no brake lights

[Ks Highboy]

It appears from the charts I may have a 68 harness. I notice that the 67 chart shows wires 282, 283 to remain 282, 283 after the plug in. But on the 68 they change to 5, 9 which are org/blue and green/org. Mine changes to the colors of the 68. The 67 wires show they don't change colors after the plug. However my big plug wire colors do not match the 68 plug completely. The wires feeding the switch coming from the big plug on mine are white/blue, green, green/white, blue/yellow, blue. The blue/yellow is the horn. It would be nice to maybe see a pic of a 67 and a 68.

[Dirty Offio]

Oh boy do I feel your pain!! The Beast ('68 4 door 4x4) had all of this and more. I completely rewired the lights back to front. Could not find a Turn Signal cam for love nor money, went with this unit from NAPA. (Cannot find it on NAPA site, here it is from MFGR.) http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/st ... &langId=-1 It is a little tricky to hook up, but I kept my diagram of how I did it. Can scan and send if you need. While I was at it, I fixed this mess:

wiremess resize.jpg

Looked like this afterwards:

newfuses resize.jpg

If I can help, let me know.

Offio

[basketcase0302]

DC might have answered this question for us as they have the switch listed as a "before serial number...:
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll ... Z50000024D

[abyars111]

That color code chart should help. It looks to me if you press the brake pedal and have power coming from the brake light switch on wire 810 (red/black tracer) and you don't have power on wires 282 (green) & 283 (yellow) you need a turn signal switch. You should not that wire 810 is in plug "S" and wires 282 & 283 are in plug "T" just like Basketcase described.

According to NumberDummy the turn signal switch was changed in 1969 begining with serial no. G30,001, that part number is DOTZ-13341-B, but shouldn't be for your truck since it is 1967 model.

If you can see any markings on the switch it will be an engineering no., give that to NumberDummy on the Ford Truck Enthusiat site and he can tell you exactly what you have.

[abyars111]

Sorry I was a bit late posting, you've figured out most of the problem while I was looking up info.

[Ks Highboy]

Just checked the switch. And wires 282 and 283 have not power when the pedal is pressed. I know the switch is bad. It appears that the DC switch would work since the break was in 69. Even if the wire colors don't match up I'm not sure it would matter as long as your wiring the switch back into the "S" plug and "T" plug. I guess just figuring out wich wire goes where in the plugs.

[abyars111]

I think you are correct.

[Ks Highboy]

Went to take the switch out tonight and decided to do some looking. With the test light I noticed I had power if I touched the green wire on the cancel cam when the pedal was pressed. If I touched the rivet and eyelet where the wire attaches to the cam itself I had nothing. Not sure why the power broke there and it seemed odd. Heres where the break in the power was.



I decided to get the cancle cam from NAPA and give it a go knowing the connection was bad on the old cam. Heres the NAPA cam.



I broke the little retainer clip off and cut the two wires on the cam and reinstalled the cam and retainer and break lights are working again. Heres the new cam installed.



I noticed while I was in there that my switch appears to be the factory switch as it still had the "FORD" tape on the harness. Hard to beleive that a plastic switch could last 45yrs. I'm betting the new don't last that long. Thanks to you guys for helping me on this and posting the color charts and schematics. It greatly helped me learn something.

[Dirty Offio]

Glad ya got her workin again! (Wish some store near me had had a cam when mine broke! )