Dash Cluster lights

[tyler67f100]

The signals work, the alt and oil light work, just not the dash light that lights the cluster up. I took it out and checked the bulbs and they work, just not while plugged into the harness.

[Lee]

Hi,

See: http://fordification.com/tech/wiring/wi ... lights.jpg

Is the 2amp fuse good?

Is the cluster grounded by wire #57 ?

Lee

[tyler67f100]

Are those two fuses in the fuse box vertical? I will add a picture of the box when I get back to my house

[basketcase0302]

"tyler67f100"]Are those two fuses in the fuse box vertical? I will add a picture of the box when I get back to my house

The 2 amp fuse that Lee is talking about is the smallest one in the fuse box Tyler, (1/2" long you can barely see glass between the two ends).

You'll also want to check for voltage to the instrument cluster lights as most of the time the fault will be the headlight switch itself. There is a potentiometer built into the headlight switch itself that determines how much voltage the lights on the panel get, (it looks like a spring that circles the front of the headlight switch). The contact point on it wears out from being turned and is a fairly common part to replace on our bumps, (the headlight switch).
You can see the spring and copper contact point on this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dash-Mounted-H ... de&vxp=mtr

[tyler67f100]

This is my fuse box that I have, I have a spotlight that was installed stock i believe it was a ranger truck or a utility truck. Or hunting, it could go on forever.

[basketcase0302]

The small fuse in the center is for the instrument cluster lights Tyler. You need to test it as it's too small for me to see the element / wire to verify if it is good. Do you have a voltage meter-can you read a voltage meter? If not-not to worry as it's real...easy to learn how and you need to know to be able to work on the bump.
You should also def rethink the three different "hot taps" hooked into your fuse panel there, (the green / the red / and the black) all three seem to be powering something. Ford sized those power sources for the branch they were originally designed to power-WITH NOTHING ELSE ADDED ONTO THE CIRCUITS.
It's more work is why no one ever does it but typically you'd need to pull a new circuit that is fused from the starter relay into the cab or to whatever needs the power. If you use circuit breakers like these you can walk away from ever having to replace blown fuses altogether.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-volt-50-Amp ... SwxehXO9Rw

[tyler67f100]

I do have a voltage reader, just not a clue how or what I should test it as. So if it is a low fuse for what it requires, that could be the issue you think? I checked all the wires behind the dash and the lights and nothing was wrong. If it is the fuse that would be awesome!!! And I hate the way they are added to the fuse box, one is to power the radio, another is to power the oil level (PSI) instrument that was added and I cant remember what the other one is without being with the truck. The only fuse that seems to keep blowing is the large fuse up top. It helps power the spot light and it keeps blowing when I turn the spotlight, I think its a bad switch. Cause I have to take the handle off and rework it everytime it trips. Thanks for all the help!! When I get back I will check the fuse and what it requires. And maybe figure out how to properly use a voltage meter..

[Lee]

Post a pic of the front of your meter,... we will tell you how to operate it... really easy once you know how.

Basically, you put the switch on the meter to read DC volts and high enough scale for 12volts.

You turn on your lights, then put the black meter lead on a good ground source (bare metal somewhere) then put the red lead on each side of the fuse.

If all is good, you will read 12v on both sides of the fuse. If you only get 12v on only one side of the fuse... it's blown and must be replaced.

If you don't get 12v on either side of the fuse,... I would troubleshoot the trucks light switch as it's not passing 12v to the fuse.

Hope this helps,

[tyler67f100]

Here is what I have. I was able to get a little understanding and checked some of the fuses, which were at 12V, I went to check the instrument panel fuse and had no power at all. I checked the wiring and found out the the (what I believe) is the black and red wire has been snipped and I can't seem to find where the missing wire is. I added a photo of that and I will also add one of my fuse panel. for help on what the top left plug is for. it has 3 large red wires and a small green one

[Lee]

Hi,

As for the meter operation. Rotate the control counter-clockwise to the "20" which is at the 10 O'clock position. This will read voltages up to 20volts DC.

