Hello guys, I joined this forum based on the primary reason it was founded. Since I joined here I do not even go to the “other” site period.
I have a 71 F-250 Camper Special / Sport Custom and am her 3rd owner. She hasn’t even turned over the odometer one time yet. Unfortunately over the years someone has butchered the wiring, among other things, not as bad as some I have read about but bad enough. I have been going over the various posts before asking for help with my particular problem (I have all working marker/running lights, tail lights and brake lights, just no left front turn signal or right rear signal). My question is how do you separate the 4 wire plugs under the hood (one is virtually under the “home made” 2nd battery box) and the turn signal switch plug the 8 hole / 7 wire plug? Even though I have been working on my own vehicles for more than 40 years I always have problems taking apart the wiring harness connectors. Strange since I almost bleed Ford blue. I currently drive both my F-250 and a 1970 Ranchero GT (I am restoring another 70 GT and a 71 Ranchero Squire). In my whole life I have only owned 2 GM, 2 Dodges, 2 British cars and 2 Kawasaki motorcycles (which I still have). The obvious ones like the brake light switch are no problem, but my eyes are getting bad and sometimes I cannot even see the line where the connectors separate let alone figure out the “sealed connectors” that go really go inside the protective sleeve that keeps the elements out. Any help is appreciated.
Hopefully I have attached pictures of the particular connectors giving me problems at this time. Also if anyone is interested in buying my second battery box let me know. "I know what I have and these things go for hundreds of dollars when restored so don't try to low ball me", otherwise may use it for scrap. Sorry for posting the "for sale" item in this post but it helps portray the skills of the genius who owned my "Baby Blue" before me. (With a little chrome perhaps the box could be marketed for big $$$.)
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Often wondered that myself so i'd be interested to see who answers. Btw, I'll bid a bazillion dollars on that battery box!
Last edited by sargentrs on Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
The 4-pin is a pain. Rock/walk it back and forth as you pull it apart and it should come loose. My common practice is to apply dielectric grease so 1) It keeps water out of the contacts; and, perhaps more importantly, 2) provide some lubrication so it's not as difficult to pull apart next time.
70 F100 LB 2WD, 360FE, E-Street EFI, TKO-500, 76K original miles.. follow my rebuild: The Lo-Buck Bumpside
71 F250 LB, 2WD, 360FE, T18, PS, PB, D60 with 4.11s
73 F100 SB 4WD, 390FE, NP435, +4 on 35s
01 Ferrari 360 Spider F1
01 F150 SuperCrew Lariat 4WD
01 PT Cruiser Limited (DD)
68 Mustang
65 Mustang
stick a small screw driver in the side so you can lube it up and let it soak. Wipe it down and wiggle it apart. If you don't care about leaving teeth marks, use two pairs of channel locks and start wiggling.
Sometimes twisting the molded bullet connectors works, too. Especially the flat connectors.
The tip of using grease is excellent. Since these connectors are not 100% sealed, the grease helps with assembly & disassembly as well as with preventing corrosion. In some climates (rustbelt/humid) it is more of a requirement than just a good idea.
owner of several 67-72 as well as 73-79 Ford trucks
Wanted: Parts for my 1930 Dodge coupe project - the DD model was built in 1930 and 1931
Since I joined here I do not even go to the “other” site period. 
