Hackster's F100 #2 CV Swap 6 speed manual and Coyote

[hackster]

18x10 ET42 all around.

[hackster]

Not a great couple of days yesterday and today. Wife is out of town so I have some chores and the pups to deal with.

Did manage to get the oil pan swapped out today for a new one and its the boss oil pan, the stamped one not the $1200 one. All sealed up and torqued.
Also ran the last of the brake lines through the frame rail and trimmed and reflared it. Got the motor back in and got it bolted down for good.

Spent a few minutes cleaning it and took a quick shot of it.




Ran a bunch of errands and started to work on the fuel system got the tank all cut up and drilled for the Phantom 340 fuel pump.

Got some paint on the fuel tank as well. Should be able to get it installed and build the straps for it tomorrow.

[sargentrs]

Great job on the lines. That engine looks badA..! Tank came out really clean looking

[michael9218]

Sean,

Did that oil pan allow use of stock CV motor mounts?

Mike

[hackster]

Great job on the lines. That engine looks badA..! Tank came out really clean looking

Thanks, It dried to more of a satin finish I was looking for, looks even better now

Sean,

Did that oil pan allow use of stock CV motor mounts?

Mike

Nope. Same outer dimensions but different baffling. The stock crown vic mounts really put the motor in the wrong location in the engine bay, not to mention the stock 5.0 will not clear in the stock location either. I moved the engine back a full 2",1.5 and staggered to the drivers side .75" to get everything to clear. Motor is too far forward in the stock spot.

Having another gloriously bad day in the garage today. The Aeromotive pump that I spent nearly $500.00 came with the crappiest hardware to mount it. Both the studs on the ring and the nuts did not really match either and neither were exactly 10-24 So one messed up stud, in and out of the tank a couple times, ran a tap through all of the nuts but finally got it together.

Other than that the pump is friggin awesome. Its almost like it was meant for this tank.

Incase you have never seen how they go together. This is the baffle and foam that goes on the inside of the tank, they give you a killer little fitting to drill the hole and get this into the tank, its nice machined aluminum and makes the process a lot easier.



The ring that fits in the tank and studs that come up through the top and a gasket is installed.



As you can see, I have already measured for the proper depth, cut the rod and tube to length, mounted the pump and hooked up the electrical connections to the pump. It is ready to just drop in place and get bolted down now.



So much cleaner than an external pump setup. No weld on sump, no bracket or hangers.



Backend is really coming together now.



Since the pump and stuff was done I could get to finally hanging the tank. I did this like the other truck, under the frame. This time I made a notch in the rear framerail for the lip to sit inas some extra insurance as well as get the tank away from the sway bar a bit.

Straps are just 1" mounted to crossmembers front and rear with the top nut welded on for easy access with the bed on.



I scuffed the straps up with some 320 grit and cleared them. It needed a little color back there. There is 1/4 x .75 wide foam tape on the underside of the strap to keep things quiet, in place and from scratching the tank.



I have a buddy that is cutting out the spacers for the upper frontend mounts this week. Wheels should be here later this week, tires will get ordered tomorrow. I have the regulator here but need to figure out where I am mounting it and also what I am running for fuel lines.

Need to order replacement engine harness, coyote control pack and other electrical stuff so I can get started on that as well.

Seems as though I have ran out of parts for the weekend....clean the shop and stay warm time.

Sean

[my79f]

If you had a fuel pump problem, how hard is it to get the pump out with the bed on?
What are you going to do for gauges?

[hackster]

If you had a fuel pump problem, how hard is it to get the pump out with the bed on?
What are you going to do for gauges?

Super easy....four bolts, tank drops out the bottom of the frame. Pull three lines and the tank is on the work bench.

No idea on the guages. Likely going to do the Dakota Digital setup that looks like analog guages. They are sweet. Thought about a race pack setup as well.

Sean

[hackster]

Well after getting home and dropping a 4' 2 bulb ballast from about a foot over my head directly on my face and eye while replacing a couple of bad lights in the shop....Oh, you dont realize as one light goes out and then another how dark it gets until you replace them....Oh damn its light again!!!!!

Been putting off this crappy job for a while now. In order to get the truck at the proper ride height and keep the alignment within reason I knew I needed to make some changes on the frontend. This meant that I had to tear into the frontend, basically pull off the steering rack, lower control arms and getting to the subframe with die grinder and a opening up the alignment holes for the camber adjustment by almost a half inch. It was not quite as bad as I imagined but I also only got one side done too....

Here is the stock location turned in mostly,



Here you can see the new SPC setup, it pulls in the lower control arm a long ways. The SPC catalog says that you can get an additional 1.5 degrees of camber adjustment with this kit and I believe it. I am guessing more like 2 degrees or more. I am hoping that this allows me to get a proper alignment and the ideal ride height.



Tires and wheels might show up tomorrow. Ordered tires from Tire Rack....never done that before but they were the only ones that carried the Direzza Zii star spec. Tire got amazing reviews. Ended up getting a 275/35/18. The tires run a little big, more like a 285 from everything I read and they should be awesome on the truck.

Sean

[hackster]

18x10 sounds huge and they look big until you get them on that big ass truck.





I love the wheels, super happy with them. Fit on the rear is spot on, still need to finish the frontend and check them but they should be just fine.

Tires on the other hand, they are awesome tires but They are just so small. Should handle really well, nice square setup. I think I should have found some 285/40's. I cannot imagine they are going to be on there for too long though, so Ill change them out when these die.

[SATURN5]

Liking the wheels...

Summit Racing's website says +/- 2.5 degrees with the bolt kit.

Bought the same prop vale you did, nicopp tube, fittings and clamps. Just waiting on the brown truck.

[hackster]

Liking the wheels...

Summit Racing's website says +/- 2.5 degrees with the bolt kit.

Bought the same prop vale you did, nicopp tube, fittings and clamps. Just waiting on the brown truck.

Nice!!

I believe that you are correct!! When I got things put back together and set it on the ground, it actually has a little bit of positive camber and its pretty low right now. Pretty sure with the bolt kit you could put it on bags and have it driveable pretty low...

I am super happy with the brake stuff, I hope you are too. The quality of the parts was excellent. I was happier with the Ultra Bend brake line that I was with the nicopp stuff. Either way, they are both amazing products.

Finished up the other side with the camber adjustments and got lots of aluminum shavings all over me :-whud But it went back together just fine, got the rack back together and set it on the ground again. With some new kicks all around to see how it looks.

Still not happy with my tire choice....but Ill have to live with it. Tires and wheels seem to clear everything, fitment is excellent I would venture to say so far. Probably need a little trimming once things end up in their final location but its about as good as I could have imagined.





Love this shot...











Sean

[hackster]

Still irritated by my tire decision so taking a little break while I get my head on straight about what to do. Wheels and tires make or break a car in my opinion.

Long Long day at work, lots of working this week actually.

Had an hour or so to kill tonight and had no interest in turning wrenches so I grabbed some sand paper and the buffer and messed around to see how much I could bring this almost 50 year old paint back some shine.....

Think I can work with it but its going to be a long long process.

An idea of what I started with on the other side.



Mid process. Using some 400 on the thick stuff and 800 on the others. Keep in mind, its really ***** paint so I am ok going through in a few spots.



Very first pass with the buffer, and I know its hard to see but there is a pretty damn good shine on this stuff.



I need to pickup stuff to build the fuel lines tomorrow really unsure of where I am going to mount the regulator though. Everything I read says close to the rail, not on the firewall though. Thinking on the framerail under the cab but it will be pretty close to the exhaust... I do not want it on the engine bay at all really.

Suggestions?

[SATURN5]

Coyote is a returnless system correct? You could put the regulator back at the tank and only run one hose forward.

[hackster]

I would love to do that but everything I have read says put the regulator as close to the engine as possible. It uses a manifold vacuum/boost reference.

At the back would be awesome and oh so simple to do.

Sean

[SATURN5]

IIRC the Coyote has a pressure transducer inline and the PCM controls the fuel pump to vary pressure. You're going to use the FRPP power pack I think I read. I'd look at the install instructions for it to see what they say to do.