I'll be posting all my electrical troubles in this topic. So far, the charging, ignition, wipers, instrument cluster lights and heater control lights work. Driver front parking light work when I use the emergency flasher and left hand turn signal. Fuse block is new - http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =8&t=62478 - and all fuses work. All go to constant 12V, except heater and instrument lights.
Right now, trying to get the brake lights to light up first. On the diagram shown (click image to enlarge), I'm getting power on the #5 wire, but nothing on the #9 wire at connector T (circled in red) when pushing the brake pedal. The #9 wire should also get power, so the turn signal switch is bad. Am I correct? Can it be fixed or just buy a new TSS?
Yes, if you have power on the #5 wire (right brake light) and not on the #9 (left brake light) the problem is in the TSS. It depends on the issue in it, sometimes it is the cam that has the problem and you can just replace it, but a good quality new switch is always good with 40yr old stuff.
Shayne
I'm not "Brand Loyal" Ford-Chevy-Dodge-Toyota I have them all, one even cross mixed...
If it Looks good and Works good then it's ok by me. Everything has its issues from time to time...
I learned the hard way about l m c many years ago, so i don't buy anything electrical from them. These are all over evilboy as well as DC / NPD and I believe BOTP. Here's a seller I'd found that has a real good price, and it's made in America! http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-70-71-72-For ... es&vxp=mtr
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
I was very pleased with the quality , and now, six years later, it still works like new.
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???
That's not an oil leakThat's SWEATfrom all thatHORSEPOWER!!
Take a look at the TSS and cam. The leg extensions of the cam have broken off and on the TSS, a contact plate is missing... wonder how that became missing. Anything else missing?!
What are my options? If I have to go new, I'm going Shee-Mar, thanks... how much is the TSS and cam?
Good thing you showed pics,,, I have only seen a couple of these in members rigs here on the board, and that TSS has been replaced once before (long time ago) and it was replaced with one from a different manufacture that I have not seen any parts for... The replacement cams that you can get for the factory ones wont work on that switch you have there, and as crusty as it looks it's going to be best to get a whole new switch.
When I got a replacement, I cruised Ebay until I found a NOS Ford one, but that Shee-mar looks like it would be good and they have a warranty on it.
Here is a picture of what the factory ones look like inside, this is of my bad one on my short bed.
Shayne
I'm not "Brand Loyal" Ford-Chevy-Dodge-Toyota I have them all, one even cross mixed...
If it Looks good and Works good then it's ok by me. Everything has its issues from time to time...
hivewax wrote: What are my options? If I have to go new, I'm going Shee-Mar, thanks... how much is the TSS and cam?
It comes as an assembly. You don't have to buy the switch and cam separately.
Here's my invoice from '05:
Copy of Turn Signal Invoice 05-23-05.jpg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???
That's not an oil leakThat's SWEATfrom all thatHORSEPOWER!!
That's the piece on the back of your horn button/ring.
You'll only need that if your horn button isn't staying attached properly.
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???
That's not an oil leakThat's SWEATfrom all thatHORSEPOWER!!
hivewax on Mon Nov 14, 2011 7:11 pm
I bought the one that BasketCase posted from eBay. Shee-Mar wanted ~$65 + $6 shipping.
I had communication with this seller-he seemed very honest and has been "rebuilding" the switches for many years. Please let us know how well the switch is.
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
TSS install went well. It color matched all the wires better than stock! I was looking at the wiring diagrams and said to myself, "No way is it that easy."
Now, I have to get new tail light assemblies. The spring mechanism for the bulb sockets are messed up. It was hard to take the bulbs out of the sockets by hand... had to use a screwdriver to stretch the sockets out. And, it was impossible to put new ones in. I don't believe it can be fixed, or am I wrong?! The housing looks to be original with FoMoCo stamps. Tail light lens have cracks and the rubber housing gaskets are crusty.
The good news is I have brake light power all the way to the sockets! I'm looking to get a LED setup with '66 tail light lenses... I read here they are an exact fit. I will have to move or remove the backup lights. Give me your suggestions... like maybe someone here cut out the sockets and put new modern sockets in?!
Loren,
That's good to know about the TSS being an easy replacement. The sockets can in fact be "rebuilt" it just depends on how desperate, (or broke in my case) you are! I'd taken them apart before / used newer dent insulators and springs / wire brushed the housing(s) on some obsolete Bronco one's before. I'd really reccommend saving yourself some grief though, and find some used ones here maybe?: http://www.fordification.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=11
Surely someone here on the site has a decent pair of used ones?
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4