Dana 44 Ball Joints

[Drake]

How easy is it to change ball joints on a 76 dana 44 disk brake axel? It's got the big hub and 8 studs. It's under my 69 f250 4x4 and I need to do a safety inspection on it, and i'm kinda thinkin it might be on the list of things to do. I've never had a hub off, and I'm not sure even what's behind there. What are the steps to getting to the ball joints? Haven't been much into 4x4'n. My new halfton has it but all you do is push the little button when it gets slippy. sorry for the ignorance and thanks for the help.

[Wes]

you will need to remove, Locking hubs, calipers and hangers, rotors, spindles, axles. Then the tie rod ends, and ball joints nuts this will let you remove the knuckle from the tube assembly. A tool like this make the ball joint removal and install easy. http://www.otctools.com/products/ball_joint_service_kit with this adapter http://www.otctools.com/products/4wd_ba ... ervice_kit. You can rent the 1st one at Autozone or the like.
The hubs are not hard, just take your time when disassembling, understand what your looking at.
the rest is all nuts and bolts

[harrysnyder]

It isn't hard. Alot of times the spindle will get frozen in the steering knuckle. What I've done before is remove the 5 (I think its 5 on ford, 6 on chevy) bolts that secure the spindle to the knuckle, and if it doesn't want to come off I've put the nut back onto the bolt and knocked them out just like you would do a lug stud. They just press into the knuckle from the back side. Once you have those out of the way you can lightly work the spindle off by tapping on it from side to side.
The ball joints themselves are not hard to replace. One thing to look out for is that screw in sleeve that they come with. The new one needs to be reinstalled and its a process to do because you torque it in stages. I can't remember that process. Buy the best ball joints you can find. I used the advance auto brand and blew them out in 3 months, but then again I was rockcrawling on 37's. (high pinion D44 under a Jeep). I went back with some genuine Spicer ball joints and they held up well to my abuse.

[Drake]

Thanks for your advice guys. Now all I have to do is find some time.

[PancakesandSausage]

Drake, it is very easy as long as you have the right tools, which can all be rented at the local parts store or purchased at Harbor Freight--with the exception of the spanner socket. Just be sure to get the 4X4 ball joint service kit because it has a couple of extra items that you will need. I did this on my '73 Chevrolet K20 with the same 8 lug Dana 44 recently. I would HIGHLY recommend you replace your axle ujoints and inner axle seals at the same time, because the work is a bit involved. Also, be sure to take extra and careful planning in buying all the parts necessary before you start or you'll be spending some unexpected downtime. If you do all this yourself, you will save a few hundred dollars in labor, and of course, you will earn the good feeling in knowing you did this yourself.

Only other thing I would suggest is getting quality parts. For ball joints I always use Moog. I got everything at Rockauto.com and saved myself about $150 in parts over the local parts store. Rockauto.com is awesome and has saved me hundreds. Shipping is very quick, too.

Anyway, here is a very detailed how-to that I posted in another forum I am a member of. Just scroll through the first few pages to get the entire how-to. If you have any other questions, I'll be happy to help...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/show ... p?t=430367

[taRedHood]

Mando . . .

I know this is an old thread, but I'm just about to tackle a Dana 44 High-Pinion swap on my '67body/'71 chassis Highboy and found this. Thanks much for the link to your awesome thread on the Chevy forum. Nicely done!

[Madman]

I have the same DANA 44 in my 70 F250. Get a harbor freight ball joint press tool, read the instrauctons, and watch a couple of youtube videos. It is not hard at all (and my DANA had been outside for the last 10 years and was gummed up as all hell!)