Ok,.. the fuse box should have in it's wire bundle 2 wires..... blue with a red stripe coming in/out of the fuse box. These wires are connected to each side of the 2amp fuse. One side will come from the Light switch in the dash (12volt supply voltage).... the other side will go to the gauge cluster lamps.

If you are not getting 12v on either side of the fuse then you need to ensure that the wiring is intact from the headlight switch. The wire you found sniped.... could it be blue/red stripe instead of black/red stripe as you reported? See if you can find it's other end coming from the light switch.

As FUBAR as your wiring is,... you are almost at the point of just biting the bullet and re-wiring the truck with an after-market wiring harness.

[tyler67f100]

that sucks but it may have to be the best option. There seems to be a lot of unnecessary wires in the truck. They are connected to anything not even the fuse box. If I start the project of re wiring with an after market harness, my only concern is the ease of it. Will it come with instructions and what not? I am somewhat good with electrical work, just haven't tried anything of this proportion or rewiring an entire truck

[DisneysPatB]

that sucks but it may have to be the best option. There seems to be a lot of unnecessary wires in the truck. They are connected to anything not even the fuse box. If I start the project of re wiring with an after market harness, my only concern is the ease of it. Will it come with instructions and what not? I am somewhat good with electrical work, just haven't tried anything of this proportion or rewiring an entire truck

http://www.fordification.com/tech/schematics_h.htm

[jingo]

I may be in a similar position wrt wiring, I just haven’t had the nerve or the time to get into it yet! Plus I’m working outdoors, no garage, and it’s been damn cold since I got underway just before Christmas.

From what I’ve been able to tell most of my wire plant is stock harness, original connectors, same for the appliances...nothing special. There are certainly crappy taps and sloppy choices from the PO. I expect to get to all of it eventually.

That said, I’m missing a few appliances, like the windshield washer reservoir, tubing, and nozzles, and my instrument cluster is not online. Question is whether an after market wire harness is the best option?

I’m not doing off-frame resoration, so Id like to keep rework minimal and stock. Not that I’m cheap, but the harnesses seem pricey compared to the components -wires, connectors - and my time is free when it comes to dinking around with stuff. Wire harness replacement seems like overkill for what was a pretty much a standard farm truck.

I thought I’d put in wires, switches, and fuses for new or upgraded circuits (sound system, Bluetooth, searchlight, winch, etc) and use SS cross connect blocks to integrate with existing stuff (as required, hot, ground, ignition switch and so on). Pretty standard approach in the marine world, where I have some experience with 12V DC.

Any opinions on fixing or installing only what’s broke or new, leaving original in place, and cross connect blocks to keep everything tight and organized?

[Redcrew71]

I may be in a similar position wrt wiring, I just haven’t had the nerve or the time to get into it yet! Plus I’m working outdoors, no garage, and it’s been damn cold since I got underway just before Christmas.

From what I’ve been able to tell most of my wire plant is stock harness, original connectors, same for the appliances...nothing special. There are certainly crappy taps and sloppy choices from the PO. I expect to get to all of it eventually.

That said, I’m missing a few appliances, like the windshield washer reservoir, tubing, and nozzles, and my instrument cluster is not online. Question is whether an after market wire harness is the best option?

I’m not doing off-frame resoration, so Id like to keep rework minimal and stock. Not that I’m cheap, but the harnesses seem pricey compared to the components -wires, connectors - and my time is free when it comes to dinking around with stuff. Wire harness replacement seems like overkill for what was a pretty much a standard farm truck.

I thought I’d put in wires, switches, and fuses for new or upgraded circuits (sound system, Bluetooth, searchlight, winch, etc) and use SS cross connect blocks to integrate with existing stuff (as required, hot, ground, ignition switch and so on). Pretty standard approach in the marine world, where I have some experience with 12V DC.

Any opinions on fixing or installing only what’s broke or new, leaving original in place, and cross connect blocks to keep everything tight and organized?

I am in the same boat....trying to get my dash lights done and I dont have any windshield washer unit which I would like to hook up. no interior light as well. did you make any progress?

[cdnwillyg]

Just finishing wiring my 68 with Painless and it goes quit easy if you take your time. Now having said that I have yet to put power to it, later this week I hope.