with removing hub

[1972hiboy]

You remove the axel nuts off spindle and the hub comes right off. Three retainer screw have nothing to do with removing hub

The tapered head machine screws that that retain the drum should all be right hand thread regardless of lug nut thread. At least that's what I have found. When do we get to see pics??