Dash Lights

[67Doors]

Thanks I will test using the jumper. It will be a while before I can get to the truck again but as soon as I do I will post the results.

[67Doors]

Finally got a chance to test the turn switch. When I connected my jumper wire and tested it before connecting it to the yellow/black wire. The voltage was all over the place so I tested the red/black wire and the voltage was jumping around. Thought this was odd since it test fine last week. Leaving the probe coccected to the red/black wire I wiggled the connector on the brake light switch and the voltage jumped up to where it should be. Turns out the connectors inside the plug was pushing back instead of sliding on the terminals which as causing the voltag issue. Put new connectors on and brake lights are working fine now. Time to figure out the dash lights.

[tbone6]

That's a great job of troubleshooting right there! Give yourself a pat on the back...

How about the flashers, are they working too?

Now for the dash lights...

Power for the dash illumination initially comes from the ignition switch via the black/yellow wire, through the light switch (Black w/orange stripe #25), out to the 2A fuse (blue wire w/red stripe #19), and then on to the lights (blue/red #19A). You already know the black/yellow is good from your other tests.

With the ignition switch in run and the headlight switch in park or on, you should have voltage at the 2A fuse in your fuse panel (blue/red stripe), depending on the light switch position. The voltage should vary, as you rotate the light switch knob, from 0v with the knob off, to 12v with the knob all the way on. If you have good voltage on both sides of the fuse, then you can suspect the connector to your gauge cluster or something in the cluster itself.

If no voltage at the fuse, you can verify the circuit by disconnecting the headlight switch (turn off all power first) and jumping the black/orange to the blue/red on the chassis side of the headlight connector. Turn the ignition switch on after you make the jumper connection. This should illuminate the cluster (this is probably a good quick check of the entire circuit, less the switch, if you want to do this first). If it does, your headlight switch is suspect. If not, on to the next step.

Make sure you have good grounds for the cluster. Pull the cluster but leave it connected. Check for power (make sure all the switches are on) at the blue/red wire at the connector. If good voltage, turn off all power and disconnect the cluster. Check for continuity between the blue/red wire on the cluster side and the center post of your cluster illumination bulb socket. Also check the ground side of the sockets.

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[67Doors]

Thanks for the help. I tested the the wires coming out of the switch and they tested fine. Tested the wire coming from the switch to the cluster and the voltage went up and down as turned the switch knob. Plugged the cluster in and everything is working fine. Not sure that I really did anything except unplug the headlight switch and plugging it back in.

I still think I have a bad turn signal because when I pressed the brake petal today and only the left worked, turned on the right side turn signal then the right side brake light stared working. Tested it again after a while and it did the same thing except the left wasn't working. Crazy but the only thing I did to get it to work was to turn on the blinker for the side that wasn't working.

[tbone6]

Your welcome, glad things are (sort of) working. It sure sounds like you have bad contacts in lots of places. When you unplug and replug you are basically cleaning a little spot on the metal to metal surface of the contact. It is a very common issue. Turn signal contacts get the gunk build up as well, just no easy way to clean them. Good luck!

[67Doors]

Just to put a little closure on this thread, it ended up being bad connections and a bad turn signal switch. The connectors for the turn signal switch, gauge cluster plus the turn signal switch were all bad.