Electric choke

[ponyexpress]

I plan on running a 600 Holley with electric choke. I hate automotive wiring. Where do I wire the choke to?

[fijidad]

I plan on running a 600 Holley with electric choke. I hate automotive wiring. Where do I wire the choke to?

I just converted a manual choke Edelbrock 500cfm to an electric choke with a kit they put out. I ran a wire to a location near the ignition switch and then found a wire that was switched and did a solderless connection to it. If you don't like wiring, you might want to pay to have someone else do it; it's not terribly hard, but I know there are certain things I don't want to mess with and I pay to have those things done. Dan

[sargentrs]

You can just run a wire from the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid. Also look for a blue or orange wire laying on the driver's side of the intake, usually along the valve cover. It's for the carburetor throttle solenoid option on some trucks. You might/might not have it. I had it just laying there unconnected for years without knowing what it was for until I installed an electric choke on mine. Then discovered it was switched hot and tracked it down. You can see it here, the "J" connection. http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... arging.jpg

[Busboy]

Some advice is worth what you pay for it. Neither small starter relay terminal is a good place to make the connection. One of the small terminals comes from the ignition switch and is only energized when the key is in the crank position. The other one bypasses the ignition coil resistor and again is only energized when the key is in the crank position. The choke t-stat needs voltage whenever the key is on or when the engine is actually running. In the first place, verify what the voltage requirement is for the choke thermostat on your aftermarket carb. It isn't necessarily the same as the original carb. If I remember correctly the original choke thermostat on those year model trucks used a terminal on the alternator to power the choke t-stat. This was somewhere between 6 and 8 volts which is as designed. The reason for this was so that the choke t-stat didn't get power until the engine was running and the alternator was producing voltage. So you could sit with the key on like a moron if you wanted to. If the Edelbrock carb does in fact require a 12 volt source then you can in fact use a switched source such as the idle stop solenoid wire, IF IT WAS EQUIPPED WITH ONE!!! Only certain year trucks used that system. My 67 did not. If it's wasn't so equipped then you'll have to run a wire from the ignition switch or possibly tee into a switched source such as the wipers, heater etc. By all means consult Edelbrocks instructions and be sure to use a fuse to protect the wiring.

You're welcome.

[sargentrs]

I stand corrected! Thanks, Busboy.

[Nitekruizer]

I wired my choke (Holley Motorcraft carb) directly to the "STA" terminal of my alternator. Yes, as I understand it, this is where Ford wired the electric chokes back in the day on many engines. The voltage at the "STA" stator terminal is around half of the voltage at the "BAT" terminal, so the electric choke's heater should last longer than if it were connected to a full voltage source. As mentioned above, the Edelbrock choke could possibly require a full 12 volt source, so it's worth checking into.

Anyway, my choke opens up nicely after the engine has been running a few minutes, which makes me .

[BumpsidedBlessing]

I installed a relay to heat my choke right off of the battery. Relay is energized from a hot when in run terminal on the fuse box under the dash. Carb is a 600 Holley from Advance Auto Parts.