Which wire?
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Which wire?
I want to tap into my dash lights to illuminate some add-on gauges. What wire off the light switch operates the dimmer for the gauge cluster lights?
I'm working on a 1967 F250 with no electrical modifications to this point.
I'm working on a 1967 F250 with no electrical modifications to this point.
1967 F250 66k original miles when bought in 2012. Original 352 bored and stroked (Oct 13) to 396 cid, Upgrades include Cam Motion solid cam and lifters, C8AE-H heads now flow 220 intake/163-170 exhaust w/o pipes. Current project is a C6 swap in place of the original FMX. 4:10 Dana 60. Truck Custom ordered by original owner in Dark Moss Green over Wimbledon White.
- HIO Silver
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Re: Which wire?
C'mon now... Mr. Fordification has provided schematics on this page: http://www.fordification.com/tech/schematics_h.htm
Here's the schematic
: http://www.fordification.com/tech/wiring/wiring-1967interiorlights.jpg
Blue with a red stripe.
Nice lights, nice bumps.
Here's the schematic
: http://www.fordification.com/tech/wiring/wiring-1967interiorlights.jpg
Blue with a red stripe.
Nice lights, nice bumps.
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Re: Which wire?
That lit a fuse for sure..... My wife has banned me from Fordification!!
Seriously, blue with red stripe #19 it is. Also, it looks as if I tap it right out of the light switch that I am getting it before it's fused. Is that the case? If so I probably ought to add a 2A fuse in my line to the gauge light, correct?
Seriously, blue with red stripe #19 it is. Also, it looks as if I tap it right out of the light switch that I am getting it before it's fused. Is that the case? If so I probably ought to add a 2A fuse in my line to the gauge light, correct?
1967 F250 66k original miles when bought in 2012. Original 352 bored and stroked (Oct 13) to 396 cid, Upgrades include Cam Motion solid cam and lifters, C8AE-H heads now flow 220 intake/163-170 exhaust w/o pipes. Current project is a C6 swap in place of the original FMX. 4:10 Dana 60. Truck Custom ordered by original owner in Dark Moss Green over Wimbledon White.
- HIO Silver
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Re: Which wire?
).... Just a lil entertainment..!vwfreak wrote:That lit a fuse for sure..... My wife has banned me from Fordification!!
Seriously, blue with red stripe #19 it is. Also, it looks as if I tap it right out of the light switch that I am getting it before it's fused. Is that the case? If so I probably ought to add a 2A fuse in my line to the gauge light, correct?
Correct... it'll be a non-fused tap so yeah, add one.
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Re: Which wire?
Or, you could get it at the end of it's run after it's fused. Check around the cigar lighter. There should be a blue/red wire with a female bullet connector hanging around somewhere there. It might be attached to a light on top of the lighter housing. You can splice in here without adding a fuse. Don't throw too many lights on though, or you will blow the fuse. You can probably get away with using a 4 or 5 amp fuse instead of the 2 amp one. This isn't an issue if the new lights are LED's.
Common Sense is an Uncommon Virtue
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Re: Which wire?
I'll check it out mrolling53. Thanks. Am adding 4 AutoMeter gauges but didn't get the LED upgrade.
1967 F250 66k original miles when bought in 2012. Original 352 bored and stroked (Oct 13) to 396 cid, Upgrades include Cam Motion solid cam and lifters, C8AE-H heads now flow 220 intake/163-170 exhaust w/o pipes. Current project is a C6 swap in place of the original FMX. 4:10 Dana 60. Truck Custom ordered by original owner in Dark Moss Green over Wimbledon White.
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Re: Which wire?
One more caution. This wire is controlled by the rheostat in the headlight switch so that the dash lights can be dimmed. If you connect too many bulbs, you can overheat and burn out the rheostat dimmer control.mrollings53 wrote:Or, you could get it at the end of it's run after it's fused. Check around the cigar lighter. There should be a blue/red wire with a female bullet connector hanging around somewhere there. It might be attached to a light on top of the lighter housing. You can splice in here without adding a fuse. Don't throw too many lights on though, or you will blow the fuse. You can probably get away with using a 4 or 5 amp fuse instead of the 2 amp one. This isn't an issue if the new lights are LED's.
390 FE IN A "BUMP" / 383 WEDGE IN A 2 DOOR C-BODY / 351W IN A FULL-SIZE MERCURY / 194 CHEVY 6 IN A DUECE / 2.4 DOHC CHRYSLER IN A PLASTIC BUBBLE (Driver)
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Re: Which wire?
Nitekruizer wrote:One more caution. This wire is controlled by the rheostat in the headlight switch so that the dash lights can be dimmed. If you connect too many bulbs, you can overheat and burn out the rheostat dimmer control.mrollings53 wrote:Or, you could get it at the end of it's run after it's fused. Check around the cigar lighter. There should be a blue/red wire with a female bullet connector hanging around somewhere there. It might be attached to a light on top of the lighter housing. You can splice in here without adding a fuse. Don't throw too many lights on though, or you will blow the fuse. You can probably get away with using a 4 or 5 amp fuse instead of the 2 amp one. This isn't an issue if the new lights are LED's.
If you use anything more than a two amp fuse then yes. Otherwise the fuse will blow before too much of a load is put on the rheostat.
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Re: Which wire?
Okay, are you talking fuse the new instrument light run after the cigar lighter wire, or did you mean tap in at the light switch and fuse it there, OR did you mean no fuse after the cigar wire tap and use a 2A fuse in the fuse box for whatever circuit the instrument lights are on...? Sorry for being dolt.... Trying to understand so I don't screw up original, fully functioning parts!mrollings53 wrote:Nitekruizer wrote:One more caution. This wire is controlled by the rheostat in the headlight switch so that the dash lights can be dimmed. If you connect too many bulbs, you can overheat and burn out the rheostat dimmer control.mrollings53 wrote:Or, you could get it at the end of it's run after it's fused. Check around the cigar lighter. There should be a blue/red wire with a female bullet connector hanging around somewhere there. It might be attached to a light on top of the lighter housing. You can splice in here without adding a fuse. Don't throw too many lights on though, or you will blow the fuse. You can probably get away with using a 4 or 5 amp fuse instead of the 2 amp one. This isn't an issue if the new lights are LED's.
If you use anything more than a two amp fuse then yes. Otherwise the fuse will blow before too much of a load is put on the rheostat.
1967 F250 66k original miles when bought in 2012. Original 352 bored and stroked (Oct 13) to 396 cid, Upgrades include Cam Motion solid cam and lifters, C8AE-H heads now flow 220 intake/163-170 exhaust w/o pipes. Current project is a C6 swap in place of the original FMX. 4:10 Dana 60. Truck Custom ordered by original owner in Dark Moss Green over Wimbledon White.
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Re: Which wire?
Okay, are you talking fuse the new instrument light run after the cigar lighter wire, or did you mean tap in at the light switch and fuse it there, OR did you mean no fuse after the cigar wire tap and use a 2A fuse in the fuse box for whatever circuit the instrument lights are on...? Sorry for being dolt.... Trying to understand so I don't screw up original, fully functioning parts!
When I did mine, I scraped a little insulation off of the blue/red stripe wire where it plugs into the back of the cluster and tapped into the circuit there. I didn't actually cut the wire. Looking back, it would have been easier to just splice or, even better, plug into the wire at the cigarette lighter. I left the 2 Amp fuse in the fuse box alone. I just wanted to be able to dim the bulb in my tach , so I had no problems. You should be okay if you're just adding 3 or 4 small bulbs like #53's, #194's, ect. If you use the wire at the cigarette lighter, you can run an inline fuse as an added measure of protection after that point if you want to. I would leave the 2 Amp fuse in the fuse box.
390 FE IN A "BUMP" / 383 WEDGE IN A 2 DOOR C-BODY / 351W IN A FULL-SIZE MERCURY / 194 CHEVY 6 IN A DUECE / 2.4 DOHC CHRYSLER IN A PLASTIC BUBBLE (Driver)
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Re: Which wire?
The '67 is sort of an odd-ball year so ignore if this doesn't apply to you. I no longer have a '67 and cannot verify this.
There is a fuse marked "inst" on your fuse-box that powers the instrument lights. It's wired between the light switch and the lights. Just tap into that fuse and you are good to go.
HIO, if my bump had headlights like that I'd drive it a hellofa lot more@
There is a fuse marked "inst" on your fuse-box that powers the instrument lights. It's wired between the light switch and the lights. Just tap into that fuse and you are good to go.
HIO, if my bump had headlights like that I'd drive it a hellofa lot more@
1969 F250 Ranger Camper Special. 390, NP435, 3:73s.
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That government is best which governs least, because its people discipline themselves. -Thomas Jefferson
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Re: Which wire?
So what I did was to attempt to unplug the bullet connector at the cigar lighter today.... That joint has probably permanently fused itself after 46 years.... So I ultimately ended up scraping some of the black insulation off the lead after the blue/red stripe bullet connection and I soldered a wire in to jumper over to the tach and three gauge console. All works well.
TougholdFord, you are correct: there is a tiny litle fuse marked "Inst" with no amperage designation (I assume 2A) in the center of the fuse box.
TougholdFord, you are correct: there is a tiny litle fuse marked "Inst" with no amperage designation (I assume 2A) in the center of the fuse box.
1967 F250 66k original miles when bought in 2012. Original 352 bored and stroked (Oct 13) to 396 cid, Upgrades include Cam Motion solid cam and lifters, C8AE-H heads now flow 220 intake/163-170 exhaust w/o pipes. Current project is a C6 swap in place of the original FMX. 4:10 Dana 60. Truck Custom ordered by original owner in Dark Moss Green over Wimbledon White.