Aftermarket radio wiring

[rocketBox]

I've been searching for the last few days to try and find a color chart for wiring in an aftermarket stereo. I've found a ton of info on using the volvo dash kit, but not much on how to actually wire it in. I basically need the constant power and switch power, ground, no power antennea, I can't remember what others... wondering what factory cassette wires correspond to what. Thanks!

[Nitekruizer]

If you have the instructions that came with the aftermarket unit, follow them. Not all brands wire in the same way, so it's kind of hard to just say this is how to do it. There are some general rules to follow though. First of all, do not ground any speaker wires. Make sure that the left speaker negative wire goes to the (-) terminal of the left speaker and that the right speaker negative wire goes to the (-) terminal of the right speaker. Don't mix them up. Make sure the front and rear speaker connections are correct too, right to right, left to left, positive to positive, etc. The output ICs in these radios are not very forgiving if you wire them up wrong. You won't likely get a second chance.

There probably is a constant power for the clock and station memory. It will need to connect to an unswitched power source. Try to use a fused source if you can find one, if not, you can run a #18 wire to the battery terminal of the starter relay. There will be a main power that can connect to the wire that supplied power to the factory radio. The power antenna lead from the aftermarket radio is usually used to switch the amplifier on and off, if you are using an amplifier. It connects to the terminal or wire at the amplifier marked as "ON Sensor" or "Switch", etc.

If you could possibly post a pic of your wiring diagram that came with the aftermarket radio, we could tell you exactly how to wire it in.

[sargentrs]

Here's the master diagram for a '72. http://www.fordification.com/tech/wiring_1972master.htm It's the most complete there is and is very high quality. Also includes a connector legend and color chart. Your colors may be different depending on your year/model. Page 3 contains the radio/speaker wiring. On the fuse block is a space for a fuse for the radio. Many times it is blank and doesn't even have fuse holders in it. In the photo below you can see the approximate location of the radio connector. I usually just wind up running new wiring and tapping into other circuits.

[rocketBox]

In looking a little more closely at the wiring... there's a cluster of 4 wires that come out of the back of the radio... these go into a connection that becomes 2 wires that run to the dash speaker. Other than that, there's a red power and a black ground wire... that's it. I think I just need the switched power and I should be all set. Is there a recommended wire off the ignition to splice into?

[sargentrs]

This is from the '70 Body Builder's layout found at the bottom of this tech page. http://www.fordification.com/tech/schematics_h.htm

Added Lights or Accessories Controlled by Added Switches:
For added electrical accessories that operate only when the ignition is on -- terminate the feed wire from the hang-on switch in a bullet connector and plug into the three-way accessory plug on the instrument panel harness (single black wire/green stripe). This circuit is limited by a 14-amp fuse. Fuse "blow" requires the addition of a relay, with the coil fed by a connection to the accessory terminal.

If the added accessory is desired to be operated with the key off, the switch feed can be connected to the cigar lighter (using a "Y" jumper) if the 15-amp fuse for that circuit is sufficient. If heavier loads than the cigar lighter circuit will carry are required, the switch feed should connect to the starter relay "battery" terminal.