205 swap

[ptodave390]

getting ready to swap in 205 (divorced) for 24 speedo different? driveshafts? linkage? hp 60 front gm 14 bolt rear Thanks

[averagef250]

The 205 yokes may or may not be different. They used different sizes for different engine/transmission/ GVW F-250's. IIRC the plates that bolt to the crossmember are a little different from 205 to 24 so try to get the ones for the 205.

Speedo places carry adapters to go from the push in style speedo the 205 has to the screw on style the 24 uses.

Or you can just pull the push in end off a speedo cable and push it on your old 24 cable.

[ptodave390]

so driveshaft lenghts stay the same? Also thinking about moving the 205 up out the weeds maybe 4-6 inches truck has 3 inch body lift so lots of room to go up,can you see any problems with this? Maybe rear driveshaft too steep? You seem to have a lot of knowledge on these trucks and I would greatly value your opionion before I get started.Thanks

[averagef250]

Driveline lengths should be the same.

You are limited with what you can do to a divorced t-case because of the center driveshaft. It's short and won't be happy if you don't have the angles perfect.

Take the energy you'd invest into moving the divorced case up and go to a mated one. All the problems go away.

[ptodave390]

the married combo is that much better? Had the same truck for 35 years no problems with dana 24,only orginal piece on whole truck. So in your 0pinion forget the divorced and go with married deal? 1972 f-250 4x4 390,435,hp 60,gm 14 bolt,rear mounted pto winch,4.88s with detroits front and rear kinda a beater gets driven on sundays. Thanks PTO

[averagef250]

The 390 and 435 are essentially factory, with those in place you have the perfect factory center driveshaft length and angles.

You say you want to raise the t-case 4" and I say that's a total waste of time for the endless problems it will create and you would be way ahead to go to a mated 205 if you're after ground clearance.

I'd say swap the 205 directly in place of the 24 in the factory position with the original 4 speed or don't waste your time trying to make it something different, it just doesn't work well at all with any sort of angle past what the factory had on the center driveline and raising the t-case even an inch would make those angles unusable.

[ptodave390]

Thanks for your advice,probably just swap in 205. Bought 1350 yokes for it.Do you think I really need to these? 205 has 1330s. The way it is now 2 1310s,2 1330s,and 2 1350s,just trying to make things simple. Have to buy a special yoke for 435, waste of money or good idea? The way it is now I do not have any problems. Thanks Dave.

[averagef250]

I ran a divorced 205 in my '70 for awhile and I did the same thing. I put 1350's with U-bolt yokes on all 3 t-case shafts. I had an NV4500 in at the time and used the short fixed 1350 yoke GM 2wd output on a Dodge transmission.

Before going to the 205 with 1350's I always felt like the 1330 center and rear joints would wear out sort of quickly. I replaced them yearly, which was actually quite a few miles at the time. I never had any issues with the 1350's, but I didn't put many miles on that setup either before getting rid of the spark plugs.

I'd say stick with the size of the 435 output yoke and you're fine. Not very cost effective to go to 1350's and it's not likely warranted if you've never had a problem.

[ptodave390]

the center shaft has 1310s,in the 35 years I have lost it twice. The truck went from all wheel to no wheel,always carry a spare shaft with me. Have you tried the teflon inner spindle bushing from longfield? Every since I put it in the hub (spicer) keeps trying to lock in by itself, about ready to put torrington bearing back in. Had the spicer hub gears re-boached to 35 spline and after about a year they stripped out,thinking about trying the yukon hardcore hubs,do you know of anyone who has these. Again thanks for your advice. PTO