360, Starts but will not continue to run

[72Highboy]

Today put a new freeze plug in my truck. Went to start it up and battery dead jumped it with my F-250. Since it was cold here in CS CO I sprayed some starting fluid into the carb. She started right up but stoped as soon as I let the key go. The only way to keep it running is it keep the starter cranking the engine. Once I let it go it stops running. Any ideas what might be wrong with it.

[Manny]

Got a problem with your key hot ignition power source. Turn the key on and test for power to the coil betcha you got nothing. The reason it fires is the system has a bypass on the starter solenoid. The two small wires on the starter solenoid the one marked s if for the key signal that engages the solenoid when you turn the key to start. The other post is the i post. This gives the coil/ignition a full twelve volts while cranking. Then when you release the key it drops out letting the key hot ignition source with the resistor take over providing a steady 9.6volts while running. With the key on engine off you should have 9.6 volts at the coil if not start diggin in check fuses resistor all the goods. One way to check this is to take that i wire off and jumper it to the battery hot. As long as it is hooked if i am right by what your describing the engine will run. That can run it for a little warm it up check it out then you can find your other problem with the key hot...Hope that helps.

[chad30021]

I agree with Manny, if the truck is running with the key held on then it is more than likely the hot ignition wire not signaling the solenoid. I would start with checking the wires from the solenoid to the ignition switch and if it is not broken then I would start with replacing either the switch or the solenoid. Of course this is all presuming that your truck is actually running with the key held on and not just cranking. If it is not actually running then it could be a multitude of other problems.

[ForingaMex]

I agree with Manny, if the truck is running with the key held on then it is more than likely the hot ignition wire not signaling the solenoid. I would start with checking the wires from the solenoid to the ignition switch and if it is not broken then I would start with replacing either the switch or the solenoid. Of course this is all presuming that your truck is actually running with the key held on and not just cranking. If it is not actually running then it could be a multitude of other problems.

to this forum but I'm afraid I have to disagree with you on most of what you said. The selenoid has nothing to do with this problem of not staying running. If the engine starts at all than you can rule out the selenoid because it's function is to start the engine and not to keep it running. It could be the ignition switch, I agree with you there, but more than likely the problem is between the ignition switch and the coil. That is my

[70_F100]

I agree with Manny, if the truck is running with the key held on then it is more than likely the hot ignition wire not signaling the solenoid. I would start with checking the wires from the solenoid to the ignition switch and if it is not broken then I would start with replacing either the switch or the solenoid. Of course this is all presuming that your truck is actually running with the key held on and not just cranking. If it is not actually running then it could be a multitude of other problems.

to this forum but I'm afraid I have to disagree with you on most of what you said. The selenoid has nothing to do with this problem of not staying running. If the engine starts at all than you can rule out the selenoid because it's function is to start the engine and not to keep it running. It could be the ignition switch, I agree with you there, but more than likely the problem is between the ignition switch and the coil. That is my

[1970FordTK]

I have to disagree on that. I had my truck do the same thing and it turned out to be the solenoid. Its easy to check to see if the ignition is grounding out through the solenoid. Take the brown wire off the small wire termal closest to the fire wall and try to start the truck. If it starts, new solenoid is needed. If not you need to dig deeper, reason I know is that is what and how I finaly tracked down what was wrong when mine did that. As always just my worth.

[70-360fe]

Had the same thing with me 70 360fe. Finally figured out it was the igintion pigtail and replaced it all good. Checked it with an ohm meter and check good, the resistor wire connector was loose and would disconnect when I took my hand off the key. Not saying this is your problem, maybe?

[72Highboy]

I figured it out the battery was dead enough not to keep the truck running but not dead enough to read on a volt meter. That's why it would only keep running when it was being jumped. Bought a new battery and she ran like a john and smelled like a deere, or is it ran like a deere and smelled like a john. I know, I know it was a bad joke . Well thanks for the inputs I will definitely keep all those suggestions in mind. Sorry for the long time in between replies. Currently I am deployed and I am missing my Bump, F250, and the new edition 97 Jeep GCL. Thanks again everyone.