Ammeter Wiring
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- J_Boo
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Ammeter Wiring
So my Ammeter isn't working, it isn't the dummy light but the actual gauge. It has two wires attached to it one is yellow and the other "slips my mind" I found no obvious breaks anywhere. What do you think i should do to make it work? Cut the wires and rewire them? Which if I do that, where does each wire go?
- Kurt Combs
- Blue Oval Guru
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Re: Ammeter Wiring
Are you sure it isn't working? They stay centered most of the time and show very little movement.
Kurt
1972 F-250
1972 F-250
- J_Boo
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Re: Ammeter Wiring
When I turn it off it's still in the center, when the battery was disconnected it was still in the center. LOL!
- Nitekruizer
- Blue Oval Fan
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Re: Ammeter Wiring
Assuming no one has removed them, rewired it, there should be two plastic in-line fuse holders under the hood close to your battery. Check both of those fuses.
390 FE IN A "BUMP" / 383 WEDGE IN A 2 DOOR C-BODY / 351W IN A FULL-SIZE MERCURY / 194 CHEVY 6 IN A DUECE / 2.4 DOHC CHRYSLER IN A PLASTIC BUBBLE (Driver)
- basketcase0302
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Re: Ammeter Wiring
What year truck is this? It always helps if you put your truck(s) in your signature. It looks like a 68/69 in your avatar? 

Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
- 69Ford
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Re: Ammeter Wiring
I spent a lot of time on Ammeter wiring just to find out the factory guage moves very little. Watch very closely when you turn the headlights and high beams on and off.
Research this sight and read all about it Thanks. This is on a 69F100
Research this sight and read all about it Thanks. This is on a 69F100
1969 Ford F100 Styleside standard cab 360 C6
- basketcase0302
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Re: Ammeter Wiring
Here's the amp gauge tutorial guys, I thought it might help? And like posted above most guys here have simply eliminated the amp gauge and went to a volt gauge:
http://www.fordification.com/tech/ammeter.htm
http://www.fordification.com/tech/ammeter.htm
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
- TNIceWolf
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Re: Ammeter Wiring
J_Boo wrote:When I turn it off it's still in the center, when the battery was disconnected it was still in the center. LOL!
The ammeter gauge only indicates a severe over or under charging state of the primary electrical system. It is probably the only gauge I know of that you DONT want to move under any circumstances for any real amount. The amounts of movement are small and almost undetectable in a healthy electrical system. But if the system is failing you will get a reading.....and getting a reading is never good with that type of gauge.
Find 'em....Buy 'em....Fix 'em.....Drive 'em....Love 'em
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Presently in the stable
1969 Ford F-350 DRW
1989 Chevy S-10 Tahoe ( It gets me to work and back and fetches parts and groceries)
1981 Buick Regal ( My deceased uncles last project/driver....renamed project Regal Eagle to be finished in his honor)
1990 Ford F-150 ( Miss Yvonnes Daily Driver )
My F-350 project http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=41744
HHC 4/67AR.... Bandits.....88-92
Presently in the stable
1969 Ford F-350 DRW
1989 Chevy S-10 Tahoe ( It gets me to work and back and fetches parts and groceries)
1981 Buick Regal ( My deceased uncles last project/driver....renamed project Regal Eagle to be finished in his honor)
1990 Ford F-150 ( Miss Yvonnes Daily Driver )
My F-350 project http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=41744
- J_Boo
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Re: Ammeter Wiring
It's a 67, 2 inline fuses? I will check those! You all say it isn't suppose to show any movement? Even with the battery unplugged? Is there a way to test that it's working?
- 69Ford
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Re: Ammeter Wiring
An ammeter gauge only reads if there is a charge or discharge in the system. If there is neither one the needle will stay in the middle. So without voltage from the batery the needle will
Still stay in the middle. Watch the guage very closely and turn on the lights with highbeam if there is any deflection of the guage towards discharge its working. Also after you shut the lights off there should be a slight deflection of the guage towards the charge side. Watch closely Hope this helps. Let me
know.
Still stay in the middle. Watch the guage very closely and turn on the lights with highbeam if there is any deflection of the guage towards discharge its working. Also after you shut the lights off there should be a slight deflection of the guage towards the charge side. Watch closely Hope this helps. Let me
know.
1969 Ford F100 Styleside standard cab 360 C6
- Nitekruizer
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Re: Ammeter Wiring
These guages don't move very much under normal coditions. Even with my engine not running, my guage only showed a very slight discharge with my headlights turned on. When I say slight, I mean the distance the needle moved was literally only about the thickness of a hair!J_Boo wrote:It's a 67, 2 inline fuses? I will check those! You all say it isn't suppose to show any movement? Even with the battery unplugged? Is there a way to test that it's working?

390 FE IN A "BUMP" / 383 WEDGE IN A 2 DOOR C-BODY / 351W IN A FULL-SIZE MERCURY / 194 CHEVY 6 IN A DUECE / 2.4 DOHC CHRYSLER IN A PLASTIC BUBBLE (Driver)
- J_Boo
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Re: Ammeter Wiring
Hell maybe it works, any way of checking?
- Nitekruizer
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Re: Ammeter Wiring
I have tested these ammmeter guages this way. You'll have to remove your instrument cluster from the dash. Unplug the cluster from the wiring harness. The AMP guage has one red wire and one yellow wire attached to it. Connect a test lead to each terminal and momentarily touch the other ends of the leads to a 1.5 volt battery. Use a "AA" or "AAA" type battery like you would find in a TV remote. DO NOT use the truck's battery! CAUTION: Even the little 1.5 volt "AAA" will "peg" the needle on the AMP guage so don't use any battery rated at more than 1.5 volts and don't leave it connected for more than a split second. If the needle moves the guage works.
Hope this helps.

390 FE IN A "BUMP" / 383 WEDGE IN A 2 DOOR C-BODY / 351W IN A FULL-SIZE MERCURY / 194 CHEVY 6 IN A DUECE / 2.4 DOHC CHRYSLER IN A PLASTIC BUBBLE (Driver)
- J_Boo
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Re: Ammeter Wiring
I didn't try that, but I tested each wire and both have power going to them. I started the truck no movement, I turned on heater no movement, turned on head lights no movement, turned them both on at the same time. I just think it doesn't work.Nitekruizer wrote:I have tested these ammmeter guages this way. You'll have to remove your instrument cluster from the dash. Unplug the cluster from the wiring harness. The AMP guage has one red wire and one yellow wire attached to it. Connect a test lead to each terminal and momentarily touch the other ends of the leads to a 1.5 volt battery. Use a "AA" or "AAA" type battery like you would find in a TV remote. DO NOT use the truck's battery! CAUTION: Even the little 1.5 volt "AAA" will "peg" the needle on the AMP guage so don't use any battery rated at more than 1.5 volts and don't leave it connected for more than a split second. If the needle moves the guage works.Hope this helps.