1971 F250 360 No fire

[Nics71f250]

I replace the solenoid the alternator switched to an electric ignition and replaced the coil. When I turn the key I don't get anything. The brake light inside powers on the headlights are bright. I've also tried using one screwdriver to bypass the solenoid and it'll start turning over. What am I missing?

[cep62]

Welcome to the site.

What am I missing

A wiring diagram, if you search through the home page there should be one.

You need power from the ignition switch to the solenoid (small terminal closest to the battery terminal.) and a good ground for the solenoid .
Then power to the coil with the key on and also when cranking.

What type of ignition did you install?

[Nics71f250]

I installed a pertronix electronic ignition in place of points. I switched out the ignition switch behind the key. I tried the trick where you can start it using one screwdriver. When I try the two screwdriver trick to bypass everything it kicks up a big spark. I was having this issue before I replaced everything. I drove it all day yesterdayesterday and last night I went out to start it and nothing happened so I started replacing everything today

[sargentrs]

Never jump terminals with a screwdriver, it's just too unreliable of a connection. Go to your local parts store and pick up a cheap remote starter switch http://www.autozone.com/alarm-and-secur ... =PS:3:1:90 Worth it's weight in gold and comes in handy for many tune up and trouble shooting activities. Go straight to the starter with it to bypass any questionable electrical issues. For test starting, run a jumper wire from the + side of the coil directly to the + side of the battery. Hook up the remote switch directly to the starter. Try to start it. If it runs, the problem is not the ignition, it's in the wiring. To kill it, just unhook the jumper at the battery. I had a '74 Dodge Dart that I drove this way for months until I sorted out the electrical issues. I installed a toggle switch and push button switch under the dash board so I wouldn't have to keep popping the hood.

On another note, I installed a Pertronix on my '64 Fairlane. 9 months later it just quit working. Replaced it another Pertronix. 3 weeks later it quit too. Gave up and swapped in a Duraspark ignition system and have had no more problems. Break out the multimeter and start checking voltages from the battery back through to the dashboard. There an issue somewhere in the chain. Hook it up to the battery first. Then leave the ground lead connected on the battery and move to the terminal on battery end of the cable. Then to the solenoid end of the cable. Do this with key on, then key off. Record the voltage at every step. Then to the other side of the solenoid with key in start. Then to the starter with key in start. Then to the "I" side of the solenoid with key on. Then to "S" side of the solenoid with key in start. Then to + side of the coil with key on. And so on... I've gone through 2 new solenoids that were bad right out of the box.

I've also found, on my truck, that I had a bad crimp on the terminal on the wire from the alternator to the solenoid. Issue drove me nuts until I was checking the connections and the wire just fell out of the terminal. New terminal on the end and she fired right up. Sometimes it's the simplest thing that is the issue. I'm bad about chasing a big problem when it's a tiny one that caused it.

One more thing, are the screws holding your solenoid to the fender loose? If so, use bolts, nuts and star washers to insure you have a good ground to the sheet metal. As a quick check, you can run a jumper wire from the solenoid mounting bracket to a good ground.