1968 F100 2wd style side short bed.

[Craigerf100]

Its been a while since I’ve posted anything. Haven’t done much to the truck, still looks the same. I am building up a motor for the truck. It was rebuilt to stock specs by a friend a few years back but never used. Code says it’s an 88 roller 302 but I’m told he pulled it out of a 100k miles 86 pickup . The bottom is rebuilt well with all new parts. But the top end is reused parts. Which is fine cause i plan to go with an E303 cam, new roller lifters, 1.6 or 7 in roller rockers and I may go with GT40 heads or aftermarket equivalent. I think the piston rods are forged which would awesome cause ill like to add a small turbo . Though I need to get the dents out and a nice paint job first but a turbo is more fun .

[Craigerf100]

I'm liking these speedmaster 4340 1.7in roller lifters. I'm hearing good things. It's a budget build so I'm looking for functionality a long with some HP/torque fun.

[Craigerf100]

And a few other parts

M-6250-E303 cam




Oem roller lifters

[Craigerf100]

In a weeks time I'll be picking up a 95 roller 351w ready to drop in my truck. I'll post pics soon

[Craigerf100]

Here it is sitting at the sellers house. I plan to paint it black and dark silver with chrome parts. But I haven't decided.

[Monkey-1]

Looks good. What goodies does it have and what HP are you expecting?.

[Craigerf100]

Well actually very little. It's gone through 2 owners since its been pulled out of an bump side trick, of whom I know. So I'm 99% positive it's a good running engine. As for what's in it I was "told" it has a "beefy" cam. I am unsure of its stats till I pop the timing gear off and find out. It has a torker2 intake and I think it's been bored over. Everything else is stock. In a perfect world I'll be happy if it produced 300hp. I'm buying the engine for 400 so I'm willing to take the gamble. It helps I know and trust the fellas who's owned it before me.

[Ranchero50]

I don't know your 'friends' but I would run from the that engine, especially if they are saying it's rebuilt. I call BS. It has old used E4Z pistons, 84 Mustang. The bores are stone honed but you can still see the ring ridge at the top of the bore indicating they probably need bored. The cam has been run a long time. It takes a while to stain a roller cam. It has a front dipstick timing cover and a mid sump pan. Freeze plug looks like it's leaking on the driver's side, fuel pump threads look buggered. Overall it's just too filthy inside to trust throwing it back together.

Looks like some jackleg tore apart an old engine, slapped some lithium grease on everything and threw it back together with the cheapest gaskets available. The dirt and trash in the bores is disheartening. Just too much creepy stuff for me to just drop it in an engine bay without taking it apart and checking everything. HP on a '84 was around 185 if memory serves.

If it's an '88 block then it's a 50oz imbalance crank. Do you have the correct imbalance flywheel and balancer?

Just trying to keep you from having a bad experience.

[FOWLER]

Also just to add to what was pointed out, you have to use the correct dist. Gear for the roller(steel) cam as well. The flat tappet type cast iron gear will wear and self destruct in short order. You may already be aware of that but just pointing it out in case. I've seen it done more than you'd think .

[fordguy_78]

you know he's talking about two different motors the first one is a 302 the second one in his last post is a 351 just saying

[Ranchero50]

you know he's talking about two different motors the first one is a 302 the second one in his last post is a 351 just saying

That's funny, I just noticed the 1' of extra web above the dizzy hole on the last pic indicating a 351w and no I don't see where he mentioned it. Seems a continuation of the post where it's a 302 and all apart.

Good eyes.

[Craigerf100]

you know he's talking about two different motors the first one is a 302 the second one in his last post is a 351 just saying

That's funny, I just noticed the 1' of extra web above the dizzy hole on the last pic indicating a 351w and no I don't see where he mentioned it. Seems a continuation of the post where it's a 302 and all apart.

Good eyes.

but youre still right ranchero

[Ranchero50]

you know he's talking about two different motors the first one is a 302 the second one in his last post is a 351 just saying

That's funny, I just noticed the 1' of extra web above the dizzy hole on the last pic indicating a 351w and no I don't see where he mentioned it. Seems a continuation of the post where it's a 302 and all apart.

Good eyes.

but youre still right ranchero

So what's the rest of the story? Hopefully the 351 is in better shape vs. that poor 302.

[Craigerf100]

That's funny, I just noticed the 1' of extra web above the dizzy hole on the last pic indicating a 351w and no I don't see where he mentioned it. Seems a continuation of the post where it's a 302 and all apart.

Good eyes.

but youre still right ranchero

So what's the rest of the story? Hopefully the 351 is in better shape vs. that poor 302.

Still in limbo, buying it stalled out for now. It's just sitting in his shop at the moment. Yes I hope it's in better shape too.
I know ranchero you're the type that's... Well doesn't understand why I don't spend the money and "do it right" but the fact is this is a budget build and well if I can make a low mileage 302 work for what I need by refreshing it and popping a cam in it well I'll do my best . But yes this is why I'm looking at this 351w as the 302 wasn't in the exact condition I would of liked. But I still plan to finish it.

[Craigerf100]

On top is a 66-79 old twin I beam coil spring. On the bottom is a new 91 explorer coil spring. I was told the explorer springs fit our trucks and drop the front 2-3ich while giving a better ride so I heard. So I figured I'd find out.


The height is 16 3/4 on the old and 13 3/4 on the new. Width is 5 3/8 on the old while the new is 4 3/4. So less then an inch narrower. I wondered how well that would fit the top perch. It looked like the new spring will fit to the I beam well enough.






Everything fit well, A lot more snug. Rides well, little bumps are less noticeable.

There are some fitment "issues" worth noting.
1: though it tightened down just as well as on oem springs; The spring clamp at the top perch does not line up the spring coil. Other then that no issue. Fits snug in the spring perch lip.



2: the little spacer the spring sits on at the bottom where it bolts down. The explorer springs fits quit snug with no wiggle room. But settled down on it nicely once finished. NOTE: both the top clamp and bottom bolt will need tightning once your truck is on all 4s.



NOTE: there are 2 types of spring spacer seats. 66-72 and 73-79. Or more simply cast radios arms or the steal radius arms. In the pic bellow, the top one is for steel and the bottom is for cast. The lip indicates this. The steel fit the explorer springs tighter.


Went from a tire to fender gap of 5 1/4 stock spring height to a tire to fender gap of 3 3/4 explorer spring height. About a 2" drop. For those of us like me who already are riding With 2 coils cut from stock springs it was less then an inch drop. At $24 (normally $35) This is a good alternative to cutting your springs and waaaay less expensive then buying lowering springs. $35vs$200





Now I know you're all gonna say "why not just go drop beams" but not all of us can or want to buy those dream beams.

I also saw no indication to show this swop effecting camber in regards to needing realignment. But it's good practice. I personally do plan to check my steering alignment, even though it drove straight and true.