Click but not starting
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- cancow
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Click but not starting
2 weeks ago the truck started, but now when I turn the key I just hear on click. I cleaned the solenoid mount to and fender thinking that maybe it was a bad ground there but nothing changed. Also tried using jumper cables from another running vehicle but that did not do anything either. Any ideas?
- forrestbump
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Re: Click but not starting
Sounds like a dead or dieing battery.
I once tried to start my truck with a dieing battery and in my desperation to get the damned thing fired up I flooded it...BADLY and killed the battery. I bring this up because IMMEDIATELY I jumped my truck to another running vehicle and in my lack of patients I over heated the solenoid and starter motor and flooded it MORE...never could get it do anything other than click...
Long story short, try jumping your truck when all components are cool to the touch. If it starts under these conditions, it's your battery.
I once tried to start my truck with a dieing battery and in my desperation to get the damned thing fired up I flooded it...BADLY and killed the battery. I bring this up because IMMEDIATELY I jumped my truck to another running vehicle and in my lack of patients I over heated the solenoid and starter motor and flooded it MORE...never could get it do anything other than click...
Long story short, try jumping your truck when all components are cool to the touch. If it starts under these conditions, it's your battery.
1970, 2WD, F-250, C/S, Dual Tanks, 390 FE (of course), C6, Power Steering, Power Disc Brakes, Dana 60 3.73, Sky View Blue, Ranger XLT
1970, 2WD, F-250, C/S, A/C, Dual Tanks, 390 FE (again, of course), C6, Power Steering, Power Disc Brakes, Dana 60 3.73, Wimbledon White & Sky View Blue, Ranger (almost twin brothers!)
"One of the greatest discoveries a man makes, one of his great surprises, is to find he can do what he was afraid he couldn't do" - Henry Ford
Larry
1970, 2WD, F-250, C/S, A/C, Dual Tanks, 390 FE (again, of course), C6, Power Steering, Power Disc Brakes, Dana 60 3.73, Wimbledon White & Sky View Blue, Ranger (almost twin brothers!)
"One of the greatest discoveries a man makes, one of his great surprises, is to find he can do what he was afraid he couldn't do" - Henry Ford
Larry
- cancow
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Re: Click but not starting
I did try jumping it with it cold. I do think by battery is bad, but shouldn't jumping it still work, or can a battery be so shot that jumping will not even work?
- forrestbump
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Re: Click but not starting
If it still won't start when jumped, I would then turn my attention to all cables and their connections (grounds and leads must be snug and corrosion free).
Use Dielectric grease at all contact points to promote continuity. It's sold in tubes at most auto parts stores.
EDIT. I once drove 600 miles, at night, with a dead battery. The alternator kept the truck running and still gave off enough swat to run my head lights too, so YES you can jump start a vehicle with a completely dead battery and it'll run off the alternator only. Don't do it for long...you'll kill your alternator just as I did on my 600 mile drive from CA to OR.
Use Dielectric grease at all contact points to promote continuity. It's sold in tubes at most auto parts stores.
EDIT. I once drove 600 miles, at night, with a dead battery. The alternator kept the truck running and still gave off enough swat to run my head lights too, so YES you can jump start a vehicle with a completely dead battery and it'll run off the alternator only. Don't do it for long...you'll kill your alternator just as I did on my 600 mile drive from CA to OR.
Last edited by forrestbump on Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1970, 2WD, F-250, C/S, Dual Tanks, 390 FE (of course), C6, Power Steering, Power Disc Brakes, Dana 60 3.73, Sky View Blue, Ranger XLT
1970, 2WD, F-250, C/S, A/C, Dual Tanks, 390 FE (again, of course), C6, Power Steering, Power Disc Brakes, Dana 60 3.73, Wimbledon White & Sky View Blue, Ranger (almost twin brothers!)
"One of the greatest discoveries a man makes, one of his great surprises, is to find he can do what he was afraid he couldn't do" - Henry Ford
Larry
1970, 2WD, F-250, C/S, A/C, Dual Tanks, 390 FE (again, of course), C6, Power Steering, Power Disc Brakes, Dana 60 3.73, Wimbledon White & Sky View Blue, Ranger (almost twin brothers!)
"One of the greatest discoveries a man makes, one of his great surprises, is to find he can do what he was afraid he couldn't do" - Henry Ford
Larry
- Aussie_1970
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Re: Click but not starting
I'd suspect the solenoid could be on the way out. When mine started to click, I replaced the old clapper starter with a more modern design that has its own solenoid (and bypassed the old solenoid). Fired over first go
Other thing to investigate could be voltage drop on the trigger wire..If you do have a drop, make sure the ign wire is in good shape (ie not frayed or missing insulation) and then wire in a 4pin relay between the ign switch and the starter
Other thing to investigate could be voltage drop on the trigger wire..If you do have a drop, make sure the ign wire is in good shape (ie not frayed or missing insulation) and then wire in a 4pin relay between the ign switch and the starter
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Re: Click but not starting
its probably a battery problem. or its not sending the power into the solenoid properly. clicking is usally a power loss problem.
- 390bump
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Re: Click but not starting
[quote="forrestbump"]If it still won't start when jumped, I would then turn my attention to all cables and their connections (grounds and leads must be snug and corrosion free).
Use Dielectric grease at all contact points to promote continuity. It's sold in tubes at most auto parts stores.
Actually, Dielectric grease DOES NOT conduct electricity. Make sure the contacts are clean and use a small wire brush or sandpaper to make the metal contacts bare. Afterwards you can put some non conductive grease (like petroleum jelly) over the battery contacts to prevent that crud from forming there...
Use Dielectric grease at all contact points to promote continuity. It's sold in tubes at most auto parts stores.
Actually, Dielectric grease DOES NOT conduct electricity. Make sure the contacts are clean and use a small wire brush or sandpaper to make the metal contacts bare. Afterwards you can put some non conductive grease (like petroleum jelly) over the battery contacts to prevent that crud from forming there...
- 390bump
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Re: Click but not starting
fordman wrote:its probably a battery problem. or its not sending the power into the solenoid properly. clicking is usally a power loss problem.

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Re: Click but not starting
thats true. i have a set of jumper cables that are rusted where they hook to the jumper cable end. and they wont make contact . so the cable is no good until i fix it.
- cancow
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Re: Click but not starting
Could it be the solenoid? I charged the batter for 2 days and the same issue. A couple weeks ago the same batter turned the truck over just fine.
- Thunderfoot
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Re: Click but not starting
Yes, they do go bad... I have also gotten brand new ones that were bad as wellcancow wrote:Could it be the solenoid? I charged the batter for 2 days and the same issue. A couple weeks ago the same batter turned the truck over just fine.


Shayne
I'm not "Brand Loyal" Ford-Chevy-Dodge-Toyota I have them all, one even cross mixed...
If it Looks good and Works good then it's ok by me. Everything has its issues from time to time...
69 SWB (project) & 69 Highboy (driver/project)
http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/aa29 ... d%20truck/
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10399
I'm not "Brand Loyal" Ford-Chevy-Dodge-Toyota I have them all, one even cross mixed...
If it Looks good and Works good then it's ok by me. Everything has its issues from time to time...
69 SWB (project) & 69 Highboy (driver/project)
http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/aa29 ... d%20truck/
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10399