Positive camber

[jzjames]

My truck is eating tires.

The outside edge of the FR tire gets chewed off in short order and I think it must be due to excessive + camber on that wheel. Finding a shop that can do an alignment on these trucks with the twin I-beam is impossible so I am trying to consider my options.
I had new kingpins and bushings put in a couple years ago, could the installation of the polyurethane bushings affect the wheel camber? Something about the tires need to be on the ground when installing them?

I’m also looking at the springs wondering if I should put on a new set. I cant tell that there is any sagging of the springs, - and a positive camber would have to mean a spring was riding too high, right?

Should I throw on a new front springs?

The manual shows how to correct the camber - bend the I-beams. and somehow I dont see that happening.

[basketcase0302]

JZ prob not much help but will bump it back to the top.

I do know the coil springs, (your trucks not leaf front springs right?) changes the caster/camber like your asking. I'd had that happen when lifting my old Bronco and older brother's Mustang, (when he'd cut springs to lower for better stance).

Is there not a front end shop within 100 miles of you, (I'd break out the phone book and also ask every single local mechanic nearby if they knew of one)?

And over the years I'd never heard of anyone here stating changing the kingpin bushings "unloaded" (not sitting on the ground) adversely effecting the caster/camber. Is there any chance the truck had hit something, (even knowing you've owned it for many years-possibly before you got the truck) changing the caster camber and now the new kingpin bushings has exaggerated the bend in the beam?

And how are the radius arm bushings, (any vibration from that wheel at high speeds)?

[cash667]

If your driving your truck unloaded most of the time I think it´s kind of normal that you have a bit positive camber. I think the whole front geometry is set for loaded operation. If you have a lighter engine than stock this could also affect front end geometry.

did you change the radius arm bushings to poly too? The ones which connect radius arm to frame?
If so I could imagine that the radius arm want´s to push the I beam down if you fasten the adjustment nut on the poly bushings to hard. Rubber bushings will set themselves more in the metal than the poly will, so there is less movement in the connection radiusarm - frame with polys...does that makes sence?

You just could try to release the adjustment nut on the radius arms a few turns and see if it´s getting better..

Chris

[jzjames]

Yes the radius arm bushings is what I’m talking about. I had them done when I did the new kingpins.
The truck is a shortbed with the 300-six, and yes, mostly used as everyday transportation.

Owned it for 20 years, and always had trouble with the uneven wear on the front tires - but I knew that one kingpin was worn and thought that was the problem. And yes it had had a SMALL bump on that fender in the front when I got it. Just the typical ding in the bump line at the front, but who knows if the wheel had been crunched.

Just put on another set of Cooper tires on the front and sure wish I could get the alignment right!

I’v have asked around about where I might get it checked out at an alignment shop but that is no go here in
W. Washington. -OF COURSE! - It’s not a Toyota!

I may loosen the big nut on the radius arm bushings and re-tighten? While the truck sits on the ground??

[cash667]

do you know if the truck was a factory 300 six or was converted by a previous owner?
Maybe someone changed the front springs and used springs for a 8 cylinder truck, there is a difference in 6 cylinder vs 8 cylinder springs. But I have no idea how to find out if you may have the wrong springs on the front...

For the radius arm nuts:
yes - just see if the front end moves up ur down (take a measurement on the bumpline to verify movement) when you loosen the nut or even tighten it more than before. I think you need to drive a few feet with the nuts a bit loose to get the front end set.

[jzjames]

Thanks.
Im pretty sure this is an all original truck with the inline-six. I believe it was an Oregon DOT vehicle at one time.

Im going to look at the springs further, is it possible they were not properly seated in the spring seats when everything was put back together from the king pins service?
And retighten the new radius arm bushings that were installed.

Front end geometry - I dont think mine is right.

[cep62]

https://www.autozone.com/parts/suspensi ... ner/541730
There's these gizmos , made to spread the coils or turn them around and clamp the coils down.
They're crude but might help .

[basketcase0302]

JZ when yuou look at the coils also look closely at how they are "indexed" in the top and bottom seat/bracket(s).
I've seen a few Fords where is was possible to turn the coils out of index causing them to throw things out of alignment.
The early Bronco's had a fixed "index" built into the bottom bracket, (pretty sure our trucks did also) that the bottom of the coil spring turns to drop down into.

[jzjames]

Thanks. I think you are right. I’m gonna do my best to fix this alignment